WIP: Tamiya 1/20 Jordan 191

I came across another video on YouTube which has footage of the Jordan 191. It is a fabulous video that shows Michael's career before Ferrari so has some good Benetton reference pictures too.

Sit back and get out the :popcorn:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ijQHG5p_TV8

The lyrics synchronise to the images in a number of places which made me :smile:

Keep up all the great work. CF work looks good. Nice engine detail. It really is coming together.

cheers
Dana G

Great link Billy

Thanks Dave

Quick update for you guys.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e250/billypee/Jordan%20191/IMG_0597.jpg

First up, how to drill perfectly spaced ventilation holes in your brake disks. At first I thought I could just eyeball it... wrong :banghead: What happens is that when you turn the drill it moves around and so you end up with un-even spaces. So, I marked out 2mm lines on some Tape with a ruler, then stuck it on the part. I then used my thinnest drill (0.3mm) to drill a pilot hole... then moved up a drill size at a time until I was at 0.6mm which seems to me to be the rightsize of hole. This definitely works as a system but unfortunately I didnt ensure that all the holes were in the middle of the brake disk :banghead: Oh, well, at least no one will see them when the wheels are on :grinyes:

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e250/billypee/Jordan%20191/IMG_0599.jpg

I found this 4 step file in Boots the Chemist (UK cosmetics shop) and it is fabulous. Four different grades on one stick. It is supposed to be for girls nails but hey, I thought I would give it a go on mine :grinyes: Wow, you should see how shiny my nails are after a good buffing and a coat of Tamiya Model Wax! :rofl:

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e250/billypee/Jordan%20191/IMG_0601.jpg

Here you can see I have experimented with SMS PE. I recessed the cover prior to painting. The antenna is just 0.4mm silver wire, with a blob of glue on the top. I need to paint it black yet but you get the drift... probably make the top more bulbous with another blob of paint if the mood so hits me.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e250/billypee/Jordan%20191/IMG_0612.jpg

Here you can see a couple of hex bolts in the front nose cone. Everything is looking mighty fine here... if I say so myself, although upclose there is definite orange peel effect on my paint job :shakehead

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e250/billypee/Jordan%20191/IMG_0607.jpg

Here is the completed rear wing. What a [insert expletive here] that was to glue together and keep aligned. A tip for anyone going to build this, the top white wing protrudes above the green side wing elements. Therefore you should leave white paint on the top half of the sides unlike me who removed the paint in order to get a good bond only to find that that part doesnt glue :banghead:

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e250/billypee/Jordan%20191/IMG_0610.jpg

Finally, here is the wing attached to the gearbox/engine assembly. You will notice that the bottom black element of the wing has the CF applied in a straight line, which is as per the reference pictures. The wing hasn't been glued on yet. You will also notice the the CF brake housings have also been attached.

Well, thats it for another update. I am in sanding and priming mode on the other parts now. Will be a few weeks before I have anything photographable (I think).

Please keep the comments coming,
Kind regards,
BillyPee

One of my favorite F1 cars. And you're doing an awesome job building and detailing it.:iceslolan

I'll be watching this closely, because I have this one in my to-do pile. Probably start building somewhere in the next decade.:disappoin
I'm planning to make the black CF test version of this car. But first I'll have to finish my current projects. Although your build is making it hard to leave the box of the Jordan closed... :frown:

Keep up the great work !

Nice work on the rear wing,it certainly looks quite a complex assembly but you made an excellent job of it.The carbon fibre looks good on the rear wing and the engine is looking great as well.Have you tried a little Tamiya compound to smooth out the orange peel effect? It usually works wonders for me.I'm looking forward to your next update.Just one question though,shouldn't the insides of the rear wing end plates be carbon fibre/black and not green?

BillyPee,
You are definitely at the top of my list for most improved! The Jordan is looking great!

DerXL:
I'm planning to make the black CF test version of this car.
It would like v nice but I know that I would get very fed up with all the CF.

Steve Noble:
Have you tried a little Tamiya compound to smooth out the orange peel effect?
Yes. I used Coarse/Fine/Finish on it, then wax, but either my technique is wrong (don't think so) or there was too much orange peel to start with (I think so). Basically, I sprayed the clear on Saturday morning and it was about 6 degrees C (I do my spraying in the garage) so I guess thats my real problem. I only used the compound on the clear top coat, not on the green colour layer for fear that the clear coat wouldn't bond to the shiny surface. Is that correct, or should I use polishing compound (and wax) before the clear coat and after the clear coat? Any suggestions welcome.
Just one question though,shouldn't the insides of the rear wing end plates be carbon fibre/black and not green?
The short answer is, not for this race. Looking at the Formula Perfect book, most of the time, the inside of the rear wing end plates were green. For round 8, the British GP, they were carbon fibre. For all other rounds, they were green.

Robrex:
You are definitely at the top of my list for most improved! The Jordan is looking great!
High praise indeed. Thank you.

Thanks to everyone for their kind comments,
BillyPee

Bill,I sometimes sand the paint when dry before I do the clearcoat.This removes most of if not all of the orange peel effect.Using this method you can actually see when the paint is flat that all the orange peel is gone.It will gloss back up no problem when you apply the clearcoat.This method is not without risk though because if you rub through the colour coat you end up spraying it again.Use a VERY fine wet and dry and go slowly,just enough to remove the orange peel and no further.Also make sure you have plenty of paint on to begin with,so there's plenty to sand back.

Looking really good Billypee nice job on the rear wing. I know what you mean about the break disc I drilled some crooked holes over this past weekend.


Regards,
Dave

Detailing looks good! I should practice more.... to get standards like that

Steve, I will try that technique on my next model. Ta.

Thanks guys for your kind comments.

Bill

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e250/billypee/Jordan%20191/IMG_0158.jpg



Billypee,

the car is looking fabulous, I second Robrex comments too, you have improved your building x100 over the last couple of builds. Rob - he will be outdoing you next!!!!

I think I mentioned this before but this has to be up there with one of the best looking F1 cars of all time - such a simple colour scheme but so stunning, and this is one of the best looking models of it I have seen so far, keep it up matey!

Sean
_______________________________

http://www.scalereproductions.co.uk (http://www.scalereproductions.co.uk/)
_______________________________

WIP: Lancia Stratos (http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=639403)

That wing looks tough!!! Everytime I build a Tamiya F1 I dread the wing the most. It look s great. I 2nd the tip on Sanding the color coat with 1200 of finer and clear over that before decals. The shine is great and really helps with imperfections. Regardless the model is looking tight.

Dana

Just a quick update to keep the thread alive. Cheers guys for the words of encouragement and the tip about sanding... I will be doing that in future.

All I have to report is that the rest of the pieces now have 2 coats of primer on them, applied on Sunday and Monday nights, in the cold, in the garage during a wet and stormy couple of nights. All things considered, the primer went down well.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e250/billypee/Jordan%20191/IMG_0653.jpg

I will be working on the base paint layers for the next few days so check back soon for that update. On a slightly different note, I took the advice on getting AN fittings (plus a few other goodies) from RB Motion.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e250/billypee/Jordan%20191/IMG_0654.jpg

Obviously, I haven't used any of them yet but all I can say is WOW. The proprietor, Rob, is such a nice guy, the catalogue is full of items that allow you to go nuts (no pun intended) super detailing, and the parts themselves are a wonder of small scale manufacture. [Right, enough advertising already]. Tempted though I am to add RB stuff to this model, it'd be wrong and a waste to apply it to only half the car, so it will have to wait until the next model.

Final thought. Mac at Macs Models pointed me in the direction of a wonderful Jordan 191 on F1M by Paul O'Farrell. Here is the link:

http://f1m.com/index.php?name=PNphpBB2&file=viewtopic&t=6352&postdays=0&postorder=asc&sid=c182f48fc38058b39906536008220c41

Man, that is a nice model. Anyway, the eagle eyed will have noticed that Paul has put CF on part of the front suspension (the vertical piece for want of a more accurate word). I thought it strange and it sent me back to my Formula Perfect Manual, and guess what, it is CF on some of the photos. I guess that this element of the suspension isnt load bearing and so was made from the lighter CF material. Glad I spotted that but, I'm not so sure I will be CFing that part myself as it just doesn't look right. What do you guys think?

Cheers,
BillyPee

Fabulous job you're doing Billypee, and the pictures are great.

Looks like a nice bunch of goodies from RB Motion, I might have to check those guys out.

BillyPee

Put the CF on the pushrod ( that's the name of the vertical piece ) of the front suspension but tone it a bit down with very thin matt black ( or matt black mixed with matt clear ) so the difference is not too big to the semi gloss suspension arms.

The pushrods ( they connect the wheels/uprights with the dampers ) were the first suspension parts the F1 teams made in CF. They have to take loads in more or less just one direction unlike the other arms and thus were easier to calculate and handle i guess. It took a while until the full suspensions were made in CF. For a time the teams would also get back to metal arms for the Monaco GP as they wouldn't disintegrate immediately upon contact with the walls and rather bend a little. These days i guess they have mastered that problem too and stay with CF all the time....

Good job on the Jordan!

Jaykay

Cheers Captain Mark.


Originally posted by jaykay640

Put the CF on the pushrod


I guess that would be the right thing to do. Thanks for the suggestion of toning it down... I will do that. Thanks also for the information on the correct name for the part... I like to learn things like that.

All the best,
BillyPee

Nice work Billy.You could try using a different pattern CF decal than the one on F1M.com.The one he has used on that model seems to have more of a bold weave pattern.Tamiya smoke is sometimes good for toning stuff down a bit.Keep up the progress on your model it's looking really good.

You could try using a different pattern CF decal than the one on F1M.com.The one he has used on that model seems to have more of a bold weave pattern.

I'm with Steve!!

I haven't posted in this thread yet but have to say what a wonderful job you are doing, this kit is very near the top of my to do list again. I built it when I first got back into modelling but want to do it some justice, much like you are doing.

As for the CF, I think the new Hi-Def would work great for you. The weave is very subtle and, in my opinion, more representative of the Uni Directional (UD) fibres that the teams would use for this kind of piece. The brake ducts however should definitely be twill weave as shown on F1m.

Keep up the good work and I look forward to seeing more.

Lee

Hi guys,

Thanks for the advice. I have the Hi Def decal sheet. However, if you look on Gurney Flap, you can see that the pushrod is definitely a twill weave. I plan to use the same twill I have been using but just tone it down with smoke.

Thanks,
Bill

Hello everyone,

Just a small update to keep you all interested. All the parts that I showed you primed in the last update now have, at least, their base layer of colour paint applied. The majority of the parts are black and for that used Halford's Satin Black straight from the can. It's a really good match for X-18, and goes on just great... one of those paints that looks to heavy and wet once applied and then dries a lovely semi-matt and reveals all the detail. However, I have managed to complete a few of the non CF parts, so here is a couple of photos to share my observations.

First up, the exhaust system. The instructions say to mix X-11 (Chrome Silver) with X-6 (Orange) in a 1:1 ratio. So I thought I would and see what that gave me... the answer... gold. It is very similar to X-12 Gold Leaf. I know from the reference photos that the exhaust needs to look essentially brown but I applied the mixture anyway. In order to tone down the gold, I gave the exhaust a very heavy wash (hardly thinned down) of Citadel Color Brown Ink. This combination results in a lovely "bronze statue" sort of finish... very nice if you are modelling a bronze statue but not if you are trying to model the exhaust system of an F1 car :grinyes: . So I applied a third layer to the exhaust, this time Gun Metal from the Tamiya Weathering System. I rubbed this on quite heavily with the foam applicator and it produced a finish that looks 99.9% the same as the reference photos (I couldn't believe my luck). It also adds some much needed texture too. The photograph makes the finish look more glossy that it is in real life, most likely due to taking it in-doors using a cheap flash and some halogen lighting. Bottom line, I will be doing future 'brown' exhaust systems this way. The only thing that remains is to add some blue for heat stress... but thats on order from HLJ so will have to wait.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e250/billypee/Jordan%20191/IMG_0660.jpg

I have also completed the 4 brake disk and caliper assemblies. As you guys know, the all-in-one assemblies on most of Tamiya's F1 line up suck. I "umm-ed and arr-ed" about using after market replacements or scratching something better myself but eventually decided that the kit stock items would do (given the level of detail on other parts of the car and the fact that I will be displaying this kerbside). The callipers are painted in X-31 (Titanium Gold), the centre of the discs at X-12 (Gold Leaf) the disc surfaces are X-10 (Gun Metal), and the disc edge is XF-66 (Light Grey). All washed with Citadel Color Black Ink thinned down quite a lot. Once dry, it was lightly rubbed with the Silver from the Tamiya Weathering System. I used the F1 Specialities blue heat sensor decals on the callipers... these needed to be cut to shape. You will also notice that I drilled the ventilation holes in the edge of the disc and applied the blue and pink heat sensor paint. Overall, I am actually very impressed with how these came out considering that they are the stock items.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e250/billypee/Jordan%20191/IMG_0665.jpg

Your comments are most welcome.

Kind regards,
BillyPee

My comment : WOW. Looks absolutely stunning.:grinyes:

One question though:
How on earth do you get your brushed paintjobs looking so good ?

Lately I've been having severe difficulties brushpainting Tamiya colors. I stir the colors quite some time, so I guess they're mixed well enough.
But for instance the X-12 gold is a royal pain. The paint is like peanut-butter thickness, so I have to thin it. But if I thin it, it doesn't cover in one layer. So I paint a second layer, no problem. Yes problem, because when I paint the second layer (often a week after the first - I'm a slow builder) the first layer dissolves and than that's that...:shakehead
In the end I get it to look acceptable, but I do have the feeling that there is an easier way.

Sorry to got OT here, but I thought I'd ask.

Regards,

My comment : WOW. Looks absolutely stunning.:grinyes:

One question though:
How on earth do you get your brushed paintjobs looking so good ?

But for instance the X-12 gold is a royal pain. The paint is like peanut-butter thickness, so I have to thin it. But if I thin it, it doesn't cover in one layer. So I paint a second layer, no problem. Yes problem, because when I paint the second layer (often a week after the first - I'm a slow builder) the first layer dissolves and than that's that...:shakehead


I have the exact same question, and Tamiya X-12 Gold has to be the worst paint in the world, at first I thought it must have been an old bottle , so I bought a new one, but its just the same, I'm going to try airbrushing it next because it dont like the brush at all.

DerXL/Ant Phillips,

Good question. So X-12 if you just paint un-thinned goes lumpy. So you must thin it quite a lot in order to get a smooth finish. This is fine as long as you have prepared the plastic and primed first. For example, the calliper assemblies were filed and washed in soapy water (filing lets the paint bind and the clean gets rid of the mould release). Then I use a spray can of primer, in this case a grey primer... first coat a light mist, second coat to fully cover. Then it is sanded lightly to get rid of any high points in the primer. Then its simply a couple of coats of thinned X-whatever... unless you are painting bolt heads, you MUST thin your X-paint. Use a large brush with a point rather than going for a small one... it holds more paint and the tip of the brush is just as small. Everything else is just practice.

Hope that helps, and thanks for the comments.
BillyPee

Looking real good Billy.Exhausts look nice.I always use Tamiya or Humbrol enamels for all my brush painting work.I find the Tamiya Acrylics are fantastic when sprayed,but when I've tried in the past to brush paint with them I end up taking off the paint that I've already applied.They seem to dry too fast.The enamels dry slower and are a lot easier for brush painting as they flow out and leave no brush strokes.The gold enamel in particular is much better than it's acrylic equivalent.With the brake assembly in question.I would usually spray the entire thing in the colour of the centre hub part with Tamiya acrylic.Then hand paint the brake disc surface with X10 or XF56 enamel.Then paint the brake caliper by hand with the appropriate enamel colour X12 or X31 etc.Then touch in the nuts with X11 enamel using a cut off cocktail stick instead of a brush.

Looking real good Billy.Exhausts look nice.I always use Tamiya or Humbrol enamels for all my brush painting work.I find the Tamiya Acrylics are fantastic when sprayed,but when I've tried in the past to brush paint with them I end up taking off the paint that I've already applied.They seem to dry too fast.The enamels dry slower and are a lot easier for brush painting as they flow out and leave no brush strokes.The gold enamel in particular is much better than it's acrylic equivalent.With the brake assembly in question.I would usually spray the entire thing in the colour of the centre hub part with Tamiya acrylic.Then hand paint the brake disc surface with X10 or XF56 enamel.Then paint the brake caliper by hand with the appropriate enamel colour X12 or X31 etc.Then touch in the nuts with X11 enamel using a cut off cocktail stick instead of a brush.

Thanks for the advice.

As of last week I am the proud owner of a Tamiya HG Airbrush (thanks for the recommendation and thanks to MediaMix Hobby for the service) so I can start experimenting with parts in terms of what to paint with bristles and what to paint with air. I haven't used Tamiya enamels, only acryilics, so dont have an opinion on them. I find that thinned acrylic paint over a primed part goes on lovely... it needs a second coat, but that can be applied within about 15 minutes so is no big deal. Whenever I have used the acrylics without thining them first (trying to do things quickly and rush) then I agree the paint dries quickly and lumpy and the second coat only serves to remove the first :banghead: . My solution was to prime and thin, which has the added benefit of preserving much of the detail in the plastic.

I'm also averse to doubling up my paint collection with an acrylic and enamel version, and using a bristle brush means I can work in the warmth and indoor lighting conditions without a trip to the garage.

Thanks again for the pointers,
BillyPee

I'm also averse to doubling up my paint collection with an acrylic and enamel version

Bill,I only have a few of the Tamiya enamels,mainly the metallics for the brush painting.Otherwise I use mostly the acrylics range.It helps to keep the cost down.I know what you are saying about getting the same colour twice.It would start to get costly long term and the hobby can be expensive enough as it is.How are you getting on with the Tamiya HG Spraywork? Have you tried it out yet?

How are you getting on with the Tamiya HG Spraywork? Have you tried it out yet?

Not tried it yet as I haven't got any air for it :grinyes: . Justing popping out for lunch and going to pick some up. Really looking forward to developing air-brush skills. Hoping to make myself a spray booth (something small and cheap) so that I can use it in the house. Been researching it on the web and there seems to be plenty of info... looking forward to the Christmas break so that I can really get up to speed with it all. Wanna get this Jordan finished first though.

Thanks as always,
Bill

Not tried it yet as I haven't got any air for it :grinyes: . Justing popping out for lunch and going to pick some up. Really looking forward to developing air-brush skills. Hoping to make myself a spray booth (something small and cheap) so that I can use it in the house. Been researching it on the web and there seems to be plenty of info... looking forward to the Christmas break so that I can really get up to speed with it all. Wanna get this Jordan finished first though.

Thanks as always,
Bill
Looks great, nice progress.

As of last week I am the proud owner of a Tamiya HG Airbrush

Nice Billypee I hope to get a airbrush in the next few weeks I am looking at a Aztek A430 Airbrush

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d79/DaveSans/4308Set.jpg
Regards
Dave

There is not much to show in this quick update as Christmas preparations are occupying more free-time than this self-confessed Scrooge would like :wink:. However, here are a couple of shots that prove that I am actually getting on with the CF work.

The first image shows one CFed and one not yet CFed sidepod. I decided not to remove the moulded electronic boxes as I wanted to limit this build's complexity. I have drilled the connectors (which I will eventually paint gold).
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/148/330950618_eccbad0acd.jpg

The second image shows one of the completed radiators. Close inspection of the Formula Perfect Manual shows that the black area on top of the radiator where the cables are run is part of the CF sidepod, so the CF decal I have applied is true to the reference pictures. The radiators were painted XF-16, washed with Citadel Color Black Ink (thinned) and then rubbed with silver from the Tamiya Weathering Kit.
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/165/330950619_cc10004cb2.jpg

(As an aside: Don't know about anyone else but I have had one heck of a time trying to upload images to Photobucket. I have opened up a Flickr account and that seems to work just fine... for now. However, you have to have 500x or 1024x images. I've plumped for 500x for now. I will use 1024x when I show in the finished gallery... seems like a good compromise.)

Anyway, the main reason for me updating this thread is to ask a question of anyone out there with the Studio 27 decals for this model. Do they come with the Momo decal for the centre of the steering wheel and the dashboard decal? I have been really careful so will be suprised if I have misplaced them. I can use the original decals, so this is no major drama, but it would be nice to know for sure. Answers on a postcard to...


Kind regards,
BillyPee

Good work on the sidepods and radiators.I checked the S27 decals I have and there's no Momo decal for the steering wheel on my sheet,so I don't think you've lost yours.I tried my Photobucket account and it uploads fine.All the best for Christmas and New Year Billy and I'll look forward to seeing your Jordan completed and hopefully my McLaren.

I can't see any pictures wounder why :frown:



Reagards
Dave

Have a Great Christmas and safe New Year

I can't see any pictures wounder why :frown:

Not sure as this is my first post on AF with photos hosted on Flickr. Steve could see them and I can too. Also, my posts on Shutterfreaks haven't had anyone complaining.

The URL of the photos are:

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/148/330950618_eccbad0acd.jpg

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/165/330950619_cc10004cb2.jpg

Try copying and pasting them into a new browser window and see whether you can see the image directly.

Have a wonderful Christmas and New Year yourself. Hope Santa brings you lots of modelling treats :smile:

Good work on the sidepods and radiators.I checked the S27 decals I have and there's no Momo decal for the steering wheel on my sheet,so I don't think you've lost yours.I tried my Photobucket account and it uploads fine.All the best for Christmas and New Year Billy and I'll look forward to seeing your Jordan completed and hopefully my McLaren.

Hi Steve,

1) Thanks for the kind comments.

2) Sorry to be a pain, but is there no dashboard decal either? I ask because the kit supplied dashboard decal (No. 51) is predominantly blue, whereas the ref pictures show that the digital display is grey (like a turned off calculator screen).

3) Regarding Photobucket, its just tempremental. I can see on my cable modem that the send/receive light stop after half a second and the screen freezes. Flickr is far from idea so I might have to try something else.

4) Have a great Christmas and New Year yourself. Yes were are both on the last lap on our builds so hopefully we will have them finished very soon. I want to avoid the temptation of rushing tho' ... and you should too.

Regards,
Bill

Sorry to be a pain, but is there no dashboard decal either?

I just checked the S27 decals again and there is no dashboard decal included on the sheet.

I just checked the S27 decals again and there is no dashboard decal included on the sheet.
Thanks for that Steve. I will leave you in piece now :smile:

For future reference for anyone making this model in the future, the Studio 27 decal sheet omits the equivalent of the following Tamiya decal numbers:

14/15: The white stripe at the rear of the cowl (used when painting the blue section).
32: Momo branding from the steering wheel
51: The dashboard display.

Cheers,
Bill

I can see the pictures now my fire wall was blocking it for some reason.
The radiator looks great very nice work.


Marry Christmas
Dave

Another quick update.

Most of the parts are now complete. It is just a matter of letting the water and MicroSol/Set dry before applying clear. The wheels and tyres I completed today. The only major work left is the under-tray and the inside of the monocoque/underneath of the cowling.

Rather than showing you all the pieces (you will see them in good time), I thought I would use this update to talk you through how I improved on the standard kit-supplied tail-light.

I removed the lens from the kit piece, leaving the black housing remaining. I then cut a piece of clear sprue from my FW11 left over sprue to the right shape. I then polished it with the 4 step nail file I spoke about in a previous post.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e250/billypee/Jordan%20191/IMG_1111.jpg

I stuck it to a toothpick with Blutac and painted it with clear red. No thinner required. It goes sticky and looks like a boiled sweet.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e250/billypee/Jordan%20191/IMG_1117_2.jpg

Once dry (obviously) I applied Bare Metal Foil (BMF) to the underside. The silver really makes a difference and allows the lens to catch more light. You could use X-11 but the BMF is much easier.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e250/billypee/Jordan%20191/IMG_1209.jpg

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e250/billypee/Jordan%20191/IMG_1211.jpg

I then glued it to the housing I saved from the original kit.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e250/billypee/Jordan%20191/IMG_1213.jpg

And there you have it. Looks much better than just painting some plastic red... IMHO.

Also, here is the steering wheel complete with the original Momo decal as the S27 decals omit it.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e250/billypee/Jordan%20191/IMG_1214.jpg

Regards,
Billy P

Good idea with the light Bill.It looks better than the original for sure.

The light dose look very cool I will have to give that a try some time.

Regards
Dave

How did you manage to remove the light section from the housing section? Aren't they all moulded as one piece... must have been a nightmare?

Looks very good by the way.

Very nice touch, good work.

Looking great Billy, can't wait to see this all come together.

How did you manage to remove the light section from the housing section? Aren't they all moulded as one piece... must have been a nightmare?
Quite straight-forward really. Yes, the lens and housing are one moulded item but the lens sanded off very quickly. I primed and sprayed the housing minus the moulded lens so that it was ready to go. All that is left now is to attach it to the rear upright and work out where the wiring routes to.

Thanks to the rest of you guys for the positive comments.

Regards,
Billy P

Hi Guys,

Big(ish) update :), but this time without pictures :(. I have done lots of work since last time I wrote and have learnt things that I thought I should share sooner rather than later. Also, I have a few questions that perhaps some guys on the forum can answer before I make some boobs. :lol:

FIDO DIDO
The black hoop on the top of the monocoque has a 7up logo that needed applying. Judging by the Formula Perfect Manual, some races there was no 7up logo, others there was, and for some it was the 7up logo plus the Fido Dido character (FYI: Fido Dido means Forever Young). S27 supplies the 7up and Fido Dido as a single decal, so I guessed you could just cut Fido Dido off. I thought I would leave it on. However, the 7up logo and Fido Dido doesn't really fit on the black hoop properly. So I removed Fido Dido and just about got the 7up logo to fit, although it is a little low on the black hoop for my liking... but the hoop is wider at the bottom and can accommodate the bigger decal. I guess the decal is simply too big. If anyone knows definitively, how Michael's black hoop was decalled for the Spa GP, please shout up.

COCKPIT DECALLING
Looking at the Formula Perfect Manual, there are a number of possible positions in which the FIA, Jordan, electronic shock and "Red E" stickers were applied. Also, the FIA sticker is blue on the Tamiya sheet, Red on the S27 sheet and purple in the Formula Perfect Manual. Again, if anyone knows definitively, where to position these decals and which ones appeared on Michael's ride in Spa '91, please shout up.

F1 RACING
Just so you know, this months F1 Racing magazine has a 4 page article on the Jordan 191. Interesting reading for anyone considering a build. For example, I had no idea that the bulges on the cowling were to accomodate the Ford engine... because the car was originally designed for the smaller Judd engine. Next month, the MP4/2 gets the same treatment.

Looking at the images in the article, I noticed a couple of things for anyone else considering the Schumacher/Spa build.

1) The rear induction scoops for brake-disc ventilation are the taller variety on Michael's car. I hadn't noticed this and it is a bit too late for me to do anything about that now. If I were starting over, I would scratch build the taller ones or take them from another kit.

2) The main photograph on pages 98-99 of De Cesaris looks to be wrongly stated as from Spa... his car has the lower inductions scoops, less elements in the rear wing, a revised oil radiator position and a no Tic-Tac sponsorsip.

3) There are cable stays attached between the rear wing and the cowling. Scratching them should be simple enough, but unless you plan to model this curbside, you are going to need to be creative in your attachment :)

Kind regards,
Billy P

Hi Billy

I checked a bunch of photos I have of the 191 not one of then have the Fido Dido logo on the top of the monocoque. I am not sure what tracks the photos where taken sorry I couldn't help.

Just so you know, this months F1 Racing magazine has a 4 page article on the Jordan 191

I was looking at January 2007 and don't fine a article on the Jordan 191
Unless we are a month behine here in the US I don't know.

Regards,
Dave

I was looking at January 2007 and don't fine a article on the Jordan 191
Unless we are a month behine here in the US I don't know.

Yes, sorry, it is in the February 2007 edition (Kubica/BMW cover). At least you have something to look forward to :)

Thanks for looking through your images. I am going to leave Fido Dido off the black roll hoop.

Kind regards,
Billy P

Hi guys,

The model is very, very nearly finished now. I'm just waiting for the CF on 4 items to dry properly before I apply the clear and that's it (apart from final assembly and polishing the bodywork).

Here are a couple of photos to keep you interested. The first shows the rear cowling with 4 layers of clear applied (2 coats applied 1 week apart). I will polish out the orange peel to make the cowling completely smooth.

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/172/379561483_a7f265f653_o.jpg

Next up, here is the complete engine and rear suspension. I have added the brake assembly and done some more wiring since the last photo. I attached the rear light today but still have that to wire.

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/151/379561489_74664d4332_o.jpg

Kind regards,
Bill

Looking good Bill.The clear should polish up nicely.

The scratch building on the engine is looking great Bill.

A couple more photos of the progress. First, here are the tyre and wheel assemblies. I am going to add Sakatsu valves sometime this week, but here is what they look like at the moment.

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/186/380351733_d5bdd2f582_o.jpg

And here is the finished cockpit. I still have weights on the seatbelt to make it conform to the seat so that is conveniently not visible. BTW, the Studio 27 decals also omit the Willans decals for the seatbelts. Rather than use the original decals, I decided to leave the seatbelts undecalled.

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/178/380351734_77a9772075_o.jpg

Kind regards,
Bill

It's all looking good Bill.The cockpit looks really nice with the carbon fibre decal you have applied.Nice texture on the seat as well.You could try the method I read about on here for the seatbelt decals where you apply them then add a small amount of thin liquid cement to one edge.It should spread and seat the decal onto your straps.Apparently it acts as a very strong decal setting solution.It might be worth a try.

Hi Steve,

Thanks for the pointer on that. I remember reading that tip somewhere before (think it might have been Robrex (but don't quote me on that) who originally suggested it). The original decal is quite poorly printed and you wouldn't know it said Willans unless you already knew, if that makes sense. I'll mull over it this week and see how I feel about it next weekend :)

I used MFH cloth for the seat but left it off the steering wheel (it makes the steering wheel too thick as I discovered on the 312T3). I also applied MFH cloth to the head restraint too. It looks very good and adds more textural diversity -- if that doesn't sound too arty farty.

The seatbelts were coloured with a felt pen from Hobbycraft that is used to write on T shirts... takes a few coats but works very, very well.

Kind regards,
Bill

Hi Billypee
Everything is looking good I like what you did to the engine the detail is nice. The cockpit turned out looking great good job on the C/F. What clear did you spray on to the rear cowl? It came out nice :)

What clear did you spray on to the rear cowl? It came out nice :)

Hi Dave,

The clear is from Halfords, a national automotive chain-store here in the UK. I used it to cover all the bodywork and all the CF but I haven't cleared over any other parts. If you are using clear for this first time, remember that you can destroy your decals... so make sure they have fully dried, do a couple of mist coats, then a couple of wet. I learnt the hard way on my FW11, and had some melted yellow kevlar decals (SMS).

I have used Tamiya paints in the past (for colour and clear) but I find that the automotive paints perform better and are much better value. Also, the range of colours is much greater, so you don't find yourself being limited to what Tamiya have to offer. For example, the Tyrrell I am building now/next will be painted in Halford's automotive paint because the blues on offer from Tamiya are either too light or too dark.

Hope that helps,
Bill

Really nice progress pics and details you've got there!

One question, is it the flash playing tricks on the tires picture or did you clearcoated them? They look a tad shiny but I know how pics can be very different to seeing the actual model live.

Either way, awesome build! :)

One question, is it the flash playing tricks on the tires picture or did you clearcoated them? They look a tad shiny but I know how pics can be very different to seeing the actual model live.

Hi Ayrton,

The photograph was actually taken without a flash believe it or not :eek: . I have been playing around with my camera settings in order to control DOF and try and eliminate the need for a flash.

Yes, the tryes have been clearcoated and, yes, they are a bit too shiny but not quite as shiny as the photograph would have you believe. I always clear-coat over tyre decals in order to prevent them from flaking off.

Unfortunately, I only had a gloss clear coat at the time, hence the shine. I plan to use the tyre stencils in future as they look much more realistic.

Thanks for your kind words,
Bill

P.S. Apologies for not having the correct Ay glyphs but when I preview the post, they turn into ??

Here are some progress pics to keep everyone happy:

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/148/391195850_4f9d392a3c_o.jpg

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/178/391195855_f0b8918d9a_o.jpg

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/147/391195857_1e8530feb2_o.jpg

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/128/391195860_908259866a_o.jpg

For the wheel nuts, I just used the ones that came with the kit. One side are black, one side red. I used a nail file to sand the edges for the black side. On the red side, I just completely removed all the paint from the nut, polished it, then painted it with unthinned Tamiya Clear Red... the results were fantastic.

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/141/391195863_63df67a92f_o.jpg

Just a few decals and a bit of wiring and the Jordan 191 will be complete. The wing mirrors are not yet attached as the cowling will need to go on first... in fact I may leave them just pushed in so that I can remove the cowling in future.

Once everthing is complete, I will post images in the completed projects gallery.

Comments welcome and thanks for looking.

Kind regards,
Bill