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Shocks


chuy22
09-21-2006, 12:13 AM
What are the best shocks that I could possibly buy for my van. I do use it to tow, nothing more than 3500 pounds. I was looking at the monroe sensa trac for front and back. Also how hard is it to replace them my self or should I have the mechanic install them for me.

CD Smalley
09-21-2006, 06:26 AM
Probably Bilstiens. I like the KYBs that I put on my 95.

drew300
09-22-2006, 08:43 AM
No arguments with Bilstein or KYBs.
I put the Monroe Sensi-Trak on my '97, and it rides / handles better than my friends (then new) Astro.
And the price is good.

Blue Bowtie
09-22-2006, 09:15 AM
This is just my opinion, but if you're looking for better handling, perhaps a 6' H x 6' W x 16' L box is not the best starting point. The most important function on a tight handling car is usually rebound rate control, whereas on a cargo box such as an Astro/Safari, I would argue that compression damping is more important to prevent excessive roll and dive. The moment center on a vehicle such as this is a LOT higher in the triangle than any car, and weight transfer is going to be a lot more prominent. Couple that with the fact that the static load on each wheel of an Astro/Safari is significantly higher than almost any car. This is a legitimate 5,000 pound vehicle (dry weight of 4,600 pounds) on a relatively short wheelbase and track for that mass, not a 3,200 pound coupe.

You cannot simply use a cookie cutter to apply what you understand about cars to a van. The dynamics are a lot different. All those brands mentioned are fine products, but make sure you select the right one for the application.

drew300
09-22-2006, 09:36 AM
You know, just as I pushed the "post reply" I thought that maybe I should qualify that "handling"......
I agree, it is a truck, not a Corvette, but the better shocks did improve the vans' ride, even the little ripples on the highway, pot-hole control, braking and cornering, even when towing, (not recommended for the 'vette), or when empty, when compared to my friends then new Astro.
But yes, it's still a truck.
And back to the question, I changed them at home. The backs were easy, but I borrowed a torch to get the front ones out as the top nut was seized. Try penitrating oil, on all of them, a couple of days before you try to change them.

chuy22
09-22-2006, 01:09 PM
So you guys recommend I go with bilstein. I don't mind paying a little more, but want to put the best that i can. Thanks.

old_master
09-23-2006, 03:37 PM
Removing the fronts is easier than the rears, if you know the secret. Use a deep well socket and extension on the upper nut, rock it back and forth a couple of times and it will break right off, 10 seconds maximum.

drew300
09-25-2006, 08:46 AM
Old Master: Do you know how much trouble that would have saved me over the years? I'm going to remember that.

old_master
09-25-2006, 05:18 PM
Great little trick of the trade. Made $20 one time betting a "greenhorn" I could get the upper mount off in under 10 seconds, without a torch or air tools. The extension is just a "handle", the longer it is, the faster and easier the stud breaks off. Who cares if you break the shock, you're replacing it!

CD Smalley
09-25-2006, 10:07 PM
That trick works good on just about all RWD GM products. Have used it on the van, the 9C1 and my 86 Caprice.

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