99 ignition, starter, ??

Well, on my 99 LT with electric everything (big mistake) it cranked and would not start. Fuel presssure was 61 KOEO and held 58 after the 2 sec pump cycled off. So cheap fix was coil $28 and then crank sensor $60 and started up OK. After a trip and parked at airport 3 days hard start and then ran 50 miles OK -yes was midnight I was lucky on that one cause the wife would have been pissed - me too!! So next day cranks and no start and fuel pressure OK still so ignition module at $75 - and no start. Find the small ignition wire on the starter has now lost the nut and dropped off. Reconnect that baby - 4wd so a pain to reach and still no start. OK pull the battery and tray and check the positive block and the fuseable link is good to alternator and across the 125amp block. All fuses in vehicle good. Anyone have this happen before? Not a happy camper here so off for a few more beers! Will check for spark tomorrow - raining now. Oh, security light went off as normal after a few seconds in run so should not be passlock.

I'd still say the security could be the culprit. Take it to Autozone and have them hook it to their scanner. It'll tell you if it's the security or not.

Can't be passlock due to the bulletin states that if the security light goes out after 5 sec in run then it is OK and mine does. Has spark too. Cranks well but will not fire so something I'm missing. Rechecked all fuses and voltages at the fuse block, the coil, ign module. Even ohmed each fuse to be sure as a wild shot. Has fuel pressure too. Anyone have this happen? Will tow to dealer Monday if no fix by then - too hot to keep screwing with it down here and its outside.

Well, if you have spark and fuel, the only other thing I could think of is the crank sensor. Will it even fire if you spray a little starting fluid in the throttle body?

Also, how much fuel pressure does it actually have? They need a lot to get them to fire and less to run.

Sorry - this one had me - was the distributer cap arching inside the plastic casting between traces from the pins where the rotor distributes the spark to the wires - not anyway to see or test for. Have to have a running engine to see all 3 (or more) of the plugs firing at the same time. Pressure was 61 KOEO so that was perfect.
Bottom line - looks like the aftermarket biggie auto store parts are NOT up to the same specs as Delco - just like many keep saying - well its true. Took a tow and $200 to convince me! Saved $15 up front and spent 8 hours pissed off - forum memebers learn from this!! Thankfully I was not offroad or the interstate in some remote place! Cap was 1 year old only. Add this to trouble shooting no start condidtion - new Delco cap.

Muddog - been there. Had the same thing happen to me, minus the tow. I ended up having to replace the cheap cap with a good quality one, and it ran great.
Mine was showing a P0300 code, though - multiple, random misfires.
Glad to hear you're back up and running.