'95 Mark VIII Battery Draining

I just recently started having a problem with my battery draining during the week. I usually drive it on weekends only and it is parked in my garage the rest of the time. The battery is about 10 1/2 mos. old and it checked out OK. They also checked the output of the alternator and said it was well within specs. When the car is parked for 4-5 days it will not turnover to start. I have also noticed that the remote only works right next to the car. I haven't replaced the remotes batteries, thinking that is all it is, but could this be somehow related. A couple of months ago I noticed the interior lights stayed on after I locked the car with the remote, but only for about 30-45 seconds. Could this also be related. Where should I start looking? :frown:

Thanks,
Mark

-- I haven't replaced the remotes batteries, thinking that is all it is, but could this be somehow related.
-- I noticed the interior lights stayed on after I locked the car with the remote, but only for about 30-45 seconds. Could this also be related.
-- Where should I start looking?


Hey Mark,
The remote operating range is related to two things, well actually three. Ford made shitty remotes till about 1998, even fresh batteries dont throw signal very far. A newer style remote will go a lot longer distance. When the remote batteries are dying they will work very close to the door for a bit, just before complete failure.

The interior lights are on a timer, like you said, after a given duration they will dim slowly and shut off. You can override the dim-to-off with the 7/8 9/0 keypad lock code.

There's a few ways to trace electical shorts, but the best would involve the use of a amp meter. Not a scary high priced device, one can be had at Harbor Frieght from $3.99 to $25.00 depending on what else you need it for. The cheepo $3.99 VOM (volt ohm meter) works great.

Other methods would be removing fuses in the dark to see if there's a visible electrical arc when the fuse makes/breaks contact but honestly, with the $3.99 VOM you can do this in the sunlight too :) If you find a fuse that's drawing amps with everything off -- well -- good job, you know what's killing your battery.

Tha alternator is usually the prime suspect. The shops tell you it's working great and it's still killing your battery. There are some VOM tests you need to do on the alternator / regulator as well to see if it's bleeding voltage to ground.

All these tests are detailed everywhere on the internet when you feel like diving into it.

Draining and recharging your battery is taking a toll. You will need a new battery if you keep that up. At least disconnect it when it's fully charged and not in use. I know that's not the best thing for your ECM memory, but you must be getting tired of charging / jumping that car.

Also with the VOM, you could find out approximately how much voltage is leaking to ground by disconnecting one battery lead, and connecting the VOM between that Bat.Cable and the Battery.

I keep a solar charger/equalizer on my boat battery, works great.

HI does your radio shut off when door is opened before the 10 min delay? if not the switch in door latch or tuner on/off switch may be bad i went through same problem was both switches on my 97 lsc.thanks