Crankshaft pulley removal methods?

Changing out the timing belt on my 99 3.2L. Or trying, since I cannot get the crank pulley off. Have used lots of PB Blaster and an air wrench. ALso, jammed some bolts into the holes and tried to use a wrench to hold the pulley steady while I went after the crank bolt with a socket and breaker bar. Haynes says to use a "slip wrench or some sandpaper and a WP pliers. Yeah, right.

ANyone have this cranky problem? How to get it off? I bought this at 75K, it now has 120K, doesn't look like the belt has been changed previously.......

Thanks for any and all help.

Darwin

how does the belt look? I personally think 120k is a good number to change the belt at.

Belt still 'looks' OK but needs to be changed. But I NEED to get that crank pulley off.

Darwin

This is a perfect question for Jerry Lemond, he would know exactly what to do. [email protected]

he is an isuzu tech.

Hey there
I had the same problem on mine ,used all kind of suitable tools,braker bars etc. ,nthing worked,but one thing.
I got myself ,a 1/2 ridgit handle with the right size socket and a 3 pound hammer.
Put handle with the socket on the crank bolt , and give it a few good hits with the hammer , make sure nothing is in the way just in case you miss a handle with the hammer (hehe).It did worked for me very well after ,I think third good wack bolt came loose,and then just slide the crank pulley right off.

There is another way too but i've never tried this, some guys that i know put ratchets on the pulley weadging them against frame and just cranking the engine( not excessively ,just giving it a little short bump).Starter have enough force to brake the bolt loose.

Good Luck.

There is another way too but i've never tried this, some guys that i know put ratchets on the pulley weadging them against frame and just cranking the engine( not excessively ,just giving it a little short bump).Starter have enough force to brake the bolt loose.

Thats the way I've always done it. Used a breaker bar wedged against the frame though instead of a ratchet (they break too easy). You need to disable the ignition though so it wont start, just crank. Not sure of the best way to do that on a '99.

I used the breaker bar against the frame method 3 weeks ago. Just make sure it is against the drivers side as the engine cranks clockwise. JUST A VERY QUICK BUMP! Don't let it start.

I wasn't aware of the starter method when I did mine. I have since used it on my 2.0L Jetta and it was ridiculously easy. I will do it that way next time.

I had a pipe wrench on the pulley and a breaker bar on the bolt. I extended both with some pipe. I had my daughter work the pulley while I worked the bolt and we got it. PITA doesn't begin to describe it. It was the worst part of the job. Again, the starter method makes changing a timing belt very easy, but make sure the breaker bar is positioned right, as mentioned above.

I am thinking this guy already has the bolt out when the crank puley get a bit rusted it is hell to remove I usually tap (hard) around the face of the crank puley that usually knocks it loose if a pry bar with a bit of pressure behind it while tapping on it will get it loose I have sometimes spent up to an hour working these things off

He's talking about going "after the crank bolt with a socket and breaker bar"...

So have split a nice 24mm Craftsman socket. And I can't find a 24mm impact socket in my box. So I guess I will keep trying using the starter method. That s.o.b. must really be frozen on there.

Thanks to all for the posts and the help, don't think I would have come up with the starter method on my own.

Darwin

You split it using the starter method?

Yep, I used the breaker bar against the frame; cheap harbor freight breaker bar, bump the engine so there is no space against the bar and the frame, disconnect the coils wires from the spark plugs (you don't want to start the car) and tick it over very briefly. Makes a tough job very easy.

-Scott

So have split a nice 24mm Craftsman socket. And I can't find a 24mm impact socket in my box. So I guess I will keep trying using the starter method. That s.o.b. must really be frozen on there.
Darwin

Thats the nice thing about craftsman tools, you can just keep taking them back no matter how you broke it.

Glad you got it!

OK, at last I broke the crank bolt free using the starter method. Took a few tries to get the bar/ratchet combo tight against the frame. Thanks to all who replied and helped.

Now I am stuck on the serpentine belt tensioner. I need to get it off to get the last bolt off that is holding the lower timing belt cover in place. I removed the boltsd from the tensioner ears but can't pry it off. AM I missing something? My shop manual doesn't even mention removing this or how to go about it. It looks like the Allen bolt in the center of the spring arm just holds the spring and arm onto the base??? Can anyone help? I'll make a separate post so if you see this again, that's why.

Thanks,

Darwin

Actually , the allen bolt not holding the spring and arm to the base,it holds the whole tensioner to the engine block .It looks very misleading, i was affraid to remove it too thinking that the tensioner will fall apart . To get the tensioner out you have to remove this allen bolt. It's quite long bolt.

Good luck

just hope the head of the bolt dont break off

Help! I have a 96 Passport 3.2L. I'm replacing the water pump and timing belt. I'm working by myself so I need some clarification on using the 'starter bump' method of getting the dang crankshaft pulley off.

Do I place the breaker bar UNDER the car with the handle on the driver's side frame? I've read that the crankshaft pulley turns clockwise - is that when facing the car or sitting in the driver's seat? Also, what is the best way to disable the ignition so I can bump the starter without starting the car? Thanks for helping :)

I tested it out and I don't have any problem bumping the engine w/out starting it. I marked the crank pulley but can't tell which direction it is turning after I bump it - it turns 1/2 revolution, can't tell which direction it went.

If you are looking at the front of the engine, it turns clockwise. You described it correctly.

Thanks! The engine bump worked like a charm :) At last I have the water pump removed. Now to get the rest of the gasket removed, install the new pump, add the new timing belt, put it all back together, add coolant and test it out. I really hope I never have to do this again :banghead: . Thanks again!

No sweat. It's all down hill from here. Take your time and do it right. It's super satisfying when you turn it over the first time...a little nerve wracking, too. I've only done two timing belts, so it's still kind of exciting to me.

Guys the crankshaft pulling bolt removal idea using the chasis worked great except I have to replace my old torque rench. But that worked great and the crank shaft pully- harmonic balancer slide off with my hands. Thank you so very much!