87 Lincoln Towncar Misfires after a few miles

I just wanted to ask if anyone else has had this problem.
My Lincoln runs fine at idle when i start it and when i first go down the road , but when it warms up anywhere from 3-5 miles it misfires and runs real rough. Feels like a jerking in between gears, studders and gets worse to an extreme shutter in the car.

I thought it might be the cats clogging up but i cleared those out, straight 2 inch pipes back. Changed the plugs with bosch plugs with the right gaps and the distribitor cap is new.

Think it might be the crank shaft position sensor????:confused: :confused: :confused:

Please help if you can

Thanks

I looked to be sure but should have a 5.0l ford engine like a crown vic. This engine has a module on the side of the distributor which frequently goes bad.
I used a module tester and warmed them up with a hot air gun or hair blow dryer. Advance auto provides free module testing. The pickup is in the distributor and you need a thexton puller to change. Napa or quality parts stores sell rebuilt distributors. These can cause problems with shutdowns.
I use a 12v test light and if the light blinks on the neg. coil terminal it is firing the coil like points used to. You need a 7/32 socket to pull the module. They sell a cheap tool at the parts store,and you could price a puller at the parts store. If you have a crankshaft position center maybe you have a 97 town car.
A very frequent problem on these cars is a bad wire by the module wiggle the harness and see if it changes the engine speed. Also the wire to the pickup in the dist.
I would get the module checked first as it is free. An ohm meter should go from 0 to 1 at the pickup with the engine spinning. I could find no 1987 engine for a lincoln with a crankshaft position sensor.

Thanks for the reply , i will have to go there this week and check it out.
I will post again to tell the results i get from the test and such.
The car was garage kept for a long time, cant believe it will be 20 years old next year, ran perfect till now.
Thanks again:smile:

If you pull the distributor get some white out and roll the engine until the rotor tip is over a mark on the dist. base mark it with white out so you can transfer the mark to the rebuilt dist. as they want a core. Be very careful and exact otherwise you will have to retime the engine their should be a round single wire plug by the dist you unplug to set the timing.

Thanks agin for the info, will make sure if i need to put it to mark it,
I had a 89 Old cutlass the had a crank shaft position sensor go bad once.
This is my first lincoln (ford) i have owned. I am going to check the wires and get the distribtor check sometime this week and get back with the results.
Will have to post a pic of the car also.

Thanks again for all the info you are a big help:wink:

There are a lot of things that can be wrong with your townie, if you goto this site, www.lincolnsonline.com we can help you further First thing, replace teh TV brushing, its a dealership only part, and you really need to do that otherwise a $1500 tranny rebuild is in order

Thanks for the web site banned, will make sure i look into more items after i get the dist. checked out

Thanks again

Ok i took the dist control module out and had it tested 6 times , they said it was fine. I bought a new one anyways . timing back on, still has same problems . Someone mentioned that lives around me that this car has 4 cat converters, two underthe car and two next to the headers. Said that is what it sounded like was the cat was clogged near the motor side. Can i remove these and clean them out without taking the catalyst out of them.? Or maybe tap them on the ground after i remove them to remove any dust that has clogged it up. What about a high pressure cleaning solution etc... Car is very loud and i dont want it louder....LOL Thanks in advance.


Any other suggestion would be great.

Ok i took the dist control module out and had it tested 6 times , they said it was fine. I bought a new one anyways . timing back on, still has same problems . Someone mentioned that lives around me that this car has 4 cat converters, two underthe car and two next to the headers. Said that is what it sounded like was the cat was clogged near the motor side. Can i remove these and clean them out without taking the catalyst out of them.? Or maybe tap them on the ground after i remove them to remove any dust that has clogged it up. Car is very load and i dont want it louder....LOL Thanks in advance.


Any other suggestion would be great.


well if you keep the car under 5000 a year take them off and leave them off haha. but usually with the older cars you can take them off and shove a pipe through them but not too hard and it will shove any gunk out.

well if you keep the car under 5000 a year take them off and leave them off haha. but usually with the older cars you can take them off and shove a pipe through them but not too hard and it will shove any gunk out.

I dont want to clear them out with a pipe will make it way too loud like a dragster. it already sounds like a mafia race car...hehhehe, second set already hollowed out , was wondering if degreaser or some sort of cleaner could be ran through them backwards, removed from the car of course. To clean them out some. Or would this just make them worse.

side and frontend pic , tell me what you think of the car. Trying to get it back to 100% original.......

http://photo-origin.tickle.com/image/152/9/4/O/152940269O249052832.jpg






http://photo-origin.tickle.com/image/152/9/4/O/152940224O898894110.jpg

You can disconnect the converters by unbolting the flange in front if it works good buy new ones. In my area you will flunk emission test without them.
If it has full power when it is cold your converter isn't plugged. You are running in open loop with a rich mixture when cold if this happens just after it warms up. I would spray along the intake manifold with carb cleaner as a large vacuum leak will effect idle.I mean run rough maybe stall. Also pinch off the hose to the vacuum booster.
Air leaks lean out the fuel mixture. Each symtom is different and I'm not sure exactly what is happening.
A bad pickup in the dist acts like the engine shuts off momentarily. I noticed a couple of things to clean in the link forwarded to you.

I dont want to clear them out with a pipe will make it way too loud like a dragster. it already sounds like a mafia race car...hehhehe, second set already hollowed out , was wondering if degreaser or some sort of cleaner could be ran through them backwards, removed from the car of course. To clean them out some. Or would this just make them worse.

i have an idea that MIGHT work but im not sure. there is a product out there called Seafoam that you drizzle down the throttle body while the car is running (follow the instructions carefully on the back of the bottle, you want the liquid form not the spray). It cleans out your exhaust chambers of all carbon build up and other junk. make sure that when you are SLOWLY drizzling down the throttle body (with the engine running reved slightly, to about 2000 rpms) that when the engine starts to choke, rev it up real good id say to around 3000-3500 rpms (approximately). you will know it is working when you see a mix of gray and blue smoke start to billow out the exhaust pipes. once you've used about half the bottle, pour the rest into the gas tank. now like I said, you can give it a try and see if it unplugs your CATs. its the most inexpensive way and the Seafoam costs less that $10.


i love that model town car from the 80s. my dad used to have one and i miss it. i love my 95 but still, they were AWESOME town cars back in the late 80s.

i have an idea that MIGHT work but im not sure. there is a product out there called Seafoam that you drizzle down the throttle body while the car is running (follow the instructions carefully on the back of the bottle, you want the liquid form not the spray). It cleans out your exhaust chambers of all carbon build up and other junk. make sure that when you are SLOWLY drizzling down the throttle body (with the engine running reved slightly, to about 2000 rpms) that when the engine starts to choke, rev it up real good id say to around 3000-3500 rpms (approximately). you will know it is working when you see a mix of gray and blue smoke start to billow out the exhaust pipes. once you've used about half the bottle, pour the rest into the gas tank. now like I said, you can give it a try and see if it unplugs your CATs. its the most inexpensive way and the Seafoam costs less that $10.


i love that model town car from the 80s. my dad used to have one and i miss it. i love my 95 but still, they were AWESOME town cars back in the late 80s.

Thanks for the input will look into it and see what i can find on Seafoam.

Be very careful using intake cleaners as it can damage your mass air flow sensor. I had a 1997 ford 5.4 pickup. There was a small tube between the air flow sensor and the motor in the duck. I used engine vacuum to pull it in the cleaner. But my engine wasn't stalling.
And had a small valve to control the flow. It really helped but I think your vehicle has an intake leak. If the carb cleaner makes the engine run smooth after spraying it along the edges try tightening the bolts if this doesn't work install a new gasket.
On your age vehicle this is a common problem.
Another problem I had with these engines was a leaking egr valve rough idle esp when coming to a stop sign. Normally you can clean them good and they will work properly for a couple of weeks. You can use your fingers and open it when the car is running and it will probably stall.

Be very careful using intake cleaners as it can damage your mass air flow sensor. I had a 1997 ford 5.4 pickup. There was a small tube between the air flow sensor and the motor in the duck. I used engine vacuum to pull it in the cleaner. But my engine wasn't stalling.
And had a small valve to control the flow. It really helped but I think your vehicle has an intake leak. If the carb cleaner makes the engine run smooth after spraying it along the edges try tightening the bolts if this doesn't work install a new gasket.
On your age vehicle this is a common problem.
Another problem I had with these engines was a leaking egr valve rough idle esp when coming to a stop sign. Normally you can clean them good and they will work properly for a couple of weeks. You can use your fingers and open it when the car is running and it will probably stall.

well with the MAF sensor what you do is you just take the air cleaner tube off the throttle body and pour it directly in (since the MAF sensor is located near the air cleaner box). what i DO know is those K&N Air Filters tend to mess up the MAF sensors since they are soaked in that oil or whatever it is.

remember, make sure when your pour the seafoam down the throttle body that you DRIZZLE IT VERY SLOWLY. once the engine starts to choke, you stop until the engine clears itself up (while reving like i stated before) and blows out all the carbon out the tailpipes.. then do it again until you use about 1/3-1/2 of the bottle.

also forgot to mention: make sure when your finished the process to take the car out for a couple miles so the rest of the junk can get blown out. if the car still runs rough, then i would also suggest checking your gaskets and your EGR valve/tube. let us know how you make you.

Just a short update was looking through the egr system and found a cracked pipe that comes from the intake manifold to the valve right before the egr. That component valve looks like some sort of one way valve with a rubber flap inside is completely rusted and when i tried to remove it broke off. The pipe and fitting on both sides were rotted all the way through. The spring inside this component is just rolling around inside. Can anyone give me the exact name for this piece?

I believe this is the main problem

Thanks

________________

Just a short update was looking through the egr system and found a cracked pipe that comes from the intake manifold to the valve right before the egr. That component valve looks like some sort of one way valve with a rubber flap inside is completely rusted and when i tried to remove it broke off. The pipe and fitting on both sides were rotted all the way through. The spring inside this component is just rolling around inside. Can anyone give me the exact name for this piece?

I believe this is the main problem

Thanks

________________


that would be the EGR tube...i think. someone is going to have to back me up on this one.

Go to page one of this link and find the lincolnsonline link. It shows a picture of an egr tube and a broken vacuum line. Tech link,then removing the egr valve. Good pictures and even shows tools needed. Another link shows how to clean the holes for the egr valve.
If you stop at a lincoln,mercury,or ford dealer get information from your emission sticker and mfg. date from a front door panel. Look at the micro fish and pick out exactly what you want. I found them to be very helpful. You will probably have to pay for it and pick it up in a couple of days.

Go to page one of this link and find the lincolnsonline link. It shows a picture of an egr tube and a broken vacuum line. Tech link,then removing the egr valve. Good pictures and even shows tools needed. Another link shows how to clean the holes for the egr valve.
If you stop at a lincoln,mercury,or ford dealer get information from your emission sticker and mfg. date from a front door panel. Look at the micro fish and pick out exactly what you want. I found them to be very helpful. You will probably have to pay for it and pick it up in a couple of days.


thanks will look into it..

Just wanted to post some pics of the part and where it is located.

http://photo-origin.tickle.com/image/155/0/4/O/155043442O779114324.jpg

http://photo-origin.tickle.com/image/155/0/4/O/155043514O550786164.jpg


http://photo-origin.tickle.com/image/155/0/4/O/155043575O926617597.jpg

I think your picture is of an air diverter. Write down the part number on the valve this connects to then ford can look it up. Ask them to show you a picture on the micro fish and you can point to the parts you need. Sometimes ford is cheaper for the same part as a lincoln dealer thinks you can handle the increased cost.
Take all items off before ordering as you might need an additional hose or clamps.
Print off your picture before you go and take it with you as sometimes they use a different name.

Ok got an update on the broken parts i found

The Valve is a ARI valve ford calls it and autozone has it list as a Air Pump Check Valve. Part # E9VZ9A487A at both places Ford Costs- $34.02 and AutoZone cost -$9.99

The Pipe is called Air Manifold Tube or Air Injection Reactor Pipe Part # E5AZ9B449A at both places Ford Costs- $73.30 AutoZone Costs- $30.00

What difference in price ....LOL

Thanks for all the help...will update everyone when i get the clogged Catalytic Converters fixed also....

Wanted to thank everyone for there time and info,
I installed the pipe and valve, no difference. removed the converters and still had the same problem. Just for the heck of it started messing with the plug wires, i pulled the second wire on the drivers side and the car was running the same. Got new wires and the car runs fine now. Put the converters back on and drove it to work.
Car is fixed had a defective plug wire.
Now all i have to do is put some mufflers on,
Any suggestions?
I was thinking of Flow Master or Glass Packs.
Let me know what you think.:p :) :rofl:

My Grandfather went to midas for new mufflers on his cadillac with dual exhaust with lifetime warranty. He went in every year for 7 years for free mufflers. They lost money on that job.
Doing my own work I always liked walker exhaust systems.

I have a poll going for mufflers to use check it out

http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=637315

:grinyes: :lol: :iceslolan :rofl: :p :licka: