Automotive paints

Having gotten my correct green mixed for the Bentley, all extra's bought (correct thinner, clearcoat and hardener) and having had a chat to the guys at the shop, I still want to ask you guys as well what your heads-up's and tips are for using auto paint instead of "normal" modelling paint. (Could not find anything in the FAQ's)

Application - is that more or less the same via airbrush? It is not rattlecans, btw. Once clearcoated, I do decal application... then what as clearcoat? At this stage I cover it with some more TS13 - what do I use now? Will TS13 go over the auto paint? I am obviously thinking the auto paint clear/hardener will damage the decals - might be wrong?

With which other paints can I combine it? Once the green is down, there are some other colours that needs to be applied - what can I use? TS sprays? Or do I need to do the other bits prior to applying this paint?

And whatever else you can think of and I haven't mentioned... Maybe I'm making too much of this...(?)

If the RBGreen is a flat base (I guess becouse you need to clearcoat after) my only advice is just don't touch it.
Do a perfect primer job, Tamy (I don't know Gunze) should be ok, I feel better an industrial acrylic primer: the primer should be "at mirror shine" so you don't have to touch next paint steps. Than apply the green: if is like other color I tried (ferrari's PPG or Lecher products) it's very easy to apply: just thin a bit more than what reccomended until you feel good in the airbrush. Do thin coats, few minutes one from the next: when done wait 1/2 hour (but it dpend from the colour brand/thinner) and coat it with a couple mistcoat and a light wetcoat of 2k clear. Obviously clear don't do miracles: the green should be perfect. than cut down the OP from the clear and apply decals, wash it, let cure and do the final 2k clear job. This is the reccomended workflow from the body shop guys and I found out that work ok.

PS: flat base usually come out w/out orange peel: it's matt and easy to spray: all you need is just a fine pressure/thinner set-up, also 2kclear give you a wonderful shine w/out OP: only since is supposed you haven't to polish all, is really important work in a clean pleace w/out dust: 2k is out/dust in few minutes, like the matt base.

It's a metallic and was told I need the clear and hardener (mixed) to bring out the metallic, not sanding/polishing the paint itself before the application of clear/hardener. Not sure of the make, but it could very well be 2k - you say that will not damage the decals...? (at work now, will check make of clear at home)

Just some advice. I recommend making some tests with spare decals directly over the paint, they will probably work with no problems.

I use Dupont automotive paints and the matt / semi-gloss finish it leaves is very good to set decals directly over it, I only apply tamiya gloss varnish in places where some tricky decal has to be placed.

As gionc said, with these paints and clears the most important thing is to make a perfect primering job. If the primer is good, the finish will be fantastic at the moment you get the knack of the clear coat.

Metallic colors usually don't look as smooth as solid colors, but that's the way they are, in this way the metallic effect is stronger. In fact, you can still make it stronger applying one or two final light coats from more distance with your airbrush. The small "sandy" effect on the surface will make the metallic effect higher once you apply the clear.

I've used Sikkens and Dupont clear coats and none of them made nothing to any decal.

Regards

How you start depends on what the body is made from. Plastic, you have to go light coats, Resin, you can be more liberal with the application because the paint won't harm the body whereas a good heavy wet coat could eat it's way down to the plastic.

You have to put some clear down before you decal. 2 reasons, A, decals don't adhere well to matte surfaces and B, I've had decal softeners muck up my metallic laquers that didn't have a clear coat.

Decal inks are of a whole variety, but a lot are a laquer base which allows you to clearcoat over them. The trick is, make sure they are dry. Any moisture under them is usually wat causes the problems. When putting clear overtop, I've been most sucessful with light coats all the way through. A heavy coat could eat through the previous layers and melt the decals.

Thanks guys! It's been a great comfort to get this confirmation from you guys. gionc, I have checked - I do have the 2k clear and hardener (Formula 40, whatever that may be worth...)

Appreciate the feedback! Now... I must just finish with what I'm busy with before tackling something else! ;)

:lol: How you start depends on what the body is made from. Plastic, you have to go light coats, Resin, you can be more liberal with the application because the paint won't harm the body whereas a good heavy wet coat could eat it's way down to the plastic.

You have to put some clear down before you decal. 2 reasons, A, decals don't adhere well to matte surfaces and B, I've had decal softeners muck up my metallic laquers that didn't have a clear coat.

Decal inks are of a whole variety, but a lot are a laquer base which allows you to clearcoat over them. The trick is, make sure they are dry. Any moisture under them is usually wat causes the problems. When putting clear overtop, I've been most sucessful with light coats all the way through. A heavy coat could eat through the previous layers and melt the decals.