Replacing Ignition Cylinder Lock

I have an 83 Chevy caprice and I lost my only set of keys for it... :banghead: I went to the local Chevy dealership to see if they could pull the key code and have a new set made for me, but they couldn’t find it. I bought a new ignition lock but have no idea how to remove the old one. Anyone ever do this? A little advice is greatly appreciated.

I do also have a lock plate remover, someone said i would need one

thanks in advance:icon16:

I'm too lazy to retype everything here, so I'm just going to do the copy-and-paste deal in response to the same question someone asked a couple months ago:

here (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=587544)


My aunt has a 1988 Caprice Classic Brougham. My aunt (not the brightest in the world) lost her only set of keys (actually thinks someone stole them). I don't remember how many times I told her to make copies. She claimed she couldn't afford them, but now she has to dish out 12 bucks for a new ignition. My question is, whats the best way to remove the old ignition without the original key, to put in a new one? I read somewhere that someone said to drill out the center, I'm not exactly sure what that would accomplish. Any information would be appreciated cause she's a sitting duck until she gets the new one put in. She has considered a locksmith, but I'm not sure what kind of costs she'd be into and she's not a rich woman. Please let me know what to do, thanks alot.


You have to replace the lock cylinder. You were right in thinking that drilling it out will do nothing - it will only make a mess and possibly put metal shavings down into the steering column.

The lock cylinder replacement ritual involves removing the steering wheel, then the antitheft plate, then the horn contact/hub and spring, and then the turn signal switch and cam assy making sure you understand how the cam interfaces with the lever - once the turn signal switch/cam is out, you will see a flush/countersunk Torx-headed screw on the upper right quadrant of the column. Remove this screw (it's either a T-15 or T-20 - I'm thinking it's a T-20), and the cylinder pulls right out. Simply push the new one in, making sure that it's in the same position as the old one (i.e. the 'Lock' position). Don't try to force it in if it doesn't easily drop in - this can cause more problems and larger headaches as now you're looking at further disassembling the column to replace the gear and possibly rack. Put the screw back in, then reassemble the top end of the column in reverse of removal.
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hey thanks, it was so early in the morning i didnt even think to search. sounds like alot of work:frown: funny thing is, i do think they where stolen, and sadly the old ones where too worn to copy... ill give it a try. thanks again

Your car will be a little easier if there is no VATS wiring and SIR coil/wiring/gas bag. If you have VATS, there are only two more wires that need to be handled. With SIR, you have an entire additional procedure to remove and reassemble the system. You really should have a service manual in hand for that procedure.

Start by centering the steering wheel, so that the wheel can be replaced in exactly the same position on the shaft easily. The steering shaft is both marked and keyed, but centering the wheel makes the job easier to "eyeball", and keeps the turn signal cancelling cam out of the way in later steps.

Next, remove the hazard flasher knob on the lower right side of the steering column. There should be a small (#0) Phillips screw holding the knob in place. Find the release clip or bolts for the horn sounder pad and remove it. As the pad is removed from the wheel, unplug the horn wire from the connector on the pad. Remove the horn sounder wire and the insulator that guides the wire through the steering wheel. The insulating sleeve needs to be pushed inward slightly, twisted ¼ turn anticlockwise, and removed from the wheel. There is a light spring in the sleeve, so make sure all the parts are removed together.

Remove the safety clip from the steering shaft, then remove the nut. You might have to have an assistant help hold the wheel while you turn the nut loose. Install the bolts from your steering wheel puller into the tapped holes in the wheel, and turn the puller screw to release the wheel from the steering shaft.

Depress the notched wheel locking plate and remove the locking ring located at the center of the plate. There is a special tool for holding the wheel locking plate while the snap ring is removed, and it will be worth the $15.00 you'll pay for it. It can be done without the tool, but it is an exercise in frustration unless you are an octopus. I've done it several times using the "Armstrong" method, now I have the tool and use the "Brainstrong" method instead.

http://www.wwdsltd.com/files/ColumnLockPlate.gif

When the wheel locking plate is removed, you should see another pan head screw on the upper right side of the column. This screw holds the lock cylinder in place. You may be able to access the lock cylinder retaining screw without removing the turn signal switch, or you might have to remove it to gain access. Before you remove the lock cylinder, make sure you hold the plastic/metal foil contact assembly in place so you don't lose it down the column when the lock is removed. This switch assembly is what actuates the key warning buzzer/chime. If you have VATS, there should be an additional pair of wires to unplug.

http://www.wwdsltd.com/files/LockCylinder.gif

If you can perform this with the turn/hazard signal switch in place, good. If not, you'll have to remove the switch to gain access. At the left lower side of the turn signal switch and see a pan head Phillips screw that holds the turn signal lever in place. Remove this screw and plate, then move the lever out of the way. There are three more pan head screws that hold the turn signal/hazard lamp switch to the upper column. Remove those and lift the turn signal switch out of the way. You may need to feed some extra wire from under the column to allow the switch to clear the steering shaft and move out of the way completely.

http://www.wwdsltd.com/files/TurnSignalSwitch.gif

Once the turn signal/hazard switch base is out of the way, tou should be able to access the lock cylinder screw and connections.

Reassemble the parts in reverse order. Take time to clean and grease all the moving parts so you can have another ten years of reliable operation. Every moving part, including the turn signal switch and cancelling cam, should be cleaned and lubricated with white lithium grease.

When assembly is complete, torque the steering wheel nut to 35 ft/lb. There are already enough loose nuts behind steering wheels on our roadways....

There is a possibility that some of the pan head screws are Torx instead of Phillips. I believe this was more common on 1985 and later cars, but your's may have them as well.

There is also a very remote possibility that your car has an inflatable restraint, in which case you'll need to disconnect the battery and insulate all connections before you start. You should also have a service manual to detail the proper procedure for removing and re-centering the triggering coil and pickup for the SIR. You don't want to have that done incorrectly.

(Before anyone starts to argue about having an air bag on an older car, I know that some GM vehicles had SIR systems as early as 1977. My mother had a '77 Toronado with an air bag, but back then GM called it the "Air Cushion Restraint System" - almost 15 years before the SIR was standard on many cars. GM knew that the air bags sucked eggs back then, and they know that they still suck. But no one can reason with the government when they get involved in our personal lives. Gimme a five point any day. )

Wow Blue thanks... im going to try it this weekend (crosses fingers) printing the diagrams now, both of you have been very helpful, now it’s up to me:licka:

peace

i did this procedure on my cavalier the weekend before independence day and it wasn't as hard as it looks. pm me if you have any questions or get stuck