Little tips you have learnt the hard way!

Originally posted by jay@af
And let's face it... we all post in here eventually. :( :rolleyes: Is it ironic that I'm the next to post? Probably not. :cwn27:

When you're cleaning your airbrush parts, don't drop the tiny pick-up tube down the drain. :eek: My hobby store doesn't carry replacements, so I have to find plastic tubing to match and makle my own. :cry:

Originally posted by jay@af
Is it ironic that I'm the next to post? Probably not. :cwn27:

When you're cleaning your airbrush parts, don't drop the tiny pick-up tube down the drain. :eek: My hobby store doesn't carry replacements, so I have to find plastic tubing to match and makle my own. :cry:

:eek: :eek: :eek: OH NO !!!!

I can just picture your face as it happened.. :mad: :mad:

Here's one

Never put/apply your decals near a sink!!!:angryfire

Watching them wash down the drain is no fun!:( :( :( :zx11pisse
and......
Don't touch clear window parts when you have glue/cement on your fingers (Guess how many kits I screw up doing that??)

Originally posted by turbos86
Here's one

Never put/apply your decals near a sink!!!:angryfire

Watching them wash down the drain is no fun!:( :( :( :zx11pisse
and......
Don't touch clear window parts when you have glue/cement on your fingers (Guess how many kits I screw up doing that??)

OUCH...That was painfull to read :(

I can show you guys my (one mistake kill entire project) cars when i borrow my friend's digi cam

I also screw up windows pretty much constantly. You can use some Krystal Klear or something (ask Jay)

Never no matter how gental you think you're being try and bend clear window parts just a little bit. SNAP! That's all you'll get!!!!! :mad: :mad: :mad: :angryfire :angryfire :mad: :mad: :mad:

Heres one, how about dont leave models where your dog can get to them. I had a nice 1:18? mustang and the dog got to it and tore the nice red hard top off. Also he got to my 57 Chevy! Damn plastic loving dogs.

JOsh

1 1/2" circular saw blade in my Dremel tool cutting off pieces of evergreen strips for a project when the saw seized up on a piece of plastic it headed right for my innocnt finger at 3000 rpm,it cut clean into the bone.:bandit: Doctor? I don't need no stinkin Doctor I just wrapped it up tight til the bleeding stopped ! You can hardly see the scar :eek:


One of the members of our model club ran an xacto knife THROUGH his hand. It still does'nt ork right !!

Ack!! :apuke:!!!

LOL!!! We have a battle-scar thread, too! ;)

When you're cleaning your airbrush parts, don't drop the tiny pick-up tube down the drain

I once dropped it into bathroom sink hole. But I had chance to recover it while tube not gone too far

You lot are a bunch of amatuers!!!!!:D

Funny thing is, do you carry on doing something when a little voice in your head says you'll cock it up if you carry on!
Then you carry on and...cock it up!!!:mad:

Originally posted by Guiddy
You lot are a bunch of amatuers!!!!!:D

Funny thing is, do you carry on doing something when a little voice in your head says you'll cock it up if you carry on!
Then you carry on and...cock it up!!!:mad:

So true

S O T R U E ! ! ! :)

Hi Guiddy,
Just seen your tips on not using bulbs or cookers, I use Halfords Rattle cans and find that once touch dry I can put a body 24 hrs on a radiator and hey presto :flash: Fully cured paint works great when using polyester filler too

ALWAYS place the tops back on your paints, or you will come back to a table covered in Tamiya 'Silver Chrome' :eek: :(

expect your decals to melt in 30 miniutes if not properly dried!:eek:

Originally posted by 4x4 Cactus
expect your decals to melt in 30 miniutes if not properly dried!:eek:
I mean when you spray clear of coures!

Make a vacuum former from a 5"x7" electronics box and same size perforated board from Radio Shack. Attach the board to one end of the box with a hinge, and use 5/32 vacuum hose tubing around the opening af the box to seal it. Attach your vacumm cleaner's hose to the box for the vacuum source (a sliding vacuum bleed-off is recommended to avoid over-powering the plastic) and you can form windshields from heated acetate, body parts from heated styrene, and many other neat products for your model! You can create a pattern for a spoiler from clay and pop out as many as you like!

DO NOT USE AUTOMOTIVE WAXES ON MODEL FINISHES!!
They often contain silicone and can actually prevent your paint job from "gassing-out" and also create havoc when applying decals, or attaching parts like mirrors. In the worst case, your paint will begin to crack in a pattern similar to a dry-lake bed in a dry-spell!!
Use only products specifically for model finishes or Meguiars glaze products.

I also screw up windows pretty much constantly. You can use some Krystal Klear or something (ask Jay)

Try some watch crystal cement, works wonders!!!
Russ

Originally posted by HuMMerMan
Heres a real good one.

If you need to strip the paint off a kit. DO NOT USE BRAKE CLEANER


Never use brake cleaner. It's brake FLUID that will strip the paint, not cleaner. Most brake cleaners are made from MEK (methal ethel ketone, sp?) which will melt most plastics very quickly.

when spraying your models make sure everything u don't want to make that colour is off the table, i was over anxios and got baby blue overspray all over my decal sheet

scott

Tamyia enamel paints don't seem to paint well over AS-12:(

has anyone else noticed this????

Originally posted by tazdev
Tamyia enamel paints don't seem to paint well over AS-12:(Couldn't tell you. There's something about the "AS" paints that makes them illegal to sell here in America. We only get the "TS" spray cans. And to tell the truth, I've never seen the Tamiya enamel jars, only the acrylics.

Never attempt to apply decals while wearing boxing gloves.

Originally posted by jay@af
Couldn't tell you. There's something about the "AS" paints that makes them illegal to sell here in America. We only get the "TS" spray cans. And to tell the truth, I've never seen the Tamiya enamel jars, only the acrylics.

turns out that it was just 1 bad batch of paint, I had a second little jar and tried some of that and it was fine:confused:


Oh yeah. Never handle a light colored model with dirty fingers:( :(

NOTE. the Loctite Zexel R34 GTR uses a different exhaust to the Pennzoil R34 GTRbut both are included in the kit. I accidentally used the one from the pennzoil car and had to cut the end off and put the correct end on:(


make sure you use the correct one

Dont even bother with humbrol spray paints. My model shop guy sold me saying they are 'the same as the tamiya ones.' My a** were they.

Also don't try to spray over humbrol paint with halfords paint. Not even after it has fully dried. In fact, I've tried spraying more humbrol paint over dry humbrol paint before and it has messed up (it goes all wrinkly)
I've given up on it now. It's either halfords or tamiya for me from now on.

When applying any decals....NEVER use an old brush that has paint in it because if you use Micro Set on you decals it cleans any paint out of the brush onto your dacal.
Only ever use a brand new brush that has never had paint in it.

Build a shrine to the Gods of Disappearing Small Parts :)

Next time when those small handbrakes fall onto the floor just offer a few styrene sheets as sacrifices and they'll turn up in no time! :D

Originally posted by daggerlee
Build a shrine to the Gods of Disappearing Small Parts :)

Next time when those small handbrakes fall onto the floor just offer a few styrene sheets as sacrifices and they'll turn up in no time! :D If only I knew that a year ago... :(

Originally posted by Chris
DO NOT SPILL MODELLING GLUE ON CLEAR WINDOWS!!!!!

If you do, just leave it alone, you will only make it worse by touching it. Do not use scotch tape on a clear-coated surface shortly afte painting it. Do not spray one heavy coat, two or more light ones. Do not spray 2 or more heavy coats, either.

I got glue on a window and i tried lightly sanding it off with really fine sand paper, hahahahaha, don't do it, you will make a mess!!!!

Originally posted by ales
Put your painted model bodies (I'm talking die-cast here) somewhere they can't fall off from (LIKE THE FLOOR!), and also there shouldn't be anything that can fall on them. It sucks twice as much when a nice black car falls on the nice white-primered car and the former gets a huge scratch on the roof, and the latter gets it's scratch-built DTM rear wing knocked off!!!

But it's OK now...

I was almost done with a ford probe (no questions, I owned one but I now drive a civic) and someone took it out with a pool stick and it then fell to the floor. to top things off the person started stepping on the parts. The model is still not finished, I guess I gave up. To complete this story, my friend and I started building a custom 56 ford pickup truck from random parts that were laying around and that one also hit the floor and remains in pieces. After reading these posts I might have to finish the models though.

Originally posted by primera man
Be careful with sharp knifes.



I'm doing the Tamiya WRX kit and had been to work to use the lathe to make up some small rim spacer's for some different rims i'm fitting to the kit.


metal lathe? I have a wood lathe and a metal lathe and don't even know how to use the metal one. What exactly did you make with it?

Originally posted by yater13


Never use brake cleaner. It's brake FLUID that will strip the paint, not cleaner. Most brake cleaners are made from MEK (methal ethel ketone, sp?) which will melt most plastics very quickly.

most ketones will melt plastics, its a good organic solvent.

You want a great view of your to rally drivers in your Subaru WRC diorama because the pastic windows make them look distorted. So you cut off the window off the car and then decide to put the window back two hours later!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
NO:::: GLUE FUMES F*** it the windscreen

Once when i had bought a new swiss army knife (sharp as hell) i opened the large blade and then i droped it down on to my finger, deep cut. I was bleeding forever, anyway, dont do that it hurts!

Originally posted by Minerale
Once when i had bought a new swiss army knive (sharp as hell) i opened the large blade and then i droped it down on to my finger, deep cut. I was bleeding forever, anyway, dont do that it hurts!

It hurts? Hm , i can't belive you , gotta try that myself;) ...

YOU CAN NOT SLOW YOUR DREMEL TOOL DOWN SLOW ENOUGH TO MIX PAINT

You can try but your finger and thumb get way to hot to hold on to the collet, and you end up letting go.

I ended up with a 4" black stripe on my chest(soaked through my shirt) for a week.:rolleyes: :rolleyes:

Don't attempt to reinsert a spray can nozzle anywhere near a prepped model. Splatter texture doesn't look to good on a model.

Don't let your little brother pick all of the parts of the frame..

Humbol matt black (33) is anything BUT matt!

Humbol matt black (33) is anything BUT matt!

You have got to be kidding. I have had no problems with any humbrol matt enamels. I've had several matt blacks since i started doing models and hae had no problems with any of them. I think I have figured out your particular problem though.

Stir it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

never sand BONDOnear a lit candle

Originally posted by nismo kid


You have got to be kidding. I have had no problems with any humbrol matt enamels. I've had several matt blacks since i started doing models and hae had no problems with any of them. I think I have figured out your particular problem though.

Stir it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Stirred, shaken, warmed, etc. Still, compared to Revell (nr 8) , it's more like semi-gloss.

I've used both, and the only difference I've found is that the revell one smells funny. They gave the same finish. I think you may have had a duff pot or something.

origianlly posted by yater13
Don't attempt to reinsert a spray can nozzle anywhere near a prepped model. Splatter texture doesn't look to good on a model

UNLESS you are a great automotive refinisher/artist hired to paint the "BMW moving art" series of cars..

CHECK THESE GUYS
http://www.bmwworld.com/artcars/80_rauschenberg.jpg
http://www.bmwworld.com/artcars/80_nelson.jpg
http://www.bmwworld.com/artcars/80_done.jpg

Something that I found alot eaier thn spra painting those little baclights is just take a sharpie permanent marker and color the outside. the ligth look great and they got kinda of a realitic feeling. just make sure u dont accidenttally drop them on ur clothes right after coloring them.

I've had MANY problems in my 3 years of car models... like last night.. i was finishing a Corvette Z06 and the paint was Testors Enamal and when i put the brush in... SPLAT all over the BEIGE living room carpet.
NOT A HAPPY MOM... Electron Blue paint on the Beige living room carpet.. and guessssssss what ... it dont come off!

Also...BIG TIP.. don't airbrush near a cat...

i was air brushing the hood of an Aston Martin Db7 vantage and the paint was still wet.. sure enough the cat jumped off a shelf and landed right on the fresh painted good... and sure enough there was cat hair covering it.... about 3 washings with Ajax and paint thinner... it all came off !!

I didn't feel like doing it out in the garage so i did it in the living room :D

something i JUST learned ... you should use like an Elmers Glue for windows and things like that ... for SO many years i have been using the regular cement...and i have messed up and gotten the cement on the window and it wouldn't come off... or i had paint on my fingers and it got on the window... Good Tip!!!

im sure you all have had that experiance b4 ???

__________________________________________________ _________

kyle

current project - Honda S2000

NOT A HAPPY MOM... Electron Blue paint on the Beige living room carpet.. and guessssssss what ... it dont come off!

:o I'm also painting my Z06 Electron Blue...what paint did you use as a match? I used Model Masters Arctic Metallic Blue

Originally posted by primera man
Good tip for those hard to get off lids on Tamiya Acrylic paints....you know the ones where you sweat/swear at etc etc and the lids wont un-screw.

Put them in the microwave for 10-15 sec. It softens up the paint and the lid then comes of nice :)

Put 2 bottles too close and you get some nice plasma stobes.

I'd only do 12 seconds at most... 8 in an older adjustable microwave.


(PS: stick a light bulb in the microwave and it will light up!)


I don't have any stories just wondering how you guys cut out the wheel well on the plastic bodies... I f***ed up on my Celica GT-Four. :(

Never attempt to apply decals while wearing boxing gloves.

Now thats just comon sence.
-Thug

Quote from DAggerLee
__________________________________________________ __________
I'm also painting my Z06 Electron Blue...what paint did you use as a match? I used Model Masters Arctic Metallic Blue
__________________________________________________ __________

I used a Tamiya Mettalic Blue

I don't have any stories just wondering how you guys cut out the wheel well on the plastic bodies... I f***ed up on my Celica GT-Four.

Go to an RC shop and ask for curved scissors. Take a look at them, then go to Rite-Aid and see if you can get it for cheaper (look in the cosmetics/whatever section :) ) . :)

i should have come here before i started modelling! I always learn things the hard way. its the best way to learn!:bloated:

-be careful where you push on a part to put it in place (i broke off part of the front grill on my Calsonic Skyline R34 while trying to glue the bumper on)

-Dont paint the pegs that hold the wheels on the Fujimi Civic type R (even if it says so in the instructions... no one will be able to see these parts anyway since they are hidden) Mine dont turn and i've broken the suspension trying to force them to spin:mad:

-Dont try to use a dremel to polish... nuff said

-the most important thing ive learned is.... BE PATIENT!!

Make sure the decal for the gauge cluster is in place before attaching the steering column. :o It's kinda tricky getting it in place with everything else in the way...

Don't glue the steering wheel to the column.. helps with the room for the decal. This works for me with the S2000, also don't glue the complete dashboard if it stays inplays without glue.. you never know when you want to change this inside

Don't shake your pots of Tamiya clear colors like Clear Red and Clear Orange. All you'll do is aerate the paint and fill it with bubbles that will end up in your paint job. :(