Early 70's Firebird 400... set up for drag?

I was wondering what a good set up for deag racing would be in a 1970 Firebird? non-ram air and non-original engine? Engine was a 4BBL low compression 400, but was replaced with a Formula 400 engine from 1970. YS block 330hp/430tq. The car has 3.36 gearing in Safe-T-Track differantial which was also removed from the formula 400 parts car, as well as a TH350.

I was wondering what kind of times I would expect to run in the quarter mile with the Formula engine? Would I run faster or slower then a early 2nd generation formula? Also, with the addition of a 3,200 rpm stall converter, headers, mufflers, exhaust with X pipe, bigger carb and better intake manifold, with HEI conversion, what would the car run then on the stock 14x7 wheels with 245 BFG's on all four?

Too many questions and variables for a good answer.

The '70 engine, if unmodified (internally) requires heigher than 93 octane fuel to perform correctly. Mix 50/50, "race gas" and 93.

TH350 won't last too long behind a powerful Pontiac. TH400 is far tougher.

3.36 gears are "Chevy" gears. I know of no Firebird with that option. Pontiac would normally be 3.23s or 3.55s.

It's not uncommon for a 400-powered 2nd gen to run low 12s/high 11s if properly set up. With street tires, add about 1 second to that.

Lastly, ignore the buzzing in your ear about "needing a Chevy" to make it run well. Get Jim Hand's "How to Build Max-performance Pontiac V8s" by SA Designs. It's the onbly CURRENT study of the old Injun out there. Published in Summer of '04, it has lots of good info, and dispells many myths.

JIm

would you need a 3200 rpm converter, is the powerband that high on that motor?

For drag racing, the converter requirements are much different than for a street engine. The goal is the "launch". No need to worry about cruising speed.

A 350-horse 400 (GTO rated, same as 330 HP Firebird) makes power well past 5,000 RPM. A 3,200 converter would work well to launch the car with at least 3.55 gears. The 3.36s are WAY too "tall" for drag racing. The Pontiac will "like" 3.90s or 4.10s the best.

Jim

does a non-locking racing torque converter become almost locked up just like a stock non-locking one does at high speeds or does it still slip a lot? if it doesn't slip a lot at high speeds, maybe ill get me a 3000ish rpm converter instead of 2000ish, since most of the trip to my school and work is at about highwayish speeds. i can accept bad mileage on city roads. but maybe ill have to get wider tires lol...

As you now say you're using the car on the street, all comments about "drag racing" are invalid. A street converter has much different requirements.

The most important aspect of the street converter is that it achieves "lockup" at a lower engine speed than normal "cruising spreed". That is, if your car is revving 2,500 at 60 MPH, and that's where the car spends most of it's road time, you need a 2,400 RPM converter. If you use a converter with higher stall speed, you'll generate tremendous heat in both the converter and the transmission (FROM the converter). Heat is the number 1 enemy of an automatic transmission, as the fluid will break down rapidly.

If that level of converter doesn't give you the strip results you're after, there will be some necessary compromises to be made, if you still intend the drive the car on the street. A lower rear axle ratio (higher numerical) will be the easiest way to get "both". It WILL cost you in fuel consumption.

Jim

o lol i was talking for my truck, not this dudes car lol

o lol i was talking for my truck, not this dudes car lol
If you change the discussion subject from a Firebird to your truck, it's much better to start a new thread about your truck.

This will aviod confusion, aviod wasting time and get you a better answer.

oh my freakin god.... I DID NOT START THIS THREAD!!!!!!