Rear brake job pointers

Hello To All!!!

I have a problem. I have worked on my car for years, doing everything from bulb replacement to major overhauls, but I have never changed the drums and shoes on my back brakes. (1994 Camaro, 3.4 l V-6, 150k, 5-speed). Chilton is confusing on this topic, (usually they are great!) and I would like some more info before I crack my lug nuts. Can I get a link to a step by step on this process, or can one of you "Maro-Guru's" give me some tips?

As usual, thank you to all who respond!

Jack

Drums are easy, dont' let them intimidate you by all the springs and stuff.

Biggest thing DO ONE SIDE AT A TIME!!!

Basically:

1- raise and support vehicle

2-remove rear wheels

3-lightly stike the side of the drum to free the shoes off of the drum to ease removal.

4-after a few taps the drum should come off with a little wiggling and twisting.

5-Study exacltly how th e springs and parking brake is oriented.

6-From here it depends on what brake setup you have, where does the book loose you?

Thanks for the reply Wright! I have always found your posts to be accurate and helpful. The book lost me from almost the getgo, it mentions many steps that I had problems following without the brakes in front of me. What I should do is read the book while the car is on stands and the back wheel is off, but like all great campains, I like to have the job planned before I open my toolbox. Also, my girl is my "daily driver" so, I want to be ready when I have the time to work on her. But I will take the wheels and drum off to study the way the brakes go together. Thanks again Wright.

Jack

Yeah, after the foremetnioned, take your time, and lay the parts out in the order they were taken off with the attempt of layering them, so that ther is no chance (reduced chance) you can go out of order putting it back together. From experience, try not to lay them directly under the wheel you're working on, they won't stay in order long :lol:

I can't tell you how many times (heck, my 68 has drums on all 4 corners) that I've done drums, and had to pear around at the other side go back and smack myself on the forehead because I went one spring out of step.

That's why I stress, dissassemble one side only, with the other as a reference. You'll be alright :thumbsup:

Oh, the book probably doesn't mention this, but take the star adjuster assembly (sets the shoe to drum clearance) apart (unscrew it), clean the threads good and put some antisieze on em so you won't lose adjustment capabilitey at a later time. Then when you put it back together, you want to set the adjustment so that the shoes are as close as they will get to the drum with out casuing a drag while putting the drum back on. This way you won't over adjsut the shoes and cause a severe drag or locking situation.

The remaining adjustment there after (drum on!!!) will be either by the parking brake or revergins the car slowoly and frequently applying the brake, the book should say wich. You want a very lsight drag for proper adjustment and pedal height.

oh, and dont leave the side on when you tear into it.. the @#$#@ drum wont come off. =P me and my dad figured that out the wrong way..

Wrightz28 are you out there?

I followed the steps you gave me 100%, even cleaned the adjustment screw and turned it all the way so it is as small as it will go. I assembled the brakes, checking the other side periodically, and every thing looks good...Now I cannot get the drums back on!! I am short about a half to a quarter of a centimeter, and dont want to force it (the drums over the new shoes):banghead: . What do I do now?

okay, here is the latest...I dont know if you guys are aware of this, but there are two sizes of shoes, primary and secondary...for thr rear brakes...once I was made aware of this the whole thing went right together...:screwy:

Sorry, bud, I take the weekends off for my projects, but yeah, that'll do it to ya. Although, there is another system out there where the shoes have the same surface area, mostly on imports tho.

Didn't we have this discussion in another forum just a few days ago? Along with the whole "self-actuating" theory, floating wheel cylinder pistons, and the whole concept? Just wanted to check...

FWIW, this is why one is supposed to be shorter (except on econobox/lightweight applications):

http://72.19.213.157/files/DrumBrakeOperation.jpg

Initial actuation would be way too aggressive with a longer shoe in the forward position.

As always guys, Thanks for the info!!