92 3.1 not getting spark

I'm trying to test them. should there be a resistance between the two terminals? how can you check if it is the coil pack or the modual (ICM) that is the problem.
Ok I have checked the coil packs and the OHMS reading says that the coil packs are good if I did it right. I'm still not sure what the resistance is though.

I don't know what else to check the engine is getting gass and the coil packs are suposidly good yet there is no spark. Any suggestions? . . .

Welcome to AF, what are you trying to do check spark one coil or no spark at all and the engine won't run. Check this link., http://autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0e/c6/ef/0900823d800ec6ef.jsp

I'm having a no spark issue with my 92 Lumina 3.1L Euro. At first, whenever I would try to start the car, it would turn over, but after a few tries, it would start. Everything sounded normal, just not firing at first. Now, the car doesn't start at all, but it does turn over. I've recently (couple months ago) changed the plugs, wires, and fuel filter. I have a spare car, identical but the interior color, but it's transmission is going. I changed the ignition control module and the coil packs from the working car, but it still won't start. I've been told that it is the ignition switch, but I've not been able to find good instructions online on how to get to it to swap it out. Does this sound like a possible solution? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

I just wanted to add that the Lumina in question had a remote starting system installed, and I've removed it completely because the car would start automatically inconsistently. And yes, I made sure that I wasn't accidentally hitting the buttons when the keys were in my pocket. Sometimes the car would start in 10, 15, 20, 30, 60 minute intervals. Hope someone can help.

I assume you have actually tested for spark, not just assuming you have no spark since you have fuel at the rail? IF so, have you checked the ECM fuse? Also, the ECMs in these cars are a high failure rate part (especially GM service #1227727). You can try a "tap test" by gently tapping on the ECM to see if the car will start. If it does, and continued tapping causes it to die again, indicates a bad ECM. Passing this tap test doesn't rule out the ECM as a possible cause, but failing it fingers it as the culprit.

Thanks for the response. I have tested for spark, and I have checked the fuel pressure. Where is the ECM located? If it is faulty, I will swap it with my other 92 Lumina's. Do I have to swap the PROM if this is the case?

The ECM is under the plastic cover in the passenger side front fender area. You will need to swap the proms to be sure it's calibrated to your car. Try the tap test first before you waste your time swapping them, and make sure the service numbers match. If they don't, post the two service numbers, and I'll run them to see if they may still be interchangeable.

Well, I did the tap test with no luck. Both service numbers are 1227727 on the cars. Do you think I should go ahead and swap them?

Okay, I swapped the ECMs but kept the original PROMs to the cars. Still not starting. What should I do next? I really appreciate your help.

you can bring your coild packs and ignition moodule to autozone or a place like it for testing. If the whole assemble check out ok, have them check it again, and again. Just to get her nice and hot. If everything checks out, my next best guess would be a crank sensor or ecm. You can test the crank sensor with a scope or even a DVOM by probing a wire at the ignition module. (not sure what one though).

Okay, I know that the coil packs and ignition control module are fine. I pulled them from a running 92 3.1L Lumina (just has a bad transmission). I also swapped the ECMs, but kept the PROM. So my next step is the crank sensor? Is it possible that it could be the ignition switch? How do I get to the ignition switch?

I would tell you to go ahead and change the crank sensor out. What you described as your problem happened to me on a 2.8L (basically same engine...just a lil smaller :) ) and it turned out to be the crank sensor. It was turning over just fine...just wouldnt start. I just hope you dont have to go through what I did to take the damn thing out. Hope this helps.

CKPS's (crank position sensors) aer a common issue on these cars, but can be a PITA to change. It's located in the back of the block, just above the oil pan rail, and held in by one 8mm headed bolt. The problem is the sealing o-ring gets stuck in the block, and you can't get the old one out. If the old one comes out easily, then it's a 10 min job. If it's stuck, and the sensor breaks while attempting to remove it, it's a weekend-long, cuss-word inspiring PITA job!!

I have a 1992 Lumina 3.1L Euro sedan and I have the same problem. It would run for a while and quit so I took the ICM out and had it checked (twice) and was told to change the crank sensor. I tried and failed to get it out and after breaking the plastic housing off I now have vise grips clamped to what is left of the internal wires. So I unbolted the engine torque mounts and jacking the motor up a liitle bit then tilting the motor forward to get a better pulling
angle, I have pulled with all my might and it won't come out. Any suggestions? Will I have to remove the oil pan to push it out from the inside? If so, is there an easier way than pulling the motor? @#$%&* Whoever designed this should be hung by his .... whatever..... man this is unbelieveable ... I have never had as much trouble with a car than this Chevy style of ignition .... Please help if you can.

I would tell you to go ahead and change the crank sensor out. What you described as your problem happened to me on a 2.8L (basically same engine...just a lil smaller :) ) and it turned out to be the crank sensor. It was turning over just fine...just wouldnt start. I just hope you dont have to go through what I did to take the damn thing out. Hope this helps.

What did you have to do?

What did you have to do?


I actually had to drop the oil pan. I broke off all the plastic connector piece and the damn thing wasnt budging. So yeah....I dropped the oil pan and very carefully used a thin flat screwdriver to get underneath it to push up. Once I got past the stupid O ring it came out easy. But yeah in order to drop the oil pan on this car (Corsica w/2.8) the starter had to come off and something else & the damn oil pan was put in some weird ass way too. Major PITA but it fixed that problem.....the fuel regulator blew on me too:banghead:

Where is the fuel regulator because changing the CKPS didn't help.

I had a problem where my car wouldnt start when it was warm but when cold it started fine i took it in and it was the icm and crank sensor

Let's go back to square one. The FPR hs nothing to do with a no spark situation. Try spraying carb clean or wd-40 in the throttle body and see if the car starts then dies. This will indicate a fuel delivery problem. If it doesn't, then spark is your issue, in which changing a FPR will be useless.

I had this same trouble the ignition went out and the fuel injectors stoped firing. I change the crank and cam sensor and nothing. come to find out it was just a bad ground on the engine and a bad positive on the starter. I suggest cleaning all the grounds on the block and th positive lead.

I turn the key and nothing. I know the battery is in good shape and has a full charge but I've been having a problem due to the Anti Knock sensor so I hooked the battery charger up to it, BUT, I was half asleep or ??? :shakehead
I hooked it up backwards (red to negative) for a second, as soon as I saw it spark of course I knew my mistake. Now when I turn the key, there is nothing. All accessories turn on and it looks normal but when I turn the key, no connection to the starter. Anyone have a cure? I checked the fuses in the glovebox and they're fine, but I'm not sure where to go from here. HELP.
Anyone know what to check and where? I.E. fuse link other fuses?