I am still alive! Just been away a while..

Been away for a while, computer crashed, changed jobs, ect ect. But lastweekend I finally found time to work on the car some more. Was having a real bad overheating problem. I gt that somewhat fixed with radiator modifications. Fixed enough to do some tuning anyway. The car had been so rich at idle and cruise that it would nearly gas foul the plugs in no time, after just a couple minutes of run time I could pull the plugs and they would be as black as they could get. I talked to Kevin at CSU twice (left messages and he called back pronto). Now when the car is at operating temp it idles at about 13.8afr, cruise is about 13.3afr, and I havent seen the LM1 at WOT but it pulls hard, the front of the car comes up so much under accel that I can barely see the road so I have to let out. There is a very slight surge while cruising and if I get on it a little then go back to part throttle fuel pops in the exhaust a little. Just needs some more tuning, but its going great. It torques up so hard and fast the first time I got on it in 2nd it broke my exhaust hangers. Hopefully I can be around a little more now. Useing my Bro's comp. Maybe I can have another update this weekend. Time for work now. Just wanted to let yall know I didntn fall off the face of the earth and the car is doing great.

awesome, sounds pretty darn fast.

Been away for a while, computer crashed, changed jobs, ect ect. But lastweekend I finally found time to work on the car some more. Was having a real bad overheating problem. I gt that somewhat fixed with radiator modifications. Fixed enough to do some tuning anyway. The car had been so rich at idle and cruise that it would nearly gas foul the plugs in no time, after just a couple minutes of run time I could pull the plugs and they would be as black as they could get. I talked to Kevin at CSU twice (left messages and he called back pronto). Now when the car is at operating temp it idles at about 13.8afr, cruise is about 13.3afr, and I havent seen the LM1 at WOT but it pulls hard, the front of the car comes up so much under accel that I can barely see the road so I have to let out. There is a very slight surge while cruising and if I get on it a little then go back to part throttle fuel pops in the exhaust a little. Just needs some more tuning, but its going great. It torques up so hard and fast the first time I got on it in 2nd it broke my exhaust hangers. Hopefully I can be around a little more now. Useing my Bro's comp. Maybe I can have another update this weekend. Time for work now. Just wanted to let yall know I didntn fall off the face of the earth and the car is doing great.
Cool, how about some video of the car?

Yep, vids :)

Would love to hear it, run hard of course:)

If it doesnt rain I'm going to the dyno a half hour away tomarrow. Right now the blower belt is slipping so I'm running so rich up top that it wont rev past 5000 rpms under load. But this damn thing scoots for only 6-7 psi I'm tellin ya! I'll let ya know if I can make to to the dyno, working on getting some video footage soon.

Cool, keep us updated with the numbers.

Just got back from the dyno. Heres the scoop.. I'm making 14lbs of boost but then it leaks down some. Its lifting the heads under boost and getting the cumbustion pressures into the waterjackets, therefore pushing water out the overflow of the radiator. Also it started to run lean up top, I talked to Kevin at CSU and we went from a 82 jet in the rear to a 88 jet in the rear. Just never got to make a full pull because it was trying to run hot pressureing the cooling system with boost. So, at 5700 rpms, boost leaking down to 11lbs, and the car running lean it put down 517rwhp and 485 rwtq. I talked to the guys at the dyno, Kevin at CSU and Joey Robinson from Robnson racing who did my machine work and assembled my short block, we all agree that it should be making closer to 600rwhp and much more torque once I fix the issues I have. Joey and I decided to go with Cometic gaskets and ARP studs to try to fix the problem. It will be a week or two before I get back to the dyno but I will let yall know how it goes then. I started this build looking for a 10 second pump gas street car. I think I've got that already, I may touch the high 9's once everything is sorted out. The car is loud but other than that it drives just like it was stock, its just got a little more ass now if I feel the need for it. So, overall a good day I think. I'll see about getting some video of the car later.

hmm... wow. thats really awesome. 600rwhp is certainly nothing to scoff at. you and mr luos need to race.

Your not using studs? Shame on you :)

How lean, is lean? Do you have an RMP graph.

As soon as you sort it out, you'll get very close to 600, if not more. Remeber Rome was not built in one day :D

AFR's hit in the mid 13's actually. But I didnt see anything wrong with the spark plugs, well atleast not yet. Been working 2nd shift and bow hunting in the morning so when I'm home I'm asleep. Just got home from work now actually and I'll be leaving in about 3 hrs to hunt. I'll take a day off from hunting later in the week and check all the plugs then. I really dont think I broke anything, the car runs and drives way to damn good to have any bad problems. After I saw afrs in the 13's I called Kevin and we went up 6 jet sizes in the back. It was 67/82, now its 67/88. I'll talk to Kevin again before I go back to the dyno but I make put 70s in the front to be safe.

I bought studs for it originally but my machinist misunderstood me and torque plate honed the bores with bolts, but I talked to him when I got back from the dyno and we are gonna put studs in it and see how it does. Theres a decent amount of meat between the bolt holes and the bores on sbf's so he says it shouldnt pull anything too far out of whack.

No RPM graph, but my hp graph is kinda funny. At the start of the pull my hp line basically makes a quick loop, converter flash maybe? The gasket between the carb & bonnet was pushed out and leaking boost there as well, I figured that may have een giving the carb a weird signal and might contribute to the lean condition as well.

Soon I'll have either cometic hg's or felpro mls hg's & studs on the motor with a new gasket between the carb & bonnet. I may drill/tap the 1/4-20 carb stud out to 5/16-18 or something before going back to the dyno as well. I think the 1/4-20 all-thread I'm useing for a carb stud may be stretching under boost and causeing the gasket to be pushed out and leaking boost there as well. I know at about 6k rpms the car was only running 116mph on the dyno so I may have to go to a 28" tire to get down the 1320. Running 275/50/15 MT ET Street radials now. I just hope I dont have to pull the motor and tear it down to have a receiver groove cut in the block for lockwire gaskets to solve this problem in the long run.
I might switch to a Dart block this winter though. Dart 357w, 4340 goods inside, JE slugs, TW heads, Vic JR intake, TFS 2 or custom hydro roller, sounds expensive but I might do it. Just dont influence me Tony, I cant afford it lol.

Naw, you should be ok with your set-up. If not I am screwed :D

116mph, and that was in 1:1 gear? What gears are you running again? And trans?

275/50/15 MT DR's, 3.55's, C4.

What conveter?

Edge 3200 stall turbo converter. Used but like new still. Makes too much power to be blowing thrue the converter doesnt it? Think the converter is slipping that bad? I would have thought It would make alot less power if that where the case.

Maybe, but it does sound like its slipping a bit. With a 116, have you ran your combo on a calculator to see what your trap speed should be?

The mustangworks analyzer says 130mph @ 6k rpms with 3.55's and 26" tire.

Maybe the Dyno is off :D

Hey 351stang whats up. I too have been away for a while, its good to see the regulars still here. I've got a new project on the way.

93 Notch!

I'll be sure to post some before and after pics.

Hey eillob. Good to see you back around as well. What plans do you have in store for the new coupe? I think I'm fixing to make some major changes on my car. I've got my eyes on a PT74 GTS and almost have my mind made up on it.

I was gonna start a new tread about this when I got the turbo. But I've let it slip so I'll go ahead and lay out my plans. As stated I'm thinking about buying a PT74 GTS turbo. For a decent hunk of money though. But I've talked to Brian at B&G Custom and for a little less than $4500 he will build me a turbo kit. The kt of course will be made for a 351w in a fox, ceramic coated, Tial WG and BOV, the above listed turbo, A/A intercooler, and all the hot side and cold side plumbing needed. Also he is going to run my WG vent into my down pipe to keep it that much quieter. I've heard that with the WG venting to the exhaust will cost me some power, but I'll more than likely have full exhaust on the car with LX tips when I go turbo.
Now, I have more than 1 good reason for spending the money and making the swap, expecially so soon.
1) The blower is mounted on 302 brackets and my hood wont shut because the blower sits too high.
2) I have extremely loud exhaust on the car right now and I can still hear the blower over the exhaust. Its not that I dont like the blower, I love the power its making, but all the noise gets old pretty quick.
3) The way the car sits now its so loud that I cant even drive it to work. I work 2nd shift and the cops around here would probably impound the car for being so lud at 2am on my way home.
4) I personally feel like the turbo is more versitial. Ya I can swap pullies on the blower, but that damn belt gets agervating. Where with the turbo all I have to do is run a boost controller or change the spring in the WG.
5) All that ceramic coated plumbing is gonna look sexy under my hood.
6) Well, I just like turbos more damnit! The blower was just cheaper in the beginning. Its all personal prefferance, I just think I'll like the turbo more.

I know you'll like the idea Tony. Any other opinions or advice on the swap from anyone?

sounds good to me. arent bypass valves more efficient that BOV's though.... most people get the BOV instead because they like the sound. im guessing thats an expensive turbo since the kit will cost $4500. ceramic coat is nice to have too. you getting a turbo timer? me and my bro did a turbo job on his car. they are pretty fun once you get em done.

Ask yourself, is it really worth it, and if you really need it, if the answer is yes, then go for it.

Also, purchase some Borla/Magna Flow mufflers, any of the straight through designed muffelrs will work, but I love Borlas. Quite that beast down a bit, although the turbo will do it a little as well.

That is a hefty price, but with what you are getting it will be money well spent in the long run.

sounds good to me. arent bypass valves more efficient that BOV's though.... most people get the BOV instead because they like the sound. im guessing thats an expensive turbo since the kit will cost $4500. ceramic coat is nice to have too. you getting a turbo timer? me and my bro did a turbo job on his car. they are pretty fun once you get em done.

Bypass valve for a turbo?

My GTR has the blow off valves plumbed back into the air intake side, just before the MAFs.

My GTR has the blow off valves plumbed back into the air intake side, just before the MAFs.

ehh, well thats what i meant.

Tial WG and BOV, Also he is going to run my WG vent into my down pipe to keep it that much quieter. I've heard that with the WG venting to the exhaust will cost me some power, but I'll more than likely have full exhaust on the car with LX tips when I go turbo.


What size? Your W/G should be at least a 45 to control your turbo, BOV size does not really matter as much. A 38 should do.

I would always plumb my w/g into the down tube. What size down pipe, I hope at least a 3 1/2 if not 4. There is a lot of power that is robbed with a 3" down pipe, because of back pressure.

351stang I've got a better idea. Lets go down to NASA and steel us a pair of those booster rockets. Them guys at the track will never know what hit'em. j/k
Sounds like a hell of a project man. Make sure you keep us updated with some pics. I think Im gonna just invest in a good blower set up.

eillob, if you go with one of the smaller Vortechs I'd suggest the SQ-trim. I wish I had. But I'd probably still go to a turbo.

The WG is a 38 abd the DP is 3.5" Tony.

I do not think it will be able to control it. When I got my PTK kit, it had a 35 in it, which is way too small. I sold it, and bought a Turbosmart 45, in the end I only paid like $25 more, but I had to look for months for a good deal.

I can get the Tial 44 WG for an aditional $170 Which includes the bigger flange welded in. I probably will do that just to play it safe. Now I have a couple questions about the wg and bov pressures. On the WG I know that the bar I go with will depend on how much boost I want. With the S-trm I feel pretty confident that I will make about 600rwhp with 14psi once I get the better gaskets, studs, and more fuel in it. Tial says 1 bar = 14.5psi. I'd like to keep the rwhp between 600-650. How much boost would you suggest I shoot for? I'll probably keep the revs down around 6000-6200, but I dont want to break my crank or block so I'd lke to keep it plenty safe. Also on the bov, the kit comes with the Tial 50mm bov. I have to choose between 7, 9, or 11psi. This may be a dumb question but what happens at 11psi with the bov if I have the wg set at 14.5psi? Will the bov bleed boost down to 11psi or what? Ya ya I know I'm a turbo newb but atleast I have good taste right? lol.

50mm BOV, that's pretty darn good.

As for when the BOV opens, you do have an adjustment for it, like on a waste gate. With what you want, I would go with 7psi spring. It acts just like a pressure regulator, so you can dial in when you want it to open, at least the ones I am use to. You might even want to by the other springs, to make sure you can dial it in. Meaning if the 7 does not work, you can up it to the 9 and so on. Its nice to have options:)

Hey David,

I have been told that a 38 w/g can control your turbo, but I like to not limit myself, that is why I went with a 45. It was mentioned that the 38 can keep a 383 down to 5psi. So, go with the 38, and if you run into boost creep issues, weld up a 44 or 45.

I'm spending alot of money anyway. Might as well go ahead and get the 44 for an extra $170 just to be safe.
Also I'll be pulling to motor for the head gasket job. After about 12 miles of driving my oil pressure dropped to 25psi at idle, jumps back up to 60 under throttle. I think the pickup tube is leaking at the pump, had some issues there during assembly. Hopefully I will know in the next couple days. Wish me luck.

Aren't cars fun:D

Motor is almost out. 3 header bolts, and then the driveshaft, tranny mount, and motor mounts are all I lack.