Any pointers for new brake lines?

My brake lines are all shot! They are all rusted, and I finally developed a big leak. I'm going to redo all the brake lines.

To make the job 10 times easier, I was wondering if I could put in new brake lines and NOT use the ABS module. (I've been bypassing the ABS module for years using the fuse...they were just too unpredictable for me.) If I do this, what would I have to do to balance the brake system?

Any other pointers for tackling this job? I've heard before that I should definately double-flare the fittings.

anti-lock brakes are another of the great improvments to cars over the last few years. ( my opinion ) they have saved my ass more than once.
any fault in the abs system reverts back to standard braking. that includes blown or missing fuses. so you have already done what you set out to do.
re-engineering your brakes do not sounds like a bad idea.

i sure did mess that up imeant to say
BAD IDEA!!!

Hey sreve. Are you fairly new to the Silverado world? The ABS on my 2000 have almost got me into countless accidents. I've had two wheel speed sensors fail on me. When it happens, it is very hard to stop, until you figure out what is going on, disable the abs, and get the sensor problem fixed. Also, the abs really increase my stopping distance on bumpy roads and railroad tracks. Its just a poor execution of a great idea. But, I can see that whenever I sell this truck, I'll have one heck of a time trying to explin that to a potential buyer.

I agree not to take off the anti lock brakes. Check your steel tubing size go to a parts store and purchase some long lengths. If you don't have a double flaring tool. Remove a section and buy sections to length. They make a connector so that you can screw two threaded pieces together to get the proper length. Maybe a long and short piece. Purchase a bending tool as it will crimp and crack if you don't use one. This is an all day job and dirty if you haven't done it before. As you won't be exact on length you may need to put in another bend or a slightly larger one.
Don't use crimp connectors or copper tubing or you might total your truck.

Use a tubing bender! don't try to hand bend the lines, this will kink them and cause restrictions and leaks.
Also be very careful if you are forming flares, the flares need to be a certain size..any larger or smaller they could leak...also the flare nuts have a torque specification..do not overtighten them.
It's a SAFETY system...DO IT RIGHT

Where do you live this is the type of job I would expect on a 1956 chevrolet pickup not a 1999 or 2000 silverado. I had a neighbor who restored old pickups and this was common. The ones on my 2000 silverado look close to new. Do you work in a fertilizer plant?

I guess I'm glad that I'm the only one having issues with brake line failures. I bought the truck new in Salt Lake City, and moved to the Gulf Coast. Yeah, I drive it on salted roads in the mountains, and take it to the beach. But I had two other cars that I drove for 10 years each in the same conditions, and never had a brake line fail.

Now, have you folks looked at the routing of these brake lines? If you do, you'll see what I mean about the job being easier if you take the ABS module out of the equation. I don't know if I can get those 4 lines that run from the engine compartment to the ABS module in there. The brake lines were probably originally installed before the frame was put on.

As you are replacing the lines I would disconnect the abs module and put it on the work bench. Always cover the openings with rags. I always went to the part store and purchased double crimped lines as close to length as I could get using a coupler that threaded in on each side. I used the old piece and a pipe bender getting as close to original as I could get. After the bottom lines are fabricated and the lower ends threaded in but loose to the abs module I would set it in place but leave it loose then start the threads on the bottom of the module. Making your bends and lines makes it harder to start the threads get both ends started before final tightning.
Selling a used truck with abs removed is drastically going to lower the price.

im sure you can get a pre-bent brake line kit... i got one for a 73 chevy truck and their all stainless steel for about 250 bucks, comes with every metal line in the system. im sure theres someone that makes em for newer trucks

I went to Chevy and they told me they do not sell pre-bent lines anymore(1999 at any rate) He showed me in his IPC they list 1/4 inch coil stock and bend themselves.I found several places that sold pre bent but they only covered up to '99.

rhandwor,

How do you deal with the metal wire sheaths that the brake lines run through between the abs module and engine compartment? I don't think you can slide the brake line out of the cover.

The lines are wrapped with metal for protection from the master cylinder to the ABS unit. If they aren't to corroded I would coat them with spray greese and not replace them. Like the ones on the back axles they protect them from road debris. Usually they are on the back of the axle.Generally they don't go all the way so I have replaced them with new steel sections I got at the parts store.
If you go in the woods hunting with the truck I would check on factory replacements or fabricate a guard.
You are not going to have a new factory job but one which works until you get a new truck. You could use a small piece of angle iron and hose clamps around the axle in the back. If the wraps were for pressure they would go all the way like a steel wrapped hose as these don't I would say they are guards.

the coiled wire around the lines allows sharp bends without kinking the line.
they used to make tubing benders like that. though i have not seen one in years they work great if you can find one. you can make much sharper bends than with a conventional tubing bender, but you can't have a flare on the end they have to fit tight. if you are replacing all the lines a double roll flaring tool is in your future.

I have a set of these but if you look they also use them in a lot of unbent areas to protect the lines. I was telling him how to do buy buying tubing at the parts store with ends. The average person who does his own work doesn't have the quality tools to do the job properly especially especially double flares. I have done it so I know it can be done. My job really looked good compared to what I observed. Only one connector is needed for the long line to the back. If you remove the line one piece at a time and have a selection of premade tubing you can easily get by.
If he has good tools and buys 20foot lengths and fittings he will have a better looking job but it will probably cost more buying from the dealer.
Like you say you I can't determine what he wants. Craftsman used to sell the spring tools. I have observed copper tubing and copper crush fittings only the threaded fitting is approved and double flared steel tubing.

Yep rhandwor, I have that same little spring bending tool. As you pointed out, these things on our trucks are brake line protectors. I DO have, and know how to use a double-flaring tool.

So, for example, how did you replace the front line from the master cylinder to the ABS module. As I look at the bends in this line, it tells me that I will have to cut it to remove it, right? Then, did you slide the line out of the metal protector, leaving it in place, or did you take both out. If you took the metal sleeve out, was it hard to slide back in to that little space in the frame? If you left the sleeve in place, you would have to do a double flare on the end you just slid up through the sleeve, while that tube is in the engine compartment (the fitting doesn't look like it will fit through the sleeve.)

Talking with someone who has actually done this is soooooo helpful.....

My truck doesn't have anti lock. On my sons 98 with anti lock. I replaced the master cylinder and the anti lock with a junkyard unit I also replaced a spindle both calipers,rotors,rear wheel cylinders and brakes. He purchased an old termite mans truck so some of the stuff may have been removed.I just used a 6 point flare nut wrench they worked just like a a normal flarenut on a brake line or fuel filter. I used to live in Ohio and replaced brake lines on old cars. I now live in Georgia and don't have that problem.
Anyway on the 98 GMC I didn't have any problem. The big problem was bleeding the brakes. I would replace one line at a time. The big problem is starting the threads afterbending so don't finish tightning until both ends are started.
I had a mazda 929 with antilock and I didn't observe what you are talking about.
I would think you can remove the metal protector if you look. I doubt it is round I think it would life up when unbolted. If you give me a couple of days I will check my 2001 factory manual.
I looked at my manual but found no pictures. I think it bolted around the frame and was two pieces that came apart. The manual does talk about lining up the lines in the tray.

the coiled wire around the lines allows sharp bends without kinking the line.
they used to make tubing benders like that. though i have not seen one in years they work great if you can find one. you can make much sharper bends than with a conventional tubing bender, but you can't have a flare on the end they have to fit tight. if you are replacing all the lines a double roll flaring tool is in your future.

ones on my truck are for chaf protection where they go between the body and frame...they aren't very tight bends either.
what a waste on a good truck.....brake lines shot after 7 years and the exhaust system is in cherry shape still....

I just bought this brake line kit:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=270030193537

Seemed like a good deal. I'm not sure what I'm getting into but it can't be THAT bad, can it?