Amp Fuse Keeps Blowin

I have a 1600 watt 4 ch. amp hooked up to only 2 12" subs. everything is hooked up properly and when turned on the amp and subs work. but after 2 minutes or so the 30A fuse on the amp itself blew. Does anyone know what I need to do to fix this??

a 30 amp fuse on a 1600 watt amp ? If you are bridging your amp channels, you might need to up the fuse size, the manual should give you some better answers.

What brand amp. i dont know anyone who crams that much power through even4 30amp fuses.

I run about 450 watts , 2 ohm, bridged on a 20 amp then into a 20 amp CB..

IIRC, a Memphis Audio 1000 runs a 50..

Like pimprolla said what brand and model amp is it and one of us on here will either already know the specs for it or be able to find the specs for fuses for it. Oh and btw welcome to automotive forums.

Yes welcome to the sight.

I always thought the general idea was 50watts rms=1amp. Im not 100% sure on this but i think im close.

Im thinking he either has it wired to the wrong impendance, or the 30 amp fuse isnt what belongs there. Im also thinking if thats the fuse that came in the amp fom factory it might be a cheaper brand amp like legacy, lanzar, pyle or pyramid. But i can only guess at this point.

it is a brand new pyle pla-4240. it came with a built-in 30A fuse. Also, if i should increase the fuse, how much?

Somethings wrong if it's blowing it original-rated fuse..You may want to make sure you aren't running a 2 ohm speaker on a 4 ohm stable amp, or anything else that could draw too much power...

Now what subs are hooked up and what wiring configuration. Also i cant find any rms ratings on that amp but by how they are usually done its probably closer to 150-200rms a channel and thats full power. But for $100 you cant complain.

If the wiring is right then go up in intervalls of 5amps not to exceed 40amps total cause that can cause some damage if it gets to hot.

Either that amp is pretty old or you wrote down the wrong model number but I can't find a pyle pla-4240 model amp information anywhere. Check the model number again and let us know

Now what subs are hooked up and what wiring configuration. Also i cant find any rms ratings on that amp but by how they are usually done its probably closer to 150-200rms a channel and thats full power. But for $100 you cant complain.

If the wiring is right then go up in intervalls of 5amps not to exceed 40amps total cause that can cause some damage if it gets to hot.
the subs are Dual xnbp12d 12" in a bandpass enclosure. impedance on the subs is 4-6 ohms. I have a 2-channel Dual 460 watt amp which works perfect, but when I switched the amps everything was hooked up properly, but then the fuse blew. The pyle is a 4-channel and the subs are the only thing running off of it right now(until i get some 6x9's). They are bridged.

This is the amp.
http://shopper.cnet.com/PYLE_Blue_Wave_Series_PLA4240_amplifier/4014-6726_9-31954560.html

http://cardiscountstereos.com/catalog%20page.asp?Product+%23=PLA4240

how have you go that 4 ch amp connected ? I don't think you can connect all 4 channels to the same speaker.

I had no problem with google.

Bridged it should be fine. Unless it has a short somewhere or the subs are blown and they take some time to short.

Just did a search on the subs, i hate how cheap brands rate there stuff 400-600rms WTF. I can understand recomended. But rms is not recomended power.

Are they in the original bandpass im trying to figure out how you bridged each sub if there is one connection. But they are the right impendance.

how have you go that 4 ch amp connected ? I don't think you can connect all 4 channels to the same speaker.
It's bridged, so it isn't on all of the channels.

they are in the original bandpass. does anyone know what i can do to fix this?? please help, thanks!!

I had no problem with google.

Bridged it should be fine. Unless it has a short somewhere or the subs are blown and they take some time to short.

Just did a search on the subs, i hate how cheap brands rate there stuff 400-600rms WTF. I can understand recomended. But rms is not recomended power.

Are they in the original bandpass im trying to figure out how you bridged each sub if there is one connection. But they are the right impendance.
the subs aren't blown because they work with the other amp that i took out.

what is bridged to what ...... I really have no idea how you have it connected together.

Here's the deal, an amp blows fuses because it is drawing too much current (power) from the battery. SO you have some choices 1) there is a short in the power wire - not likely since it works on the other amp 2) the amp is messed up some how 3) the speaker load is wrong for that amp - even though it is ok for the other one, not all amps can handle low impedance loads.

Paul the specs for those subs say that they are hooked up for an 8ohm load out of the box to a single connection. Im trying to figure out unless he used a different jack setup or just ran the wires from each sub right to the amp. They are 4 ohm so if each is bridged to its own channel it should be fine. And 8 ohms is sure as hell not low enough to draw to much current.

Unless he has an older 4ohm model like they used to sell at best buy and the subs are each 2ohm. Im aiming for short in a wire or that amp its self is bad. Cause pyle in general isnt very good. I cant even find an rms value for that amp. Ive seen 75x4@4ohm and 150x4@2ohm. And 200 @4 ohm bridged. And ive seen 400x4@4/2ohm. I know damn well thats not right.

This one might be VERY difficult to troubleshoot over the net, but take maybe 20-30 min in person.

I just think that the amp is a bad one. Also I am thinking of getting another amp, but definitely not from pyle.

Thanks for all of your suggestions, I tried everything and it was really helpful.

Does anyone know any good amps that are at least 400 watts rms??