Brake pads

ok new problem guys my brake pads were shot just my rotors slammed against metal ok so i got new pads and i went to a shop to install them and everythings good so i go out to test drive and it doesnt seem any diff like i gotta push the breaks down harder to stop any idea why???like puttin new pads shouldnt that be like tap brake isntant stop lol or is somethign wrong here ???

the only thing i can think of is that you got air in the system when the new pads were put on, make sure all air is bled out of the system then try again. Remember when bleeding, start with the passenger rear tire, then driver rear, then passenger front, then driver front!!! Hope this helps!!! Good luck

what is this bleeding???? can i do it myself ?

do u have disc all the way around or disc in front and drum in back? then ill explain how to bleed the brakes!

disc in front drums in back

ok, you dont have to take it to a shop to bleed it, you can do it yourself but with help from one person, family friend, anyone can do it...

1) start with pass. rear tire, find the bleeder screw on the back of the wheel cylinder, just a little screw with a hole in the end of it.

2) now tell the person sitting in driver seat to pump the brake pedal until it gets hard to where they cant push it anymore, but not to force it, and when it gets hard tell them to HOLD pushing on it

3) then you take what i think is a 10mm wrench and loosen the bleeder screw and you will either see fulid shoot out, or hear air come out and then fluid or both at the same time, like fluid and bubbles, like air sneaking out.

4) if you do this and see NOTHING but fluid come out then that tire is done, but i usually do it 2-3 times to make sure everythings out, better safe then sorry! (P.S) but when you do open the bleeder screw the person in the driver seat will feel the pedal go to the floor, when that does happen they have to keep holding with enough pressure to keep it on the floor until you close the bleeder screw then the can release it.

5) now after they release the pedal and you want to bleed the same one again, just repeat and tell them to pump the pedal until it gets hard and for them to HOLD it, and you repeat by opening the bleeder screw and releasing whatever it may be, but when ONLY fluid comes out then your done with that tire, then just repeat same exact way with the rest!!

BUT REMEMBER, START WITH THE PASSENGER REAR, THEN GO TO DRIVER REAR, THEN PASSENGER FRONT, THEN DRIVER FRONT, AND THEN TEST DRIVE IT, AND ALSO MAKE SURE WHILE YOUR DOING THIS BLEDING PROCESS, YOU KEEP AN EYE ON THE BRAKE FLUID RESEVOIR TO MAKE SURE YOU KEEP TOPPING IT OFF WITH FLUID WHEN BLEEDING IT, DO NOT LET THAT RESEVOIR GO EMPTY, THEN YOULL GET YOURSELF INTO SOME HEAVY PAIN IN THE ASS BRAKE BLEEDING, LOL!! WELL, SORRY IT TOOK SO MUCH TO WRITE, BUT ITS NOT AS HARD AS YOU MAY THINK, ITS ACTUALLY PRETTY SIMPLE, HOPEFULLY MY DIRECTIONS WERE EASY ENOUGH TO UNDERSTAND AND IF YOU GIVE IT A SHOT, PLEASE LET ME KNOW HOW IT TURNED OUT, IF NOT THEN ILL GIVE YOU MY NEXT OPINION ON WHAT I THINK IT MAY BE!! GOOD LUCK!!!

yo bro thanx ur a lifesaver lemme go call up my friend so i can do this shit and head to the car show tonight thanx again bro, u own... thanx:smokin:

no prob man, hope everything works out!!!!!

You might not hav to bleed the back if you only put on front brakes.
When you pushed the piston back it screws with the ABS, you realy should release the pressure from the bleeders on the calipers.

Also you should bleed them Right rear, Left Front, Left rear, Right front.

right being the passengerside, left the drivers.

ok, number one, even if he did just replace the front, he was having problems prior to that which is why i told him to bleed all 4, and every shop ive been to or worked with bleeds right rear, left rear, right front left front, so i dont know who told you that!

ok, number one, even if he did just replace the front, he was having problems prior to that which is why i told him to bleed all 4, and every shop ive been to or worked with bleeds right rear, left rear, right front left front, so i dont know who told you that!

MR GM him self :D

And 23 years of working on cars !!!!

I posted for the 2000 and up he has a 2002 !!!

What you listed might work on 97-99 models :thumbsup:

well, u got me on the 23 years bacause i only have 16, but as far as im concerned it works on all models, my son has a 95 and its the same as doing it on a 2000, or 02, its the same way!!! so the next thing you should check is whats wrong with the school you went to, unless you consider yourself a mechanic but your actually a "backyard" mechanic! sorry buddy, just tellin ya what i know

it all has to do with the ABS module, and the proportioning valves, and the fact that those years are very different. Especially the 95 to 2000 !

BTW I went to Linconl Tech MC ASE , 88-94 then spent some time 3yrs at Purdue Enginering, and i am still certified.

Yes it might work the way youre doing it, but its NOT the right way,
and can very well screw up some very very expensive ABS Dealer parts.
And So, no one likes to buy dealer parts,
nor do they like having thier brakes fail.

....And So, no one likes to buy dealer parts,
nor do they like having thier brakes fail.

uhh yea, bad situation... :thumbsdow

uhh yea, bad situation...

:rofl:

Ok, I can see logic behind both bleeding patterns. Can you guys explain this to me. They both make sense, what's the big difference?

its the way the brake lines are ran through the proportioning valves and ABS modulator.
The wheel speed sensors are different too.

The ABS system on the 95' is like an apple,
and the 2000 and up are like oranges.
Totally different systems.