93 LX start problems

My 93 scort has developed a starting problem. When I turn on the key, I can hear the fuel pump operate, but the car won't start. If I turn the key on and off a few times it willl eventually start but run rough for a couple of seconds. Once it is up and running, it is just fine. The car will start OK if it has not sat too long. It is almost like the fuel system is losing it's prime. This car has given me 210,000 miles of trouble free service. I doubt I have spent $500 in repairs. It runs better than my 95 scort which has only $85.000 Can any one help me solve thsi problem? Need I change the fuel pump, or something else?

When you say it won't start, you mean it is cranking and just doesn't run? Or does nothing happen when you turn the key?

It cranks away, just won't fire. Seems like it is not getting fuel. This car has
always started great, even when it is -40 degrees outside. I am a bit concerned with winter coming on.

Check your timing belt.

Hi,

I think it has to be smething other than the belt, as it runs fine once it starts. If it has only been sitting for an hour or so, it fires right up.

Fuel Pressure Regulator. On the left side of the fuel rail as you face the engine from the front of the car. A diaphram housing with a vacuum line going to it right on top. Had the same problem. It wouldn't start and stay running until I had tried it 2 or 3 or 4 times. Once the pressure built up it would run fine. Just acted like it was starving for fuel. There is a Schraeder valve on the left of the fuel rail. Let it sit for a while and check it for pressure. If no pressure after it has sat for a while or however long it had to sit for it not to start-- the pressure regulator is not holding pressure. Don't check it for pressure while the engine is running. It could start a fire.

Thanks Davescort,
I will check it this weekend. In the meantime, My kid will let me drive our other 95 escort wagon. I just bought the 95 off a Chrysler dealers lot. It has 84,000 mile, not a scratch insde or out, four new Goodyears and a full tank of gas. After about 45 minutes of arguing with the manager, my kid drove it home for $850. The sales guy told us after wards that he had never seen the manager do anything lke that before. Maybe my kid should become a lawyer or used land salesman.

not a clue what I did, but the problem went away.

Your problem may come back. Hope not ... but it may.

If it does, I would first change out the regulator ... not that difficult or expensive.

If that doesn't do it ... your first guess was right (the fuel pump). The fuel pump has an internal check valve that is supposed to keep the line full. With that many miles, you've gottened your money's worth out of the original pump and inlet screen.

Well, the problem came back. The fuel presure was 38#, so I swapped the pumps from two escorts. Was not the pmp. Swapped the pressure regulators. Still no go. Then I got to thinking that it would start when hot, so I plugged in my soft plug heater for an hour, and sur nuff, it fired right off. So, I looked at the Engine Coolant Temperature sender. My DVM showed .5megaohms while the book called for 56 K ohms. I stuck a 57K resistor into the harness and she started first hit of the key. Changing the sensor took 3 minutes and cost $17.00.

Good find... I think that's the first time I heard that one.