Grand Prix help!!

Hello. I have a 2000 Grand Prix 3.8 with 60000 mile, about 15000 miles ago it started having problems at 2000 rpm's to around 2700 rpm's, when it gets a little load on it it acts like you are tapping the gas pedal quickly. If I let off the gas pedal a little or press it a little further it quits. I tapped the brake pedal and held to di-engage the converter to see if this helped and it does sometimes. I have changed the air and fuel filter and the throttle position sensor but no difference. The sevice engine light has never come on and it does it whether the car is hot or cold.

Now my second problem. My A/C blower only works on the highest setting, in positions 1-4 it won't, my daytime running lights also go off unless it is in position 5 or completely off. The weird part is on occasions the A/C will work as it is suppose to. Any hekp would be appreciated.

Chuck

Welcome to AF.

It sounds like fishbite or chuggle. It could as simple as spark plugs and/or wires or TCC related problems with the tranny. The TPS was one remedy according to the GM TSB out on the problem.

Try this and no guarantee it will work but worth a try. Disconnect the battery negative cable overnight and then see what it does the next day. A few GP owners claim that this has worked. Make sure radio Theftlock is not active or have your codes before disconnecting the battery.

On the HVAC problem try the blower motor resistor first if you have a manual HVAC system. Blower motor control module for digital climate control.

I will try that tonight thanks.

Can you tell me where the blower resistor is located?

I will try that tonight thanks.

Can you tell me where the blower resistor is located?

Checkout the tech procedure below. It is behind the blower motor so that must be removed first.

Click here. (http://www.clubgp.com/cgi-asp/mods.asp?modid=150)

Good luck.

.......It is behind the blower motor so that must be removed first.

its a pain in the neck to get to :grinyes:

its a pain in the neck to get to :grinyes:

Hey whats up JC? In the back (lower lumbar area) too. Speaking of which, it is worse in a GM N body car. You have to be a midget to work on it....lol. :lol:

For the blower resistor, if you're a bigger guy, remove the passenger seat. It gives you a larger,flatter work area. God never intended our butts to be above our heads for long (and those door sills will kill your ribcage if you try it from outside).

Disconnecting the battery seems to have fixed the chuggle problem THANKS! That had been bugging me for a while.

I changed the blower motor resistor and still doesn't work on the 1-4 settings. By the way it is a manual A/C, what other things can I try?

At least some good news. Just see how it is once you get some more miles on the car before we say the battery disconnect resolved the issue.

I had to have you try the BMR first before breaking the bads news to you. That is not a good sign. You may have one or more flaky contacts in the ignition switch and harness causing the HVAC problem since it is affecting the DRL. This is a common problem.

That is what I was afraid of, well I guess it is time to buy an ignition switch. Is there anything special I need to do when I replace the switch?

That is what I was afraid of, well I guess it is time to buy an ignition switch. Is there anything special I need to do when I replace the switch?

Are you planning a DIY job? If so let me know and I will post the R&R procedure for you.

Yes just as soon as the switch gets here.

Yes just as soon as the switch gets here.


Here is a written procedure for R&R of Grand Prix Ignition Switch and Harness Assembly that works. A lot of us have used it. There may be some minor variation due to model years but overall it should help. Good luck!


BEFORE BEGINING THIS REPAIR REMOVE THE NEGATIVE TERMINAL FROM THE BATTERY. IT IS NOT POSSIBLE TO DO THE REPAIR WITHOUT DOING THIS.

Look inside the slot where the tilt steering knob is located. There is a black metal piece where the knob inserts into the tilt mechanism. Pry it back slightly with a small screwdriver. One from an electronics tool set will work. While you have it pried, pull the knob out and it should release.

Remove the two screws from the bottom of the steering column cover and remove the cover.

Remove the two screws that hold the top steering column cover in place.

Insert the ignition key into the key cylinder and turn the key clockwise to the start position. Nothing will happen because you have disconnected the battery prior to starting this project. Lift the top steering column cover being careful not to break it because it is still held in place by the ignition key cylinder. You will see with your mirror near the back end of the cylinder housing a small hole. Stick a small allen wrench in the hole, this will release the key cylinder so that it can be pulled out. Once the key cylinder is removed the column top cover is free to be removed.

The black box below the key cylinder with all of the wires coming out of it is the ignition switch that you are changing. Look at the switch you have purchased for this repair. Notice that the small white plug with two wires attached has a tab on the side that can be pushed down, this is the release for the plug-in. Using your mirror you will see that plug-in against the ignition switch housing where it plugs in. Using a small screw driver press the release tab in against the plug and rotate the plug 90 degrees to the right to remove it. To do otherwise may break the plug.

Remove the plug from the white key release device by inserting a small screw driver and pressing the release tab on it.

Undo the two screws holding the ignition switch.

Undo the plug at the opposite end of the ignition switch by unscrewing the bolt in the center of the plug and unplugging it.

There is a black wiring plug on top and a gray one on the bottom of the ignition switch plug that need to be removed. This is done by prying the center of the plug case where it meets the ignition harness plug while sliding it forward.

Cut any tywraps holding the wire harness in place and feed it out of the dash.

To install do the reverse of the above, and tywrap the new harness into place. Be sure to properly align the key cylinder when replacing it in the housing and if the key will not come out of the cylinder there is a silver key release button at the bottom of the white device in front of the ignition switch. Press it and the key will come out. Also when replacing the ignition switch make sure that the slot in the switch is properly aligned with the corresponding part on the steering column that fits in the slot.

Hey whats up JC? In the back (lower lumbar area) too. Speaking of which, it is worse in a GM N body car. You have to be a midget to work on it....lol.


I do lay with my lower back on the doorsill,
but I put the passenger floor mat(carpeted 1's are nice:)) over the opening. It kind of supports more of the lower back.

I'm 6'3", so it gets my neck in a pinch.
After a couple of those, I go to the chiropractor :bigthumb:

I actually think the Grand Prixs are the worst.
They hav that extra screw way in back :shakehead
what a PITA !

I do lay with my lower back on the doorsill,
but I put the passenger floor mat(carpeted 1's are nice:)) over the opening. It kind of supports more of the lower back.

I'm 6'3", so it gets my neck in a pinch.
After a couple of those, I go to the chiropractor :bigthumb:

I actually think the Grand Prixs are the worst.
They hav that extra screw way in back :shakehead
what a PITA !

6'3"? How's the weather up there. :lol:

You're in the same situation as my oldest son. He is just shy of 6'2". He has his seat adjusted all the way back and I hate it when I let him drive mine.

On that BMR screw, on the re-install I leave it out.