Changing spark plugs - 96 T&C

Ok, I am pretty sure I can rotate the altnertator back to get to spark plug #1, however, anyone have any suggestions on how to get to plugs #2 & #3behind the engine? Not sure I can get to them from the bottom. If I can't do I have to remove the windshield wiper assembly? Any suggestions will be appreciated.

Thanks,
Greg

I've only done the rear plugs from below, with the front end up on ramps. It takes some creativity with swivels, extensions, and your hand/arm in some tight conditions. You will also need an 8-10" piece of hose that fits the plugs ceramic insulator to make installation of the plug into the head threads easy.
Others loosen/remove the alternator and get all 3 plugs from above with out removing anything else. I've never tried that method, so I can't comment. You probably have to remove the serpentine belt to deal with the alternator, which adds work time to the project.

Be careful removing the plug wires as you can break the core, which will cause missing. There is a plier type tool that removes plug boot/connections easily. If your changing wires too, I would change a plug, then it's wire, until I was done. Watch for binding/touching wires around the rear head, behind the alternator.
Always use copper anti-seize on all plug threads. It keeps them from galling/welding themselves to the head. Di-electric grease in all the boots keeps moisture out and aids future removal.

I use NKG platinums and like them best for replacement plugs on the 3.3/3.8. Others use Autolite or Champion Platinums. Make sure you get double platinum plugs. Copper plugs work too, just not as long. So...thats why I use platinums because this job isn't too much fun.
Plug gap is critical, be sure to set it to factory specs for your engine.

you're quite correct...

www.autozone.com

enter year make model engine,

click on repair info on the left

then click on vehicle repair guides

i'll cut-n-paste just to confirm:

2.

On V-6 models only, remove the windshield wiper/motor module assembly from the vehicle for access to the spark plugs on the firewall side.
3.

Carefully twist the spark plug wire boot to loosen it, then pull upward and remove the boot from the plug. Be sure to pull on the boot and not on the wire, otherwise the connector located inside the boot may become separated.
4.

Using compressed air, blow any water or debris from the spark plug well to assure that no harmful contaminants are allowed to enter the combustion chamber when the spark plug is removed. If compressed air is not available, use a rag or a brush to clean the area.

Home > Repair Info > Chrysler Caravan/Voyager/Town and Country 1996-1999 > HOW TO USE THIS INFORMATION > ROUTINE MAINTENANCE AND TUNE-UP
Spark Plugs
Chrysler Caravan/Voyager/Town and Country 1996-1999
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

See Figures 3, 4 and 5

A set of spark plugs usually requires replacement after about 20,000-30,000 miles (32,000-48,000 km), depending on your style of driving. In normal operation plug gap increases about 0.001 in. (0.025mm) for every 2500 miles (4000 km). As the gap increases, the plug's voltage requirement also increases. It requires a greater voltage to jump the wider gap and about two to three times as much voltage to fire the plug at high speeds than at idle. The improved air/fuel ratio control of modern fuel injection combined with the higher voltage output of modern ignition systems will often allow an engine to run significantly longer on a set of standard spark plugs, but keep in mind that efficiency will drop as the gap widens (along with fuel economy and power).

When you're removing spark plugs, work on one at a time. Don't start by removing the plug wires all at once, because, unless you number them, they may become mixed up. Take a minute before you begin and number the wires with tape.

1.

Disconnect the negative battery cable, and if the vehicle has been run recently, allow the engine to thoroughly cool.

When removing the spark plugs on the V-6 engine only on the firewall side, it may be necessary to remove the windshield wiper/motor module assembly from the vehicle. This will allow more room to work between the engine and the engine compartment firewall. Refer to Chassis Electrical for removal procedures.

Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 3: Hold the spark plug boot firmly, while giving it a slight 1/2 twist in each direction before pulling it off of the spark plug

2.

On V-6 models only, remove the windshield wiper/motor module assembly from the vehicle for access to the spark plugs on the firewall side.
3.

Carefully twist the spark plug wire boot to loosen it, then pull upward and remove the boot from the plug. Be sure to pull on the boot and not on the wire, otherwise the connector located inside the boot may become separated.
4.

Using compressed air, blow any water or debris from the spark plug well to assure that no harmful contaminants are allowed to enter the combustion chamber when the spark plug is removed. If compressed air is not available, use a rag or a brush to clean the area.

Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 4: Once all dirt is removed from around the spark plug, carefully loosen and remove the plug

Click image to see an enlarged view
Fig. 5: Pull the used spark plug out of the cylinder head once it is completely loosened

Remove the spark plugs when the engine is cold, if possible, to prevent damage to the threads. If removal of the plugs is difficult, apply a few drops of penetrating oil or silicone spray to the area around the base of the plug, and allow it a few minutes to work.

5.

Using a spark plug socket that is equipped with a rubber insert to properly hold the plug, turn the spark plug counterclockwise to loosen and remove the spark plug from the bore.



WARNING
Be sure not to use a flexible extension on the socket. Use of a flexible extension may allow a shear force to be applied to the plug. A shear force could break the plug off in the cylinder head, leading to costly and frustrating repairs.


look for this 1st to remove the front vent panel under the wipers to access the back of the engine...

Windshield Wiper Motor
Chrysler Caravan/Voyager/Town and Country 1996-1999
http://www.autozone.com/images/cds/jpg/small/0900823d801a447f.jpg

GL! now I know why they charge more for transverse FWD engines in these things! it's much easier on my dad's caravan-powered chrysler lebaron GTC...

96 GC 3.8 ltr. I removed the left rear plug by rotating the alternator. I removed the two remaining rear plugs from underneath. There is a wide channel the exhaust runs through. Reach through that channel. It's far from easy but, very doable. Used nothing but a 3/8 ratchet, plug socket and a 3 inch extention.

I wasted an hour removing and reinstalling the wiper tray. It didn't help me at all. I don't think the brand of plug matters as much as making sure you install platinum plugs. Platinum is why you don't have to change these but every 100K miles. BTW - when I replaced the original Champions at 116k miles, they looked like they could have gone another 116k miles. Have Autolites in it now only because my supplier was out of Champions at the time. Still going strong at 190K miles. MPG hasn't changed since drove it off the lot. That was 11 years ago next month.

GregB - First good luck. Second is there any chance you could delete your repeat post?

Everyone, thank you for the pointers and information. RIP, you asked me to remove my repeat post. I will be glad to, however, I am not sure how to. Can you tell me how?

Thanks again,
Greg

Here's the sequence to delete: edit/delete/delete message/delete this message. You'll see the buttons as you go. Not sure but at the end you may see a "are you sure" button. Cheers!