1990 camaro rs probelems

:banghead: ] i was out one day driving has u do , then the car shut down completly. luckly i was only down the road . got the car home checked the battery ok. put the key in nothing. tokk the starter out cheched it ,fine! so checked all the fuses ,good . thought maybe vat syatem ! took the steering wheel off checked the i-switch wires broken ,so changed the switch and key put it back together :banghead: nothing help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! anyone

edited by wrightz28 - font removed as it destracted me, trying to find the original problem here.

sounds like it could possibly be a fuel pump on its way out

if you turn the key to the on position you should be able to hear the fuel pump. Turn your car on, get out and put your head by the gas tank. If you don't hear like a buzzing, kick the gas tank a few times and see if it will come on. If still nothing you are going to have to pull the tank and change the fuel pump.

if you turn the key to the on position you should be able to hear the fuel pump. Turn your car on, get out and put your head by the gas tank. If you don't hear like a buzzing, kick the gas tank a few times and see if it will come on. If still nothing you are going to have to pull the tank and change the fuel pump.turn the key on nothing on the switch but the front lamps work and lighterand the radio , thanks !!!!!!!!:banghead:

If there is no indication of the fuel pump coming on, check and make sure the t/p fuse by the battery on fender wall is good. From there I'd check the relay on the firewall by the brake booster.

checked fuse ok !

Check the relay, or jumper 12V power to the 'G' terminal on the ALDL to manually operate the pump. Some pumps are noisy, others are very quiet (especially the roller vane pumps),so listen carefully.

Remember that the pump will only run for a two-second prime cycle, then remain off until either the engine is cranked (distributor reference pulses) or the ignition is powered down for at least 20 seconds.

thanks! I'll try that today !later

how did your car shut off? did it shudder a lot before it shut off? or did it smoothly cut off..
if it shudderd-> fuel problem
if it was smooth->electric (spark) problem..

most likely, anyways..

just shut-off on the road !!!

Pull the coil wire from the distributor and install a good spark plug into the boot. Lay the plug on something metal, crank it over and check for spark. If it has spark, install the coil wire, remove a spark plug wire and do the same. If it doesn't have fire at the plug wire, it's the cap/rotor. If it does, install the plug wire.
Remove a main vacuum line (PCV valve works good) and shoot some carb cleaner down the tube. Crank it over and see if it will try to start, or if it will start and die. If it does start/tries, then most likely it's the fuel pump. If the fuel pump went out, it's caused by a plugged fuel filter.

You don't want to guess at what's wrong and throw parts at it. That'll just cost you extra.

Check for fire and post back.

the car doesn't crank at all . nothing with the key!!!!!!!!

Are you saying the starter isn't turning the engine over? If so, that's not fuel pump related..

Fusible link, anyone? VATS would not have shut it off, but would prevent restart depending upon the failure mode.

First thing i'd do would be to test for battery voltage at the starter, then test for battery voltage on the wire coming from the ign. switch while the key was turned to start..

battery and starter ok cheched it thanks !!!!!!!!!!

First thing i'd do would be to test for battery voltage at the starter, then test for battery voltage on the wire coming from the ign. switch while the key was turned to start..
tested battery ok change switch still no crank!!!!!!!help anyone please 111

Pull the coil wire from the distributor and install a good spark plug into the boot. Lay the plug on something metal, crank it over and check for spark. If it has spark, install the coil wire, remove a spark plug wire and do the same. If it doesn't have fire at the plug wire, it's the cap/rotor. If it does, install the plug wire.
Remove a main vacuum line (PCV valve works good) and shoot some carb cleaner down the tube. Crank it over and see if it will try to start, or if it will start and die. If it does start/tries, then most likely it's the fuel pump. If the fuel pump went out, it's caused by a plugged fuel filter.

You don't want to guess at what's wrong and throw parts at it. That'll just cost you extra.

Check for fire and post back.
WON'T CRANK TO CHECK!!!!!!!

Is the switch sending battery voltage to the starter?

Is the switch sending battery voltage to the starter?
just changed the key switch and the switch on the coluum ,but nothing when u turn the key on yet!!!!!!!, but when i cross the wires at the starter the cranks the engine .

:banghead: :banghead: still won't crank!!!!!!!!!help!!!!!!!!!:banghead: :banghead:

Has to be VATS related then :dunno:

Has to be VATS related then :dunno:
u think so i put a new key and switch!!!!!!!

You never said whether the small terminal on the starter had 12 volts when you had the key in crank position...

You never said whether the small terminal on the starter had 12 volts when you had the key in crank position...
going to check that this weekend thanks!!!!!!!!

Fusible link, anyone? VATS would not have shut it off, but would prevent restart depending upon the failure mode.

I'm guessing this is not your primary mode of transportation. That was two weeks ago. Replacing the ignition lock cylinder does not address the VATS, and may have aggrevated the situation if the resistance of the new cylinder and key is incorrect.

You never said whether the small terminal on the starter had 12 volts when you had the key in crank position...
Just got it back in garage checking if the starter has 12 volts thanks !!!!!

I'm guessing this is not your primary mode of transportation. That was two weeks ago. Replacing the ignition lock cylinder does not address the VATS, and may have aggrevated the situation if the resistance of the new cylinder and key is incorrect.
the new switch is the same resistance thanks !!!!!!!!

Just a few more questions: Do any of the instrument panel warning lamps illuminate? Do any of the power accessories operate (radio, wipers, windows)? What happens to the SECURITY lamp when the ignition is tunred to the RUN position? When you hold the key in the START position, does the temperature gauge climb? Do the dash warning lamps illuminate? Have you tried starting the engine with the transmission in neutral?

You never said whether the small terminal on the starter had 12 volts when you had the key in crank position...
yes !!!!!!!!

Thanks 4 all the help ,I sorted out the problem finally. :grinyes: talk 2 u guys again !:evillol: later.:banghead:

Starter?

Starter?
no not the starter !!!!i bypassed the vat system to start the car thanks

Ahh, I see.

Ahh, I see.
Thanks 4 asking ,I jumped the vat system from acc to start the car running good so far!!!!!!!!!

Has to be VATS related then :dunno:

I thnk everybody that contributed to this thread and said the same thing atleast twice is owed a beer :lol:

Good to hear it's found

Next itme, can we stick to standard fonts and whats up with the punctuations??????????

I thnk everybody that contributed to this thread and said the same thing atleast twice is owed a beer :lol:

Good to hear it's found

Next itme, can we stick to standard fonts and whats up with the punctuations??????????
thanks ,later.