Make it stop!!!!!!!!!!!

Please for the love of GM, make it stop. My chime is driving me nuts. Put the key in the ignition earlier this week and the chime started. I didn't even start the car. Once I did start the car it kept going and going. That is until I fastened my seatbelt.

Then once I shut the car off, it started going again. No lights were on. No door open.

I finally pulled the chime unit itself it make it stop.

Is there a way to test this little thingy?

You probably have a bad door switch, or the wiring to it might be pinched and shorting.

Wouldn't that same switch run the dome lights? They work correctly through all of this.

CD - Which one of your vehicles are you driving to the assylum?

Which ever one will get me there!

Sorry. I should have been more specific. It's the 86 Caprice that is dirving me nuts.

O.K. There is quite a bit of difference between the '89 and the '89.

My chime is driving me nuts. Put the key in the ignition earlier this week and the chime started. I didn't even start the car. Once I did start the car it kept going and going. That is until I fastened my seatbelt.

Then once I shut the car off, it started going again. No lights were on. No door open.

I finally pulled the chime unit itself it make it stop.

Is there a way to test this little thingy?

The key/headlight/belt warning system can be checked, since it is fairly logical. Your warning alarm should have: An orange wire from the STOP lamp fuse - Hot at all times; A pink/black tracer wire from the GAGE fuse - Hot with ignition on; A gray or brown wire from the instrument lamp circuit (to indicate when lamps are on); A light green wire from the leaf contact switch on the ignition lock cylinder (indicating a key is inserted); A black wire from the normally closed seat belt switch; A yellow wire to the seat belt warning indicator lamp; And a black ground wire.
Since you've already removed the logic/chime module, you know where it is located. You should be able to test the inputs to determine whether thay are responding correctly to the conditions necessary.

Key Input
The light green wire is grounded through the key leaf switch contacts AND the left front door jamb switch (those are wired in series).

1. If the light green wire remains grounded with the key removed AND with the LF door closed (or switch held in that position) the wire may be inadvertently grounded somewhere, usually in the steering column.

2. If the light green wire is grounded only with the key removed and the LF door open, the key leaf contacts are suspect.

3. If the circuit remains grounded only with the key inserted AND the LF door open, the door switch and its wiring are suspect.

Seat Belt Input
The seat belt switch grounds the black wire whenever the seat belt is not connected to the receiver. If the wire remains grounded with the seat belt buckled, the switch in the belt retractor or receiver (depending upon the type used) is suspect, or the wire is pinched or grounded somewhere. The warning system should only activate via the seat belt if the pink/black wire has ignition power while the black seat belt wire is grounded.

Lamp Warning
The headlamp warning requires only main power via the orange wire and input power on the gray wire from the dash illumination circuit. If the gray wire has voltage with the lamps turned off, there is a problem in the wiring. The gray wire is a direct parallel feed from the instrument lighting circuit.

If the wire harness conditions are responding normally to the various switches and inputs, but the chime is still activated when it should not be, the logic circuits in the warning system are likely damaged, and the chime unit needs to be replaced.

Thanks BB! I will test it out later this week. I've got alot going on this week. So it will be awhile until I can test it all.