'89 Suburban Starter/Service Engine Soon

The starter on my 1989 Chevy Suburban is toast. I need to know if anyone knows of any free online guides for changing one, as I'm not very mechanically inclined. Or, if you wouldn't mind putting something up if it's relatively simple, that would be great too. As well, the 'Service Engine Soon' light has always come on upon reaching around 80-100km/h. Never have figured it out, and it's done that for many years with no problem. Any advice would be appreciated!

Go to a library and get a manual for your vehicle. They probably have a chiltons manual that would cover this. If they won't allow you to check it out read it their and make a copy of the page.
Make sure to disconnect the neg.battery cable before you start. You should have a 1/4 drive socket set and a 3/8drive socket set before you start. Can you get under the vehicle without jack stands.

Yeah, it's pretty high up, and there's enough room. Although the fact that it's a 4x4 makes it a little tight...and I was also told that it was the positive I should disconnect

I have changed a few starters and always disconnected the neg. Most manuals say to do this. Disconnect both if you are worried. I only disconnect both if I am going to weld something.

Alright. Thanks for the info. Any ideas on the 'Service Engine Soon' problem?

Actually Chevy offers a online website that you can download a service repair manual for any GM vehicle. It doesn't cost any money, but you do have to set up a user name and password. It helps if you have the vin number as well. I don't have the website address handy, but I'll look for it and if i find it I'll post it here.

If I remember correctly on this year chevy their is a reset button you push under the dash. If you look at a manual it should show you where it is. I haven't worked on one of these in a long time. It might be around the speedometer cable.
I think your friend was an old ford man which used a positive ground years ago.

Scan the ECM for error codes. Don't be too surprised if you find a "32" indicating an EGR problem.

Actually Chevy offers a online website that you can download a service repair manual for any GM vehicle. It doesn't cost any money, but you do have to set up a user name and password. It helps if you have the vin number as well. I don't have the website address handy, but I'll look for it and if i find it I'll post it here.

I found it, thanks. I'll probably register tomorrow to get it

If I remember correctly on this year chevy their is a reset button you push under the dash. If you look at a manual it should show you where it is. I haven't worked on one of these in a long time. It might be around the speedometer cable.
I think your friend was an old ford man which used a positive ground years ago.

Not sure, but I'll just disconnect both. Might as well. And I'll check for that button too. Thanks

Scan the ECM for error codes. Don't be too surprised if you find a "32" indicating an EGR problem.

Hmmm...can't say that I could do that. Don't have the tools nor the know-how, and it's not bothering me, 'cause we never found anything wrong when it said that. And is an EGR problem serious? 'Cause the my student budget is pretty tight at the moment...

I always had a drivability problem when I had problems with an egr valve it recirculates some exhaust gas for a clean burn. About the push button I was thinking about an older chevy more like 1979. I had a 1979 impala and my mother had a 1984 caprice for some reason I was thinking they were 1989 and 1994.Normally a vacuum valve gets a signal from the computer and opens which in turn opens the egr valve. A blocked vacuum line , vacuum valve or a bad diaphram in the egr are most common some plug up also. If you get one from a parts store has small washers needed for the port as it fits more vehicles. Some have a sensor on top which also set codes.
You clear codes after servicing by disconnecting a neg.battery cable if you don't have a costly scan tool.

Alright, so I changed the starter and it works great, but when I drive it I suddenly lose power and the engine dies on the spot, and then it comes right back. It only happens while I'm decelerating, and I always have my dash lights still. Need help!

Check your air filter is it plugged. Check the hose from the air cleaner thru the mass airflow sensor is it tight. Are all electrical connections plugged in or some disconnected. Run the engine at idle until the thermostat opens feel the top radiator hose you can feel when it opens.
Does the problem go away when the engine is hot. If it does reply as this could indicate problem areas. Open the hood at night with the engine running does it look like a christmas tree.
Does your state have emission checking stations if so ask the operator if he will give you the codes for a $25.00 emission test. Find a younger operator about your age.
You can go to a parts store and get a GM code reader ask what a cheap one costs Tell us the codes in the order they occur.
Have you changed your fuel filter when you purchase one look at the ends to determine if you need a tool to remove it. Maybe your friends have one they will lend you. You can look at the arrow and blow thru from the end closest to the tank. If you can't blow thru it put on a new one.

You don't need any special scanner for an '89. A jumper wire or paper clip (or, as I have recently learned, even a guitar string) is all that is necessary. Perform a search for code scanning at the ALDL. I've listed a complete procedure recently.

So the engine dieing issue has been resolved after it completely died today. It was just a loose connection on the starter. And I'll have to work on that 'Service Engine Soon' issue soon. You wouldn't happen to have the URL for that procedure, would you? I can't seem to find it

I am glad you found the problem. This shows you have ability. They used to sell a code checker that looked like a key with two prongs and instructions for $1.95 but I looked on ebay and the cheapest is now about $15.00. This has a led light and plugs in to the test connection.

Try this -

You’ll need to acquire a GM ECM Diagnostic Trouble Code Retrieval Tool (usually called a “paper clip”). Cut the clip in half so that one end of it is still bent in a “U” shape. If you’re careful, you can make TWO error code retrieval tools from one paper clip.

With the engine and ignition turned off, locate the ALDL connector under the dash, just to the right of the steering wheel in the driver's foot well area on some models, and on the left on others, depending on the make and year. There may be a small rectangular cover over the access hole in the lower dash trim.

http://72.19.213.157/files/ALDLPlug.jpg

Insert a jumper tool or the aforementioned paper clip into the 'A' and 'B' terminals on the ALDL connector:

http://72.19.213.157/files/ALDL.gif

WITHOUT STARTING the engine, turn the ignition to the "RUN" position. Watch the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) - it will begin to flash. This is also commonly called the “Check Engine”, “CEL”, "Service Engine Soon" or "SES" lamp. The first code will flash three times, and will usually be a code '12'. This is encoded by one flash of the lamp, a brief pause, then two successive flashes of the lamp. Each code will repeat three times, so you should see a "Code 12" flash three times. Any other error codes will follow in numerical order, and each code should flash three times. After all codes have been displayed three times, the "Code 12" will again flash three times, then all other codes will follow as described earlier. This cycle will continue until the jumper is removed or the ignition is turned off.

After you have made a note of all error codes, turn off the ignition and remove the jumper immediately. If you forget to remove the jumper and attempt to start the engine with it in place, you could damage the ECM. For this reason you should remove it immediately.

Once you have a note of all error codes, check this file for the decoding:

GM Error Codes.pdf (http://72.19.213.157/files/GMError.pdf).

You'll need Adobe Acrobat Reader (http://www.adobe.com/products/acrobat/alternate.html) to open/print the file.

So I have a Code 12, a Code 32, and a Code 45. So I need to get a new oxygen sensor (and find out how to change it and where the stupid thing is), as well as figuring out which code 32 needs to be resolved (unless getting that code means that there are both problems present...) and then resolve it. Now, are these serious problems? I don't like the fact that the mixture is rich because of the crappy (uh, crappier) fuel economy, but this thing was driven for years like this

The 12 is ECM self check.

The 32 is EGR which can be EGR valve, solenoid or vacuum hose.

The 45 is exhaust rich, but that does not mean the 02 is bad (of course it could be bad). A rich condition can be due to leaking injectors, too high fuel pressure, a leaking fuel pressure regulator or the 02 could be bad reporting an incorrect rich condition.

If it is really running rich, replacing the 02 may not fix your problem.

//2000CAYukon

2000CAYukon is correct. The normal failure mode for a zirconia oxygen sensor is a weakening signal output, which hte ECM would interpret as a lean condition. For the O² to report a rich condition, the signal from it has to be higher than normal, which wouldn't indicate a weak sensor. More likely it is a truly rich exhaust condition.

2000CAYukon has listed several things to check. The only thing I would add is that the pressure regulator on a TBI system is not regulated by vacuum, so leakage at the regulator would not likely cause a rich condition. Failure of the regulator creating high pressure, on the other hand, would create a rich condition.

Since the 1989 TBI system is a speed/density scheme, it relies on an accurate MAP signal, presumes correct fuel pressure, and requires that the PCV flow is correct. If the PCV system is not operating, some air at low throttle angles will be lacking, causing a rich condition. Make sure you have the correct PCV valve installed and the crankcase vent is unobstructed - some have a small filter in the air cleaner housing which can plug. A restricted air intake or dirty air filter can create a rich condition as well.

As blue bowtie said check out your problems a rich mixture can be caused by the wrong thermostat. You should be operating around 195 degrees. Get a little screwdriver with a lightbulb in it. Probably at a parts store they are cheap.You can slide it besides the sparkplug boot the light flashes when the plug fires a bad plug can cause a rich condition.
You can feel the radiator hose on a friends newer car when hot is yours should feel feel the same.
With this age vehicle get a can of carb. cleaner spray along the intake manifold around the throttle body or around the base of the injectors on a system with 8 injectors. If the engine smooths out repair the leak sometimes you can snug up the intake othertimes a new gasket is needed.
When the county area passed the emissions testing it was the mechanics best friend. The shop would get a lot of work also owning a machine made money and when the work was done you were certain it would pass because it was tested before it left the shop.
Do a few basic tests before buying oxygen sensors. A cracked exhaust manifold around the oxygen sensor will cause a very rich condition. you can use a flashlight and look. Even a plugged pcv valve will cause you to flunk an emission test you can clean it out with the carburator cleaner.

Well the province I live in doesn't do emission tests, so I'm fine on that end, but I'll probably have to get my friend to come out to help out with some of the not so basic stuff (he's just more knowledgeable). And I could probably use new spark plugs anyhow. As for temp, the gauge on the truck says that it operates at about 95 (there's 40, 100, and 140), so I'm assuming that would be celcius, so that's pretty much 195 in ferenheit (203, to be exact).

Your temperature is normal. Nothing listed here is really very difficult. If you have a few basic tools and a handheld voltmeter, we can probably walk you through most of the diagnoisis.

I didn't realize you had a Canadian car. I got picked up for speeding in Canada I was doing 75mph in a 90km zone. I realized I was speeding but my uncle said we were doing 75mph in a 90mph zone. As I had an older car on a fishing trip he let us go. This means it didn't have both mph and km on the speedometer.

I may just take you up on that. And, come to think of it, the exhaust has been smelling pretty rich lately. And yes, the Suburban is Canadian

Alright, so this is what I figure. The EGR valve is there in order to recycle exhaust to ensure a clean burn. So, if that valve wasn't working, which it probably isn't judging by the Code 32, wouldn't that also trigger the Code 45? If this is likely the case, how hard is it to replace?

EDIT: Would this be the hose that was being referred to? This has been missing for quite a while now...

http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/5894/trucknw1.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

You should replace any missing parts as GM designed the engine with all parts working for proper combustion.

Yeah I went down to Bumper to Bumper and got a replacement hose. Just the one that helps warm up the carb. But the EGR is going to have to wait until I have enough funds to fix it

That hose is not for EGR. That peice of corrugated duct is used to divert air heated by the ehxaust manifold to the intake during engine warm-up only. The warmer air helps insure complete evaporation of the fuel into the intake air in a cold intake manifold. Once the engien temperature increases, the butterfly valve in teh air cleaner snorkel is supposed to close off the hose opening and draw all intake air through the normal duct system.

FWIW, the EGR system is designed to introduce some amount of exhaust gasses to the intake mixture during part-throttle, low load conditions only. The exhaust gasses are intended to slow the combustion rate, and thereby limit combustion chamber temperatures, which reduces the production of oxides of nitrogen in the combustion exhaust gasses. It doesn't necessarily provide for a more complete or cleaner burn, or change the level of residual oxygen in the exhaust gasses (as measured by the O² sensor), but simply changes the conditions under which the fuel is burned.

The one other benefit of the EGR system is that in limiting combustion chamber peak temperatures, the incidence of preignition is reduced, so more ignition timing advance can be administered by the ECM/PCM.

Okay, I've got a scenario. I took my Suburban to a mechanic. I told him to change the ball joints, rear brake shoes, and to make sure to check and make sure that everything else was fine, as it has been parked for 3 1/2 years. He fixed what he needed to fix. Now, a month and a bit later, I find out that I've been driving without transmission fluid this entire time, and my transmission has burned out as a result. Now, had you been that mechanic, wouldn't you at least check the fluid levels? That makes sense to do, doesn't it? Or am I just crazy?

Anyway, so I've got a new paperweight, and I need to know a few things. For starters, does the fact that it is a 4x4 make a difference in the transmission? If so, what kind of transmission can I get to replace my burnt out one? Any help would be appreciated


I know that I need an overdrive 4-speed automatic transmission, but th 4x4 thing has me worried

I doubt you have been driving without transmission fluid for a month and a half. Crawl under the vehicle and see if he broke something when he was working on your vehicle. You should see signs of fluid leaking. If you find something ask him to replace the transmission.
Your cheapest bet is to get a good used unit at a junkyard. He may have left out a drain plug on the transfer case directly behind the transmission. If this is the problem he should buy a transfer case.
Is any fluid on the dipstick how are sure of the problem.

Okay, so the transmission fluid that he put in today was only used for about 20 minutes, and it smells very burnt. As for the problem, how it works exactly is that you can still run through the gears, but when in overdrive or drive, the shift from first to second is rough, and when it tries to shift to third, it disengages second, but never engages third, so it just revs the engine. As for getting him to replace the tranny, I can't because I don't have the 1500 or whatever it costs to get a replacement. I've got to change it myself (with the help of a few friends, of course)

From what you previously wrote I didn't understand it that way. You should be able to get a good used unit for around $300.00. Ask the yard you buy it from to give you a month warranty if you change the fluid,filter and flush the lines. Very important as metal shavings will take out a good transmission. I use an air pressured container with new transmission fluid. At the least spray about 3 cans of brake clean thru it until all metal shavings are removed.
The transfer case is heavy remove it before you remove the transmission. I would buy a 2 or 3 foot extension and a flexible connecter as it allows you to reach some very hard to get at bolts at the top of the transmission. Laying on top of the engine with an open wrench is a hard way to go. You will need a floor jack under the transmission when you take it down. Also get the torque converter with the transmission. You have to unbolt the torque converter first.
When reinstalling it be very careful and use vasoline to grease the seal
Make sure it fully inserted or if the two slots aren't in you will break the oil pump causing a new transmission.

You can create a cradle of sorts to help control the transmission by running two ratcheting tie down straps around the frame rails and under the front/back of the transmission. This will allow you lower the trans onto the straps, reposition the floor jack as needed then ratchet down the strap a bit and so on until you have the transmission on the ground. Also gives you a safety net if the tranny comes off the floor jack it will just hang on the straps rather than crashing down onto you. A separate jack under the back of the engine will also help keep things in alignment/control. When you reinstall make sure you put a quart or so of new transmission fluid in the torque converter before you install it; that way you won't fire it up dry and risk damaging it.

From what you previously wrote I didn't understand it that way. You should be able to get a good used unit for around $300.00. Ask the yard you buy it from to give you a month warranty if you change the fluid,filter and flush the lines. Very important as metal shavings will take out a good transmission. I use an air pressured container with new transmission fluid. At the least spray about 3 cans of brake clean thru it until all metal shavings are removed.
The transfer case is heavy remove it before you remove the transmission. I would buy a 2 or 3 foot extension and a flexible connecter as it allows you to reach some very hard to get at bolts at the top of the transmission. Laying on top of the engine with an open wrench is a hard way to go. You will need a floor jack under the transmission when you take it down. Also get the torque converter with the transmission. You have to unbolt the torque converter first.
When reinstalling it be very careful and use vasoline to grease the seal
Make sure it fully inserted or if the two slots aren't in you will break the oil pump causing a new transmission.

Thanks for the tips. I'll make sure to pick up some brake cleaner then. As for the new transmission, I'm probably getting one from a friend, so I'm not sure what kind of warranty I get with that.... As well, there isn't a difference between an 2-Wheel-Drive and a 4-Wheel-Drive transmission, is there? I don't think there is, but my friend seems to think otherwise. Clarification on this would be appreciated

You can create a cradle of sorts to help control the transmission by running two ratcheting tie down straps around the frame rails and under the front/back of the transmission. This will allow you lower the trans onto the straps, reposition the floor jack as needed then ratchet down the strap a bit and so on until you have the transmission on the ground. Also gives you a safety net if the tranny comes off the floor jack it will just hang on the straps rather than crashing down onto you. A separate jack under the back of the engine will also help keep things in alignment/control. When you reinstall make sure you put a quart or so of new transmission fluid in the torque converter before you install it; that way you won't fire it up dry and risk damaging it.

Thats a great tip. Thanks!

Some times you can change the tail shaft on the transmission. And sometimes the bell housings are different. Once the transmission is out. Lay the replacement down beside the old unit. If everything matches you are ok. Otherwise you may have to change some parts or get another transmission.

There are some differences on the tailshaft (back end on the transmission); the four wheel drive version is shorter and bolts to the transfer case while the two wheel drive version has a longer tailshaft that doesn't bolt to anything. As I understand it the internal workings are the same so as mentioned previously; you can swap tailshafts if neede to get things back on track. For simplicity I'd stay with the same model; If you had a 700R4 before then stick with a 700R4. It's not impossible to trade but things may not mate up exactly and some modifications may need to be made if you swap. Unless you have your heart set on a particualr type/model I'd stay with what was on the truck before.

There are some differences on the tailshaft (back end on the transmission); the four wheel drive version is shorter and bolts to the transfer case while the two wheel drive version has a longer tailshaft that doesn't bolt to anything. As I understand it the internal workings are the same so as mentioned previously; you can swap tailshafts if neede to get things back on track. For simplicity I'd stay with the same model; If you had a 700R4 before then stick with a 700R4. It's not impossible to trade but things may not mate up exactly and some modifications may need to be made if you swap. Unless you have your heart set on a particualr type/model I'd stay with what was on the truck before.

I'm going to try, but I have somewhat limited options. The salvage yard here doesn't have the tranny I'm looking for, but a friend might. If it's not the right one, I guess it's the auto trader for me. But if the one he has could be fitted to my truck I'll probably do that

Hey, can you post the url for the manual web site, I wasn't able to find it,

thanks

I'll take a look for it tomorrow and post the URL. But how hard is it to change the tailshaft on the transmission? 'Cause I'm pretty sure that the one I'm likely going to buy is probably off of a 2WD

Lay them down fairly close to each other. Clean any excessive dirt off of them. After the dirt is swept away put clean newspaper under them. In a garage with air tools I would say 10 to 20min. Normally they have a flange with 4 bolts to take out. Then pull it straight back. Clean the flange so you don't have any leaks. If you use silicon be very careful as to much can plug up a valve body. Make sure you clean the inside of the tail shaft you are putting on as the old transmission failed. I would also buy a front and rear seal for the transmission.
Also check the rear main on the engine while the transmission is out.