Brake pulling

I own a '94 3000GT SL and lately when i brake my car starts heavily pulling to the right and sometimes to the left. I just had new brake kit put on my car and my tires rotated about 2 months ago. Does anyone know whats up with my car? Thanks

I own a '94 3000GT SL and lately when i brake my car starts heavily pulling to the right and sometimes to the left. I just had new brake kit put on my car and my tires rotated about 2 months ago. Does anyone know whats up with my car? Thanks

what kind of brake kit? did it happen b4 you installed this brake kit?

when you apply the brakes, do you feel any kind of vibration? does the steering wheel shake at all?

i'm thinking one or more of the brake discs are warped.

I just replaced the brakes with factory parts and it never did this before. There's a slight vibration with the steering wheel and then like a split second later it just pulls to the right like im trying to turn in that direction, it's that bad.

can you be more specific plz

I had the hoses, rotors, and pads replaced.

ya, definitely check the front rotors to see if they are warped or not. you can do this by removing them and putting them on a brake lathe, or you could just take your rotors to a brake shop, Midas, or wherever and have them check. if warped, they can simply "turn" the brakes (grind down rotor surface to make it uniform again). shouldn't be too much money (30-50 bucks) to simply turn the rotors.

also, you might check your tie rods. if the car wants to pull in a direction, that usually is something defective or a joint with excessive play in the steering system. the tie rods can go out over time and have excessive play. also, the rubber boots can tear, leading to loss of lubrication.

[i just got some new tie rods from www.thepartsbin.com for i think $40 each (free shipping), and these new tie rods have a nipple to grease them for longer life.]

I had the hoses, rotors, and pads replaced.

ok when you open the lines, you need to bleed them, did you? Just cuz you bought new rotors, does not mean they are good. You may.... need a new
proportioning valve


use this to check your rotors
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/OBJECTS/34900/34892.JPG

Thanks for the help. I really appreciate it.

I had the dealership to replace the parts. But everything was fine up to now.

ahhhhhh, take it back. let them fix what they broke.

ok when you open the lines, you need to bleed them, did you? Just cuz you bought new rotors, does not mean they are good. You may.... need a new
proportioning valve

do you ever have anything useful to add? anyone who even TOUCHES their brakes knows about bleeding the system. and since the dealership did it, i know they bled the brakes. you MUST do it after replacing the lines b/c you lose fluid in the process. duh.

why are NEW OEM rotors NOT good? please explain to us this phenomena with your genius experience. a new proportioning valve? how does this at all relate to brake rotors? if you knew anything about the proportioning valve, you would know that it only regulates pressure in the fluid to the front and rear brakes. thus, it has NO regulation over fliud to the left or right sides, therefore, the proportioning valve would have no effect upon his car pulling to one side.

use this to check your rotors
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/OBJECTS/34900/34892.JPG

and do you even know what the objects (http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=16265&group_ID=1677&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog) in that picture do? i don't think you do. IF you do, please tell us. and so, in your infinite wisdom, your advice is for him to go buy that snap-on kit for $327 just to test his rotors? only thing useful in there is a micrometer meant for precise measurements. but the problem in question is whether or not his rotors are warped: simple, remove tire, spin rotor, check for flat, smooth motion OR wavy motion of rotor when turning. HOWEVER, this may be a bit difficult, so turning them on a brake lathe would be much easier.

ahhhhhh, take it back. let them fix what they broke.

ya, i figured that's what you would say. since you cannot (and never really do) contribute useful and helpful ideas, you would take your car somewhere else and bitch at someone to tell them to fix it. think about it: if you think someone messed up on your car, why would you want to take it back to them? since its the dealership, they'll probably say its not their fault and make you pay more money to get it fixed. but the point is that since they screwed up once before, why trust them again to do it right the second time?

i know you want to help, but when you make stupid posts by spitting out information that is just obvious, it doesn't help anyone; it only confuses people.

sorry about my rant. i don't mean to take my frustrations out on you. i just get fed up with people trying to give advice on areas that they don't know anything about.

linebckr49, YOU ARE A FUCKING GAY!! is it that time of month again? you need to back off you douche bag! I know what im saying you minge. just i cuz im in a hurry i wont explain all those things i said. I learn this stuff from ASE MASTERS and ill be back on sunday night to answer those questions you asked. PEACE BITCH.

Well I didnt read too much, everyone was bitching....

Sounds like its not the brakes. I would vote wheels bearing or something with the alignment.

linebckr49, YOU ARE A FUCKING GAY!! is it that time of month again? you need to back off you douche bag! I know what im saying you minge. just i cuz im in a hurry i wont explain all those things i said. I learn this stuff from ASE MASTERS and ill be back on sunday night to answer those questions you asked. PEACE BITCH.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v348/morphius289/owls/AIP_owl.jpg

linebckr49, YOU ARE A FUCKING GAY!! is it that time of month again? you need to back off you douche bag! I know what im saying you minge. just i cuz im in a hurry i wont explain all those things i said. I learn this stuff from ASE MASTERS and ill be back on sunday night to answer those questions you asked. PEACE BITCH.

ROFL :rofl: :lol: :smooch:

i'm confused, are you using 'gay' as an adjective or noun? i hope noun, otherwise you're just a 'tard. who cares if you know what YOU are saying. if others can't tell what you're saying, then what you have to say is worthless. its good to you, but no one else. you have to express yourself c-l-e-a-r-l-y.

i welcome your detailed 'ase masters' response. i hope its good. don't want to make you feel like you've wasted a bunch of money on that "ASE MASTERS" course. hey, do you know that i've never taken any kind of auto mechanics course! nope, not a one. all my education was free: reading books, websites, much research via literature, experts, and other people. but i'm sure you know everything since you're gonna be an ASE Master.

:iceslolan :naughty: :icon16:

heh...drama:comprage1:

anyways, yea, take it back to the dealer, let them deal with figuring it out

anyways, yea, take it back to the dealer, let them deal with figuring it out

ugh....are you serious Blink? did you just say that? :slap: you sound like someone else :icon16: and you deserve this (http://deeddee.ytmnd.com/).

cmon people. the reason you're here at AutomotiveForums.com is to find out how to diagnose and work on your cars yourself, so you don't have to take it to the dealership and get screwed out of money and have them screw-up your car at the same time.

seriously, i don't understand you guys who simply cop-out, and let someone else fix it. who ever heard of problem solving? not me :rolleyes:. sometimes i feel like trying to help people on here and offering useful and informative advice is like :banghead:.

Apparently this wasn't made clear earlier, or some people's reading comprehension skills need a bit of brushing up, DO NOT PERSONALLY ATTACK OTHERS! You are all welcome to disagree on automotive stuff. Question each other, challenge each other, disagree with each other...fine...great! That may lead to an answer; insulting somebody does not, and the next one to do it will recieve a vacation.

i said take it back to the dealer, because from the sound of it, theyre the ones that caused the problem, and at the very least, you may get them to fix it for free. Thats just what i would do personally, because i know very little about alignment and steering stuff, so it would take me a fairly good amount of time and effort, and possible money if i end up buying stuff that doesnt fix the problem.

Whether it turns out to be the rotors/pads, something they broke/forgot to tighten back up, or a previously existing problem that happened now coincidently, the dealer may at least give you a free diagnostic.

again, thats just what I would do. If i knew for sure what exactly the problem was, yea, i would fix it myself without hesitation. But, since it could be a few things, rather than having the rotors turned or spending money on something like that and figuring out that it didnt change the problem, i would try and at least get a free diagnostic.

Just so the valuable information is not lost here in the arguments... Post #14 by talskinyguy is probably the most valid diagnostic post so far (EDIT: just so I don't get hate mail, I just check the thread over and realised it also inculdes post number #7 by linebckr about the tierods)...

It's most likely a worn hub and ball joint but you are aren't sure, you and a buddy should jack each wheel up and see if you rotate the wheel back and forth with and without the brakes applied (do this while the car turned off)... This will verify that the brake pistons can freely move (and therefore it most likely not the brakes)...

If the brakes are slighty imbalanced" it would not cause the car to "heavily pull to the right or left" it would just cause the car not to track centre when braking (you should not need to fight the car).

Most likely what is happening is that when the brakes are applied the force pushing the wheels backwards is pushing the wheels out of alignment because something is worn... If this is "heavy" you probably can detect it with the car jacked up and wiggling the tire left and right... There should be absolutely no detectable play in the wheel... If there is you have a problem with either the steering tie rod or ball joint...

If you don't detect any wiggle you should bring the car in for alignment just to make sure.

I hope the explanations for differenence between "back and forth" and "left are right" are clear... You should have some play to rotate the tires but no play to turn the tires...

Oddly enough the day after I posted the thread my brakes worked fine but I still took it back to the dealership and they said nothing was wrong. Then I took my car to two more auto. shops and they both said nothing was wrong to my brakes and/or my alignment, and my brakes don't pull anymore so I just find that odd.

Thats good to hear. Idk if it was this in your case but if im on a slanted road or one with some wear from all the cars driving over it in the same spot, my brakes pull downhill which is usually to the right because thats the side of the road im on.

Well i'm a little late, but the first place to look when your car pulls one way or the other when braking is the CALIPERS/SLIDERS. I'm suprised no one mentioned that at all since that's the most likely reason. Sliders will rust and seize if they're not properly lubed, and calipers will seize up over time. When they do so, you get a pull when braking because of that particular calipers delayed reaction. In your case one or the other may have just gotten stuck, given the new area it had to cover, and then freed itself now.

by the "sliders" do you mean the holes the bolts go through when attaching the caliper? there appears to be a little rubber boot around the bolt. and it slides back and forth. i think our calipers are called "floating calipers" as a result.

by the "sliders" do you mean the holes the bolts go through when attaching the caliper? there appears to be a little rubber boot around the bolt. and it slides back and forth. i think our calipers are called "floating calipers" as a result.

yeah I think you're talking about the same thing I am...SL/Base's have floating calipers, but VR4's have fixed.

ahh. i didn't know the VR4 had fixed calipers. i guess i just assumed they were the same caliper style as the NA cars. interesting. thanks for the info.

91 to 93 VR-4s have fixed front, floating rear.

like twizted said check ur calipers. im on my 3rd passengers side one within the past year an a half. a good way to check it is to drive it down the road until it starts to pull bad. then pull over to check if one of ur rims are extremely hot.

stealthmodifier! its been a while. i see you frequent that other board. no love?

haha. yea im mostly on 3si. i glance over here every once in a while.