Storing my caprice for the winter

Every winter I store my 88 caprice for about 6 or 7 months.

Is it better to store a car under cover, and just forget about it? Or is it better for the car to go out and do a cold-start every week or so, and let the car get warmed up, and maybe drive it back and forth a bit?

I know starting a car cold is hard on it, but I'm just worried about seals and gaskets and moving parts drying out / seizing up after being parked for several months.

Just curious what the 'recommended' approach is!

Thanks

Every winter I store my 88 caprice for about 6 or 7 months.

Is it better to store a car under cover, and just forget about it? Or is it better for the car to go out and do a cold-start every week or so, and let the car get warmed up, and maybe drive it back and forth a bit?

I know starting a car cold is hard on it, but I'm just worried about seals and gaskets and moving parts drying out / seizing up after being parked for several months.

Just curious what the 'recommended' approach is!

Thanks

Why do you store it? Just curious.

Personally, I wouldn't run it any less than once or twice a week, let it run long enough to keep a charge on the battery.

I live in Canada! So once the snow flies in early Nov, I park the car for several months. Just to avoid the road salts.

I get complimented on how the car looks like it just came out of the showroom, and just like to keep it looking like that.

I just sometimes wonder if I'm really doing the car any favors by firing it up in January when its 0 degrees out. I wanna keep the car happy, but just not sure if that's the right thing to do.

And i've got another caprice thats more suitable for the winter months.

Thx

I've been storing cars for the last 10 years without starting them in the winter (I live near Toronto). I dont even disconnect the battery any more. This spring that 10 year old Delco had no problem turning over my 275hp 327 in my 1968 Parisienne after around 5 months storage. Last year it was in storage for eleven months and the battery turned the engine over, no problem. I do undercoat this car every year though. Actually, this car's been undercoated every year from new, so it's real nice doing maintenance as there is no rust, anywhere. So, try to save your car if you can, cause it'll keep on going if it doesn't rust away!

all I can think of stuff to do a car when storing, is putting a gas stabilzer in the tank, getting a oil change as soon as its warm outside, and letting it warm up everyonce and a while.

I've stored numerous vehicles over the last 20 years or so and this is some of the things I do. First, I change the oil and filter before putting it in storage, as used motor oil in the engine contains acids and other byproducts of combustion that left in the engine for an extended length of time can cause damage. I also make sure the battery is fully charged. I also use gas stabilizer in the fuel tank and make sure it has run for awhile to get circulated through the fuel system. Also check your coolant to make sure it is rated for the proper freeze protection during the winter. I've also used mothballs and other rodent deterrants over the years as I've had problems in the past with mice and other small creatures getting into the vehicle and making a home.
Some people I've seen also jack up their vehicle to keep the tires off the ground while in storage. I haven't done it but it might prevent damage to your tires. I'd also make sure that your tires are properly inflated before putting it away for the winter. I also do not start my vehicle during the winter any more. I used to but there were some years I couldn't gain access to my vehicle and it didn't get started. There were no problems come Spring, (this also goes in line with the fresh oil in the engine during storage I mentioned earlier.)

I reccomand storing your battery inside, in your home or warm garage. Also care about vinil. I dont know what praparatives do you have in us.

I reccomand storing your battery inside, in your home or warm garage. Also care about vinil. I dont know what praparatives do you have in us.

As for the fuel, a bottle of Sta-Bil in the tank will help out with the gasoline issue. If you're not intending to run it while it's in storage, I'd recommend a bottle of STP or Lucas or Slick50 run for about a hundred miles or so, then the coolant completely drained out of the engine (this includes removing the block drain plugs on each side near the oil pan rails).

The STP/Lucas/Slick50 will leave a film on the bearings that will stay, so there's less chance of spinning one upon startup after months of sitting. Keep the battery charged during this time (use a trickle charger on it once a week or so).

If you follow this, you should be ok.

I also do all the stuff '97ventureowner does, but I do have a comment about the mice. I store my car in a steel quanset hut on my parents farm. My father also stores his fishing boat in there. Every spring the mice have eaten the fuel lines some where along the way in his boat, and every spring I don't even have as much as a crumb in the engine compartment from the mice. I think there's something in the undercoating they don't like which keeps them away. He's tried every thing under the sun (except undercoating) to deter them but to no avail.

I also do all the stuff '97ventureowner does, but I do have a comment about the mice. I store my car in a steel quanset hut on my parents farm. My father also stores his fishing boat in there. Every spring the mice have eaten the fuel lines some where along the way in his boat, and every spring I don't even have as much as a crumb in the engine compartment from the mice. I think there's something in the undercoating they don't like which keeps them away. He's tried every thing under the sun (except undercoating) to deter them but to no avail.
That's an interesting take on the undercoating versus the mice. I hadn't given it much thought. I suspect they are getting into the vehicle from some small opening(s). I live in a rural area where they are plentiful :lol: I bought a '95 Roadmaster last fall and there were no signs of mice anywhere in the car. Within a week I found droppings in my trunk. My '97 Venture minivan had the problem bad , and I found out they were getting in through the cabin air filter. They ate through the filter material and somehow popped the small door open to gain access to the inside of the van.
As far as going the route of draining the cooling system and removing the freeze plugs, that might be a little excessive. Our winters here in Central NY are long and we usually get out our vehicles from storage in late April and drive them from May to September. I haven't drained my cooling system on any of my vehicles, and my friends who also store their vehicles do not either . None of us have experienced any problems with the cooling system as a result. We just make sure our freeze protection falls below -30 to -40 degrees. It's an extra step in the storage process, and if you feel more comfortable in draining the system, then do it. It's more of a matter of personal choice. I also find that the newer style batteries seem to hold a charge in storage in the winter better than their counterparts of a few years back. I read an article where the cases are thicker. Perhaps that adds a bit of insulating value:dunno:

That's an interesting take on the undercoating versus the mice. I hadn't given it much thought. I suspect they are getting into the vehicle from some small opening(s). I live in a rural area where they are plentiful :lol: I bought a '95 Roadmaster last fall and there were no signs of mice anywhere in the car. Within a week I found droppings in my trunk. My '97 Venture minivan had the problem bad , and I found out they were getting in through the cabin air filter. They ate through the filter material and somehow popped the small door open to gain access to the inside of the van.
As far as going the route of draining the cooling system and removing the freeze plugs, that might be a little excessive. Our winters here in Central NY are long and we usually get out our vehicles from storage in late April and drive them from May to September. I haven't drained my cooling system on any of my vehicles, and my friends who also store their vehicles do not either . None of us have experienced any problems with the cooling system as a result. We just make sure our freeze protection falls below -30 to -40 degrees. It's an extra step in the storage process, and if you feel more comfortable in draining the system, then do it. It's more of a matter of personal choice. I also find that the newer style batteries seem to hold a charge in storage in the winter better than their counterparts of a few years back. I read an article where the cases are thicker. Perhaps that adds a bit of insulating value:dunno:

I didn't say remove freeze plugs, I said to remove the DRAIN plugs - one per cylinder bank, in the middle of the block just above the pan rails (the knock sensor, if present, usually is used on one side in place of a plug) to drain out the cooling system. This is done to prevent corrosion, not necessarily to prevent freezing (a good coolant will prevent that).

I didn't say remove freeze plugs, I said to remove the DRAIN plugs - one per cylinder bank, in the middle of the block just above the pan rails (the knock sensor, if present, usually is used on one side in place of a plug) to drain out the cooling system. This is done to prevent corrosion, not necessarily to prevent freezing (a good coolant will prevent that).
Sorry, my bad, I misread your post @ drain plugs and not freeze plugs. My intent though was to say that sometimes it is an unneccessary step to drain the coolant as I, myself, and others I know haven't done that and experienced no problems. If corrosion is a concern, then a regular maintenance schedule of cooling system flush and refills can take care of that problem. Also there are new products being introduced on the market, and some currently on store shelves, that act as a "boost" to your coolant. More people are resorting to these items to extend the life of their coolant, and add inhibitors and protectants to their cooling system. A good idea is to check the pH of your cooling system on a regular basis between changes (6 mos. or yearly), and before you put your vehicle in storage for any length of time.