88 Honda Civic Wagon Trouble Starting

Hello all,

I am looking for some help with a problem I am having with my Honda Civic. The car is an 1988 Wagon 4WD with 220,000 miles on it.

The problem I am having with it is the car will not stay started or start. I should preference that with somtimes it starts no problem, but if I shut it off then try to start it again, it will fire then stall. It is then hard or impossible to get it started again. The last time this happened I almost got stranded, but I was able to get the car to start again.

The car has not been tuned up in sometime, but I have replaced the air filter recently and the spark plugs probably about 50000 miles ago..

I would appreciate any assistance anyone could give to me with this problem. I am trying to decide if it is worth it to get it fixed.

Thanks

When trying to start do you notice your rpms go up then immediately fall back to zero? Or does it die when you let go of the key in the "start" position? If the rpms go up then die, that is a sign that your ignitor module in the distributor is going bad. If your car just cranks and cranks after warming up and wont turn over then your main fuel relay might have gone bad. If you can, check for fuel and spark. If your getting no fuel, i'd say its your main relay. If your getting no spark, then its distibutor related.

PS: your car has only a minor problem and is definitely worth fixing, you can get many more miles out of your wagon...

*nods in agreement*

Other than that, you seriously need a tune up, and run a compression check, just to get the numbers (they're helpful in diagnosing engine problems)

Well a compression check isn't gonna be all that usefull in diagnosing starting problems. Just do the basics and check for fuel and spark first. Once you diagnose the problem and fix it, then move on and maybe get a tune up, but tuning up now isnt gonna fix your intermittent starting problem.

Checking the main relay by ear:
1. Turn key to "on" position
2. listen for click under dash, then a second later, another click, and check engine light should turn off with second click
3. repeat 4 or 5 times, should click EVERY TIME, if not, replace it.

Located on the back of the fuse panel, one plug goes into the back, I believe a white plug with approx 20 wires, and it's a plastic box that has retainers around it to hold it in place.

Simply pop that one out, and pop the new one in
(Fuse panel is held in by two 10 or 12 mm nuts, one on each side)

Also, pull the pass side carpeting back to expose the ECU cover plate, turn the key to "on" and check for a blinking light... count the blinks twice or three times, and then reference it to the ECU codes section of your repair manual, it should tell you if you're having a problem with the igniter module.

Might also be a good idea during your tune up, if you have access to an ohmmeter, to check the ignition coil, and make sure it's within spec. I believe for EF models, it's supposed to be between 300 and 500 ohms from + to - terminal, and some 13.5k to 14.7k from positive to secondary (tower that the spark comes from) Check your repair manual before takin my word for it though, I'm not 100% positive on those figures.

Guys thanks for the infromation. I am definitely a novice, but will be heading to my local autp parts store to find out a little bit more about the some of the things you have mentioned. I will check the error codes to try and determine which problem it is and go from there.

Again I really appreciate your assistance, Thanks Mark

Make sure you are getting power to the fuel pump also. On the wagons there is a access panel where the wires run to the pump. Pull up the rear seat like your going to put the back seats down to haul something. Its on the drivers side, just pull back the plastic covering and youll see the cover and electrical connections.

I think I have located the main relay. The plastic box you are describing should be about 2"x3" in size, one side plugs into the fuse panel the other has a connector attached. inside this box is a small circuit board. Does this sound like the correctpart to replace? I didn't always here the clicking when I turned the key to the on position so I am assuming that replacing this part woul dbe a good idea.
Thanks for the help I appreciate. By the way when I started the car to get it out of the garage no problem, but when I let it sit for about 45 mins I had a hard time starting it again. This has been the main problem.

Mark

Checking the main relay by ear:
1. Turn key to "on" position
2. listen for click under dash, then a second later, another click, and check engine light should turn off with second click
3. repeat 4 or 5 times, should click EVERY TIME, if not, replace it.

Located on the back of the fuse panel, one plug goes into the back, I believe a white plug with approx 20 wires, and it's a plastic box that has retainers around it to hold it in place.

Simply pop that one out, and pop the new one in
(Fuse panel is held in by two 10 or 12 mm nuts, one on each side)

Also, pull the pass side carpeting back to expose the ECU cover plate, turn the key to "on" and check for a blinking light... count the blinks twice or three times, and then reference it to the ECU codes section of your repair manual, it should tell you if you're having a problem with the igniter module.

Might also be a good idea during your tune up, if you have access to an ohmmeter, to check the ignition coil, and make sure it's within spec. I believe for EF models, it's supposed to be between 300 and 500 ohms from + to - terminal, and some 13.5k to 14.7k from positive to secondary (tower that the spark comes from) Check your repair manual before takin my word for it though, I'm not 100% positive on those figures.

use this link to test your relay its pretty detailed..it used to have a link to actually desolder, and fix the relay without buying a new one...but I'm having problems accessing that part of the page...will keep looking for you though...google works great for finding solutions to relay problems...its like the number one problem for this generation of hondas..

http://autorepair.about.com/cs/troubleshooting/l/aa010301c.htm

i just found another link...it has all the same info as the link above..but also gives detailed instructions on how to desolder and resolder the main relay...its pretty easy..I've done it on my car, and a buddy's civic

http://techauto.tripod.com/mainrelay.htm