89 iroc camaro

I have a problem with my 1989 iroc camaro over heating and cutting out really bad when i just want to cruise but if i mash the gas it will go with no problems. Does anyone have any answers for me.I have already changed the fuel filter and put some injector cleaner in my car and it still does the same thing.

Maybe a clogged fuel filter

Cat converter plugged.

Cat converter plugged.

It does sound like a restricted exhaust, most likely a plugged cat. In that case, the faster you are going, the hotter it gets and the less "cruising power" it makes. Mashing the gas can get you some more power, for a little bit at least. If it's a plugged cat, you will make it glow cherry red doing this. :)

I agree...probably congested in one way or another.
Are there any other problems/possible signs?

well i start the car in the morning and take off when i push on the gas it automatically starts cutting out then it also after driving it a little bit it starts to get hot. If i were to shut the car off for about a half hour i can get back in it with it still warm drive it and it doesnt really cut out but it will still get hot.

sounds like fuel problem, start with easy crap first, like new fuel filter and some injectir cleaner.

Have you checked your trouble codes?
might help if your computer knows something that you dont...

How would i go about checking my trouble codes im not familiar with that.

Under the dash on the drivers side, there in a plastic plate on the kick pannel.
Take it off and with the ignition key turned to on(car not started) use a paperclip to connect and A and B terminals.
The check engine light will start flashing(the fan will come on to, but that is normal)
Each code hase two numbers, and each code will flash three times before moving on to the next code.
The first code that flashes is 12 and that lets you know that the computer is functioning properly.
When you get your trouble codes, come back and post them, and we will tell you what they mean.
If you have a haynes manual, then check in there too because that has a picture of the terminal.

Alright r u talking about putting the paper clip in the fuse box or is there something im missing i dont want to do the wrong thing and fck something up

alright are you talking about putting the paper clip in the fuse box or is there something im missing i dont want to put it in the wrong place and mess something else up

Not in the fuse box. Look at your right knee when seated in the driver's seat. You'll see a plastic cover just below the dash. Remove that cover and behind it is a 12 pin connector (not all 12 holes have pins in them) Bend a paperclip in a tight U shape and stick the ends in the upper RH 2 pins (A&B). Next turn the key on but don't start the car. You'll hear some clicking and the cooling fan come on. Watch the check engine light, it will flash like this: Flash.....Flash..Flash, It will do this 3 times. This is code 12 and indicates that the ECM is in diagnostic mode. Next it will begin to flash out any stored codes..eg, Flash..Flash..Flash.....Flash..Flash (code 32). It will flash out each stored code 3 times then move on the the next one. Once it is done reporting all of the stored codes it will go back to flashing out 12 3 more times and repeate the stored codes. Turn off the key and remove the paperclip.
Come back here and post any codes you got.

ok the codes i got are:

Flash...Flash Flash
Flash...Flash Flash Flash
Flash Flash... Flash Flash FLash Flash

Ok, you got code 12 (normal, means it is in diagnostic mode)
Code 14 and code 24
Code 14 is coolant temp sensor fault. This could be the sensor itself or the wiring. I would lean towards the sensor since you also said it was "cutting out" A bad coolant temp sensor will make the engine stumble and possibly overheat due to improper fueling. The sensor feeds temp data to the ECM which it uses to set the fuel trims.
Code 24 is a VSS fault and could be; Faulty or loose wiring and/or connections at the ECM. TPS misadjusted. Faulty VSS

ok the codes i got are:

Flash...Flash Flash
Flash...Flash Flash Flash
Flash Flash... Flash Flash FLash Flash

I think he meant:

12 (diagnostic mode)
13 (Oxygen sensor signal problem or loss) instead of 14
and 24... (VSS loss of signal)

But I might be wrong.

Ok, yep, that was a 13, I was "flash blinded" there.....just post the numbers instead of "flash, flash flash"....I don't usually like being "flashed".

ok i know my oxygen sensor wire has been cut, but if thats not working then would that make my car stumble and over heat

Ok well i changed my O2 sensor and now my car runs great; it idles better and doesnt bog out but it is over heating wut should i look at now?

Ok well i changed my O2 sensor and now my car runs great; it idles better and doesnt bog out but it is over heating wut should i look at now?
Since the 02 sensor was disconnected for who knows how long, the catalytic converted may well be plugged up. This will cause it to overheat and loose power as well.

since i hooked that o2 sensor back up i have got a little more power i can tell and my car doesnt bog out or anything it just over heats but i will replace my cat and tell you what i get out of that but hey thanx for everyones help

Instead of replacing the cat, see if you can get a "test pipe" to install on it (costs a lot less than a new cat) to see if it cures the problem.

Are there more than one coolant temp sensors and where on the block would I find them .The coolant guage is a give away since it's stuck on stupid .were talking 89 tpi
5.0

Are there more than one coolant temp sensors and where on the block would I find them .
Only one CTS it is screwed into the front of the intake manifold and has a small 2 pin connector on it.

I used to own a 86 IROC with a 305. I had the same problem and what fixed that was my thermostat was fused closed and when I gunned it the thermostat forced open from pressure. After I replaced it never had a problem. Just something else to look at.

I had an '84 that run hot on the highway but would cool down whenever I stopped. It ended up being a missing airdam located underneath the radiator that is supposed to create a low pressure area behind the radiator to help draw air through it. I found one at the wrecking yard and put it on and it was fine after that.

...if i mash the gas it will go with no problems.

That doesnt seem like a restricted exhaust (clogged cat) to me.

And no one ever quantified what "hot" was. The system is designed to run up to 226ºF normally.

Beyond that, Brad has not reported back for a while, and the thread is getting rather old.