Engine Rebuild not working

Ok just to let you know some of the specs quickly

1993 Eclipse 4g63 non turbo motor. Timing belt broke and just got done rebuilding the engine. I bought a turbo head and used that instead of trying to rebuild the other one. I also replaced the rod bearings incase those were bad.

SO Everything is back together and now it turns over and starts but it won't idle right.

I checked to see if the timing belt is in the correct position because at first I thought it could have been off a tooth. Everything is correct though. So now I was really baffled. Then someone told me I may have the cam sensor backwards. So I flipped it 180 degrees. THAT HELPED in the upper rpms though. It still won't Idle though. The only way it starts is when the throttle is completely open. It sputters and sounds like it is backfiring a little in the intake. The check engine light doesn't come on either so I don't think it is a computer thing.

So I am wondering if anyone has any suggestions on what it could be
I am thinking that it could be the timing belt tensioner. The reason is because I took it for a spin and it runs great while past 2000 RPM however it dies anywhere below that. has anyone ever had these go out before? any other Ideas. I am really looking for help and I don't like this guessing game what it could be.

THANKS

Are all the sensors plugged in?

Tension wont cause it to not run unless the timing skips. Sounds like a misadjusted IAC, wrong position on the CAS, boost leak, there is like 9 billion things that could cause that. Check the sensors, make sure the clamps are tight all the way through the intake system, and adjust the CAS and IAC then see whats up.

Wow quick replies!! thank you

What is the IAC that you speek of?

The CAS I kept ajusting to ear because it doesn't Idle and there isn't a really good way to get a reading with a light gun.

Why can't you stick a timing light on it?

Did you jumper that deal? You cant just turn it without doing it right.

EDIT: The IAC is the Idle Air Control... basically controls the amount of air going into the car at idle.

Have you checked the throttle cable lately? That can be a cause of weird idles.

We did jumper the connection. It is a plug by the fire wall. There is a cap on it and inside there is a little plug. I grounded that to a connection onto the fire wall. The problem is that the car just sputters below 2000 RPM and it pops, it is just not running right below that point. Because it is hard to keep the engine at a certin RPM it is hard to adjust the timing. We did get it close to where it should be however the thing still pops and the idle problem hasn't changed when the timing should be where it should. The IAC is the screw on the Throttle body right? It was set correctly when I took everything apart. I did play with it a bit and didn't change the problem much. I will tighten the throttle cable to see if that changes but I don't think it has to do with that. It just seems like to me that it is off one tooth on one of the cams but I spun the engine to TDC and checked the sprockets on the cam and everything lines up.
I am just puzzled. I will play with the IAC again to see if that changes anything. I will keep you guys informed on what I find or what happens.
It may be I just haven't tuned it correctly yet.

I don't know if this makes a difference, the car has been sitting since march and there was 3/4 of fuel in the tank. I put a can of sea foam in there and splashed it around a little bit but do you think it is bad gas?

The gas may be "bad" but it wouldn't cause it to run bad just at certain rpms. Try filling it up completely with new gas to dilute the old stuff.

Ok it has been a while since I posted this however I did find out what the problem was with the car. Just to let everyone know I feel dumb about this however I have learned a lot from this engine rebuild.

And the reason that the engine wasn't running right....(drum role!)...

I FORGOT TO PLUG IN THE BRAKE BOOST TO THE INTAKE MANIFOLD

supid stupid stupid (while hitting head on wall)

So plugged everything back in started with a lower idle then put the timing light on it, timed it out which caused it to idle higher, then adjusted the idle position screw and it is running beautifuly!!!
I love resurecting dead veicles that have been sitting in my drive way for a half of a year. and knowing that the engine rebuild was a complete sucess. I did something right!!!!!

So the only issue is I am leaking out powersteering fuid from the bolt that holds down the banjo line. Is there suppost to be some sort of a copper washer that goes inbetween the nut and the banjo?

theres always a seal or washer on every fluid fitting

where would be a place I could get these? I went to the autoparts store and they looked at me like I was crazy.

call up mitsubishi and ask them. they have all the vehicle parts and how they are assembled with EVERY single little bolt, nut, washer, flange, whatever all on their computers probably going all the way back to 1989 talons. ask them about the power steering system and about the washer or seal on the particular part you are talking about. chances are they have it in stock, and it'll be less than $5. or, look at that washer or seal and get one exactly like it at an auto parts or hardware store(if its something as simple as a washer) and get that for like $.38