Front end squeak.

My truck has a nasty squeak that can usually be heard when i hit a bump, or take a hard turn. I know its from the front cause if i push on the hood it makes the noise. I thought it was a bushing so i sprayed some silicon lube all over the bushings and it went away for about 3 weeks and it just came back. Im going to order the energy suspension kit for it, im also getting ready to replace the ball joints and some of the steering components. But what can be the direct cause of this squeak so i can fix it the first time.

My truck has a nasty squeak that can usually be heard when i hit a bump, or take a hard turn. I know its from the front cause if i push on the hood it makes the noise. I thought it was a bushing so i sprayed some silicon lube all over the bushings and it went away for about 3 weeks and it just came back. Im going to order the energy suspension kit for it, im also getting ready to replace the ball joints and some of the steering components. But what can be the direct cause of this squeak so i can fix it the first time.

Well, with pushing down the front of the truck and squeaking it can be

Body bushings
Shocks
control arm bushings
ball joints

You seem to be on the right track, just make sure you thouroughly grease the control arm bushings when you put them in..

Ball joints.

Dry shocks.

Ever grease the 10-11 grease fittings on the front of your truck?

I put silicone oil on the control arm bushings, body bushings and the sterring rack bushings. I have put lube in the zerk fittings every oil change, however the prvious owners where pretty shitty with maintnence, i found out the hard way. Im geting ready to get moog ball joints through either trucking store or some of the mcquay or whatever they are off ebay i plan on about 50-100 a set, im also getting the urethane kit for the control arms and body mounts (yes i can handle a bumpy ride). I havent lowered the front yet i have the 2" blocks in the rear and im going to do the torsion bar trick. But i figured ball joints or CA bushings.

Get under your vehicle and grease the fittings, by the sounds of it you barely have ever done it.

Sqeaking balljoints doesn't mean you have to replace them, it means you have to get under there and put the effort into actually greasing them. Take the weight off each side when you load them with grease. Balljoints don't accept grease well with all the weight on them.

Treat each squeak as a little call for help..."Grease me! Grease me! Grease Me!"

Well ive owned the truck since 98k miles, and it has 121 on it now. I do an oil change every 3k miles and i would grease them every time, now i never did take weight off of it but i did grease all the zerk fittings. Im going to replace them anyways im getting the truck to a good condition before i drop the new motor in. So tomorrow i will put it on the lift and grease them. Thanks for the help LT

Also extend your oil change interval.

All oils now can go to 5000 miles with ease.

I just switched to synthetic blend 10w-40, it has some nasty lifter noise though. So i plan on building a short block, as soon as i finish my honda.

I can get nice discounts on edelbrock parts, so im going to get reman heads, cam, lifters, holley intake with bigger tbi, headers, and x-pipe exhaust and basani mufflers. Im also looing into an msd, and making a custom velocity stack to go on top of the tbi below the filter. And if it all goes right il either do a vortech, or paxton. And my uncles has a crazy idea to take a eaton m112 off of a cobra and make some brackets and have it sit on the side of the engine and force air into a air-water cooler then into the tbi, whatever way it goes it might be awhile before i can get to the forced induction setup. since im working on the exterior, and custom interior an N/A setup should be awsome.

You are using too heavy of an oil which will cause the lifter noise.

Do a engine flush and clear out all the sludge in you lifters and also replace your PCV valve.

Also, I bet you are using a Fram filter.

What grade oil you recomend i used to use 10w-30 and it sounds the same as it did. And i will do an oil flush this weekend then, and replace the PCV valve. AS for the filter ive been using ac delco.

5w30 is all you need.

Flush the engine for a good 30-40 minutes AT IDLE.

Ac Delco is good, does the noise go away, or is it just at the start when it is warming up?

Its loudest when you first start it up, but if i leave it idling after ive drivien it you can still hear it. After i get to work which is about an hour drive i can still hear it its not as loud but its noticable.

Just sounds like a dirty lifter that needs flushing.

The colder it gets the worse it will get too especially with the 40 weight in there.

Try the gunk engine flush at Walmart and allow it to idle for 30 minutes minimum in a hot engine. Make sure you drina a quart out of the crankcase first.

Remember, ONLY IDLE!!!

Get under your vehicle and grease the fittings, by the sounds of it you barely have ever done it.

Sqeaking balljoints doesn't mean you have to replace them, it means you have to get under there and put the effort into actually greasing them. Take the weight off each side when you load them with grease. Balljoints don't accept grease well with all the weight on them.

Treat each squeak as a little call for help..."Grease me! Grease me! Grease Me!"
I like that BlazerLT that's a good one.