leaking coolant, where is it coming from ?

hi guys! new owner here of 1994 v6 passport. i got it for real cheap with supposedly rebuilt engine with 80,000...
i noticed one thing though that there is coolant leak underneath but not sure where it was coming from. the leak is quite bad as i have to refill the radiator the next few day or so. anyone have the same problem or know which part of the coolant hoses need replacing ?

the car runs great, does not overheat...as far as i know...but i make sure i have enough coolant in there before i hit the road. after a drive, then i would notice the coolant leak .

thanks for any help.

Welcome to 'Zu-land

Park the truck on a level surface and see if you can tell us where the coolant is dripping from - it could be any number of possibilities from a simple easy to reach coolant hose to a waterpump failing, or the harder to reach coolant hoses underneith the manifold. It could also be a freeze plug leaking, which is not very common, but has happened.

If it's dripping primarily in front of the oil pan (front of truck) it's most likely a hose on the front of the engine, or the waterpump; if the leak is dripping off the back of the engine, could be either the heater hoses (passanger side against firewall), or the coolant hoses/o-rings under the manifold.

Try not to be driving it, if at all possible for now, these engines are all aluminum and won't tolerate getting hot.

Good luck to you - let us know the outcome.

Shine a flashlight under the intake and on top of the block. Look way down in there. Just happens to be one of the harder spots to see coolant pooling.

tks ramblin,
the dripping was coming in front of the oil pan so im assumming it could be the water pump failure. i took the truck to my mechanic today and will have it all checked out. is there anything else i shud change while swapping the pump into a new one? timing belt ? serpentine belt ? belt tensioner ? am i missing something else ?

tks again..

Welcome to 'Zu-land

Park the truck on a level surface and see if you can tell us where the coolant is dripping from - it could be any number of possibilities from a simple easy to reach coolant hose to a waterpump failing, or the harder to reach coolant hoses underneith the manifold. It could also be a freeze plug leaking, which is not very common, but has happened.

If it's dripping primarily in front of the oil pan (front of truck) it's most likely a hose on the front of the engine, or the waterpump; if the leak is dripping off the back of the engine, could be either the heater hoses (passanger side against firewall), or the coolant hoses/o-rings under the manifold.

Try not to be driving it, if at all possible for now, these engines are all aluminum and won't tolerate getting hot.

Good luck to you - let us know the outcome.

Timing belt and the belt tensor for sure.

ok, after inspection by my mechanic....water pump was the problem of the coolant leak. pump was very bad and all. and so, we're going to change the timing belt, idler pulley, cam seals and what ever else is involved .

i will let you guys know how it's turn out.

Eager to hear. I always suspect the coolant leaks I've had (freeze plugs, o-rings), when in actuality it looks like the water pump is the most common culprit. I haven't had a pump in for more than 80K or so, so I haven't had that leak. Knock on wood. At this point (nearing 160K) I'm going to go with the "If it ain't broke..." approach.

ok, after inspection by my mechanic....water pump was the problem of the coolant leak. pump was very bad and all. and so, we're going to change the timing belt, idler pulley, cam seals and what ever else is involved .

i will let you guys know how it's turn out.

what you want to do is:
**timing belt
**tensioner
**idler pulley [I]only if a problem is indicated on inspection
**water pump
**serpentine or accessory belt(s)

there really isn't anything else involved.
cam seals? what are they saying about that?




//bc

At this point (nearing 160K) I'm going to go with the "If it ain't broke..." approach.

Surferfletch - in your trucks case I would; your truck leads an easy life with just a normal daily commute, your waterpump and belt should last long past what mine had, which was 90k for the waterpump, belt was still in good shape, just figured I'd might as well change it.

If your Rodeo did a lot of out of town trips, towing, off-roading, or driving in the mountains, I'd say do it around 90-100k; but just typical in town stuff, you shouldn't have to worry about it probably indefinitely.

She's been coddled.

not sure..maybe oil leaks from there and needed changing as well.....

what you want to do is:
**timing belt
**tensioner
**idler pulley [I]only if a problem is indicated on inspection
**water pump
**serpentine or accessory belt(s)

there really isn't anything else involved.
cam seals? what are they saying about that?




//bc

today, i got a word from my mechanic.....the truck runs real well.
he put new a/c belt as well because it wasn't there before and so the a/c blows "ice" cold. no more rising temps...thank goodness.

h'ever, he can still hear the ticking noise but not as much as before.
right now, the truck uses fram oil filter and i read it here that it's bad for the motor and makes the ticking, is that true ?

shud i change the filter to factory one ? shud i change the oil as well but to what grade ? full 10x30 sythetic ?


tks

Yes, fram filters can cause ticking in these engines.

I personally will only use OEM Isuzu filters or Wix Gold 1334 (part#, I believe) filters on my engine; have had too many horrible ticking filters to mess with trying others.

Oil, I use to use Havoline 10w-30 regular oil for the 1st 150k miles; I have recently switched to Valvoline Maxlife 10w-30 regular oil and a Wix filter. I believe I will stay with this set-up indefinitely, engine is so quiet, I don't even have that very light tapping that it once did.

In my opinion, I see no point in synthetic and I say this mainly because this 3.2L Isuzu engine CRAVES and NEEDS clean oil consistently; do NOT and I repeat do NOT go over 3,500 miles for an oil change as the lifters on this engine will clog and cause loud tapping, and start to burn oil.

Personally, I would not go above 3k miles on an oil change interval because you don't know it's history.

Do you know if your mechanic replaced your timing belt tensioner?? This is a VERY important item when putting on a new belt, otherwise it will fail soon afterwards.

FWIW - I chose to have my mechanic change my camshaft and crankshaft seals while he was in that area simply because they were original and 160k old and oil can leak from these areas, and in massive amounts.

hey ramblin, yeah...he change everything else; timing belt, idler pulley, and i think the cam seals as well.

i will have him change the oil and filter since the truck is still at the shop.

Yes, fram filters can cause ticking in these engines.

I personally will only use OEM Isuzu filters or Wix Gold 1334 (part#, I believe) filters on my engine; have had too many horrible ticking filters to mess with trying others.

Oil, I use to use Havoline 10w-30 regular oil for the 1st 150k miles; I have recently switched to Valvoline Maxlife 10w-30 regular oil and a Wix filter. I believe I will stay with this set-up indefinitely, engine is so quiet, I don't even have that very light tapping that it once did.

In my opinion, I see no point in synthetic and I say this mainly because this 3.2L Isuzu engine CRAVES and NEEDS clean oil consistently; do NOT and I repeat do NOT go over 3,500 miles for an oil change as the lifters on this engine will clog and cause loud tapping, and start to burn oil.

Personally, I would not go above 3k miles on an oil change interval because you don't know it's history.

Do you know if your mechanic replaced your timing belt tensioner?? This is a VERY important item when putting on a new belt, otherwise it will fail soon afterwards.

FWIW - I chose to have my mechanic change my camshaft and crankshaft seals while he was in that area simply because they were original and 160k old and oil can leak from these areas, and in massive amounts.

Great - you're all set! Nice grab, btw on finding a young obviously well taken care of truck.

yeah, tks for yr help man.....appreciate it!!
now, time for modding the truck..............

Great - you're all set! Nice grab, btw on finding a young obviously well taken care of truck.

just to let you guys know that the truck runs great after the repairs!
i paid total of $834.00 for the flwg:

-new timing belt
-new a/c belt
-new cam seals
-new idler pulley
-new belt tensioner
-new water pump
-new radiator
-new radiator upper and lower hoses
-new oil and filter

everything is brand spanking new and labor included with that price !!!

Excellent deal!

What kind of radiator did you get?

Also, take a look at your passanger side (up against the firewall) heater core hoses, there should be two - check their condition, they may be at the end of their lifespan. These are a PAIN in the arse to get to, but can be done within two hours or so by the normal every day person - it's just they're hard to reach is all.

i think i got the oem radiator.

i forgot to check the heater core hoses up against the firewall. i am sure i can change them my myself, right? or is it that complicated ?

truck runs good, a/c runs ice cold and im very happy cuz i dont have to worry about these things for the next few years...im hoping.

do you know where i can get the stock roof rack? is it expensive from the dealer or do i just buy from ebay ?

i plan to get a 3" lift. if i keep my stock wheels, what size of tires shud i get ? i also plan to repaint either black or white and get chrome bumpers and those nerf bars.



Excellent deal!

What kind of radiator did you get?

Also, take a look at your passanger side (up against the firewall) heater core hoses, there should be two - check their condition, they may be at the end of their lifespan. These are a PAIN in the arse to get to, but can be done within two hours or so by the normal every day person - it's just they're hard to reach is all.

Heater core hoses, yes, you can do those yourself, just hopefully you have small hands - area is REAL tight, that's what makes them a bugger.

My stock OEM rack came with my truck when I bought it - like I said, personally, I wouldn't spend the money for an oem rack unless you can find one for $15 or less; otherwise, it's not worth it.

Your stock wheels, are they alloy or steel? 15 or 16"?

My truck came with 16x6 steel wheels that I ran 245/75 tires on for years; then recently switched/upgraded to 16x8 wheels and am now running LT265/75 16's with no lift, no rubbing.

If you have the alloy wheels, you can run the LT265/75 16's or the 31x10.5 15's, depending on if you have 15 or 16" wheels without rubbing or a lift.

After the lift, you can run LT285/75 16's or size equivalent in the 15"s; but beware that the 3.2L V6 is already at a slight disadvantage for the weight of the truck alone - once you add bigger tires, a lift, and accessories, then if you pack up for a weekend adventure, don't expect it to haul down the highway at the same speed as before.

I personally wouldn't dream of going bigger then my 32"s, and with the combination of my accessories, i.e. 2 sets of foglights, luggage rack, 32" spare tire, class 3 hitch, 2 fast growing boys, 2 adults, 3 dogs and all of our gear for a typical weekend, and then, if I hook up the 4k# boat, on flat land highway we're fine, but if we hit a good mountain, (I-70 mountains for instance) you can imagine the screaming that comes out from under my hood.

Needless to say, the Rodeo doesn't typically haul the boat anymore, didn't want to chance it with higher mileage setting in.

yeah, i will try to do those heater hoses when i have time.

i think i have the 16inch stockers on my passport. so i can use LT 265 / 75 / 16 w/o any rubbing issues? i dont plan on lifting it up yet. i want to restore the exterior first and get it repainted at a cheap price.. nothing fancy, just want to make the truck look decent and all. i do want to change the bumpers to the chrome ones if i paint the truck either white or black.

as for the roof rack, yeah.....i will try to find a set from a junkyard or something. i am also looking for cheap nerf bars and a brush guard.

You can use the LT265's if you have the 16x7 in wheels, at least. I had that size mounted on 16x6 wheels, so it can be done, but they crown horribly and will wear out FAST.

I do not have any kind of lift or modifications to my suspension.

The brushguard and nerf bars just make sure you do not leave them on when you start to take the truck off-road, or you'll be replacing doors and the front hood to the engine bay, even possibly a new radiator.

tks ramblin! i will prolly consider the LT265'S then with my setup right now.
you know how much they go for ? any specific place toget those tires for cheap including mount and balance ?



You can use the LT265's if you have the 16x7 in wheels, at least. I had that size mounted on 16x6 wheels, so it can be done, but they crown horribly and will wear out FAST.

I do not have any kind of lift or modifications to my suspension.

The brushguard and nerf bars just make sure you do not leave them on when you start to take the truck off-road, or you'll be replacing doors and the front hood to the engine bay, even possibly a new radiator.

Discount tire stores are great.

I have the Yokohama A/T tires on 3 different trucks, a set of LT265/75 R16's will probably run you somewhere in the area of $575-$700 range just depending what their prices are in your state.

ust to let you guys know that the truck runs great after the repairs!
i paid total of $834.00 for the flwg:

-new timing belt
-new a/c belt
-new cam seals
-new idler pulley
-new belt tensioner
-new water pump
-new radiator
-new radiator upper and lower hoses
-new oil and filter

everything is brand spanking new and labor included with that price !!!

all that & he forgot the t-stat & gasket???

but WTG in catching this before the engine blows a head gasket...

i see.....how about american tire depot ? i wonder if they're cheaper...

you guys know what roof rack will fit on my 94 passport other than the exact one ? will 97-up fit my truck ? just curious cuz i can't seem to find any for cheap....for my particular year.

Discount tire stores are great.

I have the Yokohama A/T tires on 3 different trucks, a set of LT265/75 R16's will probably run you somewhere in the area of $575-$700 range just depending what their prices are in your state.

What kind of rack are you looking for exactly? Stock or aftermarket?

Either or from the 91-97 model years should fit your Rodeo.

I've never dealt with American Tire Depot; not sure if there is one here in Colorado.

you just reminded me....it did include the thermostat as well.



all that & he forgot the t-stat & gasket???

but WTG in catching this before the engine blows a head gasket...

just the stock rack i suppose...i think it will be just for looks....

i will keep an eye around ebay...


What kind of rack are you looking for exactly? Stock or aftermarket?

Either or from the 91-97 model years should fit your Rodeo.

I've never dealt with American Tire Depot; not sure if there is one here in Colorado.