Recent H22 swap PROBLEMS

I obviously don't drive the car.

I am taching out @ 4k RPMS
Codes I am throwing:
code 4. Crankshaft potitioning sensor
code 6. Engine coolant sensor

I'm running a friends p72 ecu (stock) when I start the car b/c I never got the p13 with this swap and the stock p28 I got makes it run even worse. I know the Gsr p72 I'm using is stock but I know alot of guys around here using stock ones on there Jdm H22's and there having no issues. I am in the process of getting the P28 ecu shipped out to Kenji in Florida ( www.kenji211.com/home.htm )for H22 base maps since I heard alot of good things about him on this forum and H-Tech.

I am using my old USDM H23a1 Distributor since it has external coil. It made it alot easier to connect my MSD system instead of messing with the H22's internal coil. H22 and H23's are the same according to there part number but differ only b/c the H22 is internal coil and the H23 coil is external according to the Hswap book. The MSD Blaster SS coil and SCI BOX is hooked up correct. I went over it a million times..

My current firing order is set at
TOP-----3---4
Bottom--1---2
I know it's supposed to be something like this
Top-------4---2
Bottom---1---3
but when its hooked up that way it back fires. Any solutions?

Note**When the car is runing and you step on the gas it has a slight hesitation. It makes a bogging sound. I have 2 grounds hooked up. 1 from the valve cover to the core support and the other from the trans to the core support. Is that enough or do I need others? If so where do they go?

I've listed my current engine mods below incase this helps anyone.
JDM H22A
M2S4 SI Trans
XTD Stage 3 6puck
XTD Lightened Flywheel
MSD 1.6 civic CAP
MSD SCI BOX
MSD SS BLASTER coil
NGK Iridium plugs
NGK Wires
B/M Fuel Reg
DC "junk" header
Magnaflow Highflow cat to Magnaflow Exhaust w/ 2.5" piping
Koyo radiator
Hondata Intake Manifold
VAFC-1

Thank you to everyone in advance.

I havent messed with an h series yet, at least in the car. But from the sound of it the timing is out 180 on one of the cams or both. My friends LS had the same problem we re-did the timing about 6 times till it was perfect. Someone modified the cam gears on each side for some reason and that seamed to work. Im sure someone else might know eaxaclty whats going on. My h23 is in pieces in my bedroom till iget all the parts for the turbo kit.

I havent messed with an h series yet, at least in the car. But from the sound of it the timing is out 180 on one of the cams or both. My friends LS had the same problem we re-did the timing about 6 times till it was perfect. Someone modified the cam gears on each side for some reason and that seamed to work. Im sure someone else might know eaxaclty whats going on. My h23 is in pieces in my bedroom till iget all the parts for the turbo kit.


thanks for the reply. I had someone check my timing. they said that it was TDC.....Any thoughts on that?

Just because the crank is at TDC doesnt mean the cams are timed correctly. Also it has to be TDC for cylinder 1 on the intake stroke, so best bet stick either a coat hanger or something long that can fit in the hole fore the spark plug in cylinder 1 and you will have TDC on cylinder one when it doesnt go up anymore. After this you have to check the cams they should have arrows on them that say up they should face straight up when the crank hits TDC.

Just because the crank is at TDC doesnt mean the cams are timed correctly. Also it has to be TDC for cylinder 1 on the intake stroke, so best bet stick either a coat hanger or something long that can fit in the hole fore the spark plug in cylinder 1 and you will have TDC on cylinder one when it doesnt go up anymore. After this you have to check the cams they should have arrows on them that say up they should face straight up when the crank hits TDC.

hi. I am not sure if my friend checked the arrows on the cam gears like you stated. I decided to write him a email and give him the link to this thread so he can post a reply and let it be known what he exactly did when he checked to see if it was TDC since with Timing (besides shooting the timing light) I'm clueless...

I appreciate the responses PIMP... There seems to not be many people on here who help others out anymore which is sad...

yeah mike had arrows and crank TDC and also used a screw driver to make sure cyl 1 was up..the problem was the car kept starting on the wrong cyl..

So has stated from my friend the cam gear arrows were pointed straight up. Any other suggestions?
It puzzles me that the firing order is ompletely off and that's the only way it seems to start and run half decent. Well untill you try to take it over 4K. And like stated above it backfires and doesn't start with the ignition wires in the correct order on the distributor cap (1-3-4-2). I'd also like to add (before anyone asks) the motor has good compression 240-230-240-240

better yet. heres a pic of the diz cap. It is facing the way it goes on. Could someone copy this, put it into paint and mark the number of the wire that goes to each hole? thank you

http://i6.ebayimg.com/05/i/08/50/e8/c8_1.JPG

Flywheel:: I have a aftermarket flywheel and someone thinks my bottom end might be off 180 degress and says that might be why my car runs like ass. I have a XTD flywheel and it never had marks on it. The lightened flywheels are blanced so i didnt think i needed to mess with it. But then I cant shoot the timing with the gun since theres no mark... Can I use a H23a1 flywheel to mark my H22 flywheel IF I HAVE TO? I would think there the same.. I am using a H23usdm trans with a H22 flywheel and clutch so im guess its all the same. I heard my one friend state before you have to heat up the flywheel in the oven and put it on the car hot so it absorbs heat better. Now I never heard that. IS that true?

Ignition::::
Also I do remember taking off the distributor cap and looking inside it to make sure none of the plugs cam loose. I noticed the distributor cap has greenish like color inside it. Weird???? So I cleaned it off. Then I noticed the ignitor tip was black. I thought hmmm I should replace this. Do you think if the ignitor is bad that would ause me not to rev over 4k?

No its one of 3 things, ecu problem, compression, or timing. Thats why i said it has to be on TDC on the intake stroke, best way to do this is use the coat hanger/screwdriver and wait till it hits TDC on the crank, then check the distributor (take the cap off) to make sure the rotor is at cylinder 1, remember the crank must roatate 2 times for a full cycle hence 4 stroke. As for the cap let me check my chiltons to check it for order. But as for the 4k rpm problem like i said ecu, compression, or timing.

my friend FULLblownSTD stated above what the guy did. He said it was comming up on a diffrent cyclinder and not the one it was supposed to. I guess its supposed to come up on cycl 1 but it was comming up on cycl 4. what exactly causes this in the timing?? and how do I fix it? Since maybe that's 90% of my problem. thank you.

if this helps the motor is a 92 JDM H22A in a 93' Prelude SI TRIM vehicle. I am using a USDM H22A1 wiring harness

Did you read what i said use the coat hanger/screwdriver in cylinder one to make sure its tdc then remove the dizzy cap and look to see if the rotor is on cylinder one.

yes i did. My friend "fullblownSTD" posted this

yeah mike had arrows and crank TDC and also used a screw driver to make sure cyl 1 was up..the problem was the car kept starting on the wrong cyl..

the cylinder it was showing up on was #4

Thats why i sadi check the rotor, if its starting on cylinder 4 then thats the cylinder on the compression stroke (ive been saying intake by accident). 4-stroke engines use 2-revolutions of the crank for one complete cycle

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/engine.htm

look at the diagram, theres 2 points where the engine can be ad TDC for cylinder 1, if its not done on the compression stroke then the engine wont fire right which means it would trying to start on cylinder 4.

http://img18.exs.cx/img18/7701/b16firingorder2.jpg

see if that helps the pic is labeld b16, but its in a h22 forum on honda tech so they might be the same, i look some more later, or if i find my chiltons il label the dizzy pic you put up.

I'm wondering if the plug wires aren't going to the right dizzy spot. Isn't the p28 off the civic? So if ur running the stock p28, then its only getting the fuel/spark for a 1.5/6 L. And I'm wondering do you have your VAFC hooked up?

Thats why i sadi check the rotor, if its starting on cylinder 4 then thats the cylinder on the compression stroke (ive been saying intake by accident). 4-stroke engines use 2-revolutions of the crank for one complete cycle

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/engine.htm

look at the diagram, theres 2 points where the engine can be ad TDC for cylinder 1, if its not done on the compression stroke then the engine wont fire right which means it would trying to start on cylinder 4.

http://img18.exs.cx/img18/7701/b16firingorder2.jpg

see if that helps the pic is labeld b16, but its in a h22 forum on honda tech so they might be the same, i look some more later, or if i find my chiltons il label the dizzy pic you put up.

wow. Thanks man, I mean it. I did however figure out I had the correct firing order before you posted that, but your the first to help me out in that way. I have been asking on other forums for someone to do that to and not even the Lude guys were helping. So thanks

OK I understand what your saying about the rotor now. How would I go about fixing that problem then if all's correct but the rotor points to cyl 4 which is what I think it was doing? Thank you

The only way i know of fixing this is to turn the cam to the right position, since the cam turns the distrbutor directly. Thats why ive been saying you have to be on the correct TDC. The best way to make sure this all works is to pull the valve cover off and see which valves are opening if the 2 on the intake side on cylinder 1 are opening then this is the correct one. Believe me we managed to get the ls running after 6 hours of constantly changing the timing, checking compression, and got it all straight then it would not rev up past 4k ended up being a bad head gasket. ALso check the ground on the thermostat on the back side above the trans.

As for the pic i wasnt sure but they seem to be correct, as the h22 does firs 1-3-4-2.