Engine squeeks at low RPM

Its a 97 taurus (that it may just be time to give up on). there is a code showing for a bad camshaft positioning sensor. The car idels at about 700 RPM and the sqeek goes away as the RPM increases. I'm thinking its an oil preasure problem, but I'm not sure if it is, and if it is what to check. This car did it for over three months, and I haven't done an oil change. Could that be the problem?

I just did a search and found on taurus club that the CMP sensor makes alot of noise when it goes bad. How do I tell if I need to replace jsut the sensor or the whole unit?

Remove the sensor from the syncronizer shaft and look inside the shaft. There should be a "C" shaped piecein the center of it. If the "C" shaped piece is not shaped correctly, this may cause the squeak. If the "C" shaped piece is completely intact, it is possible the bushing inside the shaft has worn and needs the shaft replaced. If the little "C" shaped piece is bent or broken, the syncronizer needs replaced also.

Does the syncroniser need a special tool to align it?

A little more info: on my way to work today I used a scanner to test for codes at different RPM's. I obsered that the malfunction is at below 2300 RPM. Above that, it seems to operate normaly. Does this info help for diagnosis?

Also (may be unrelated) the car started making a grinding sound and a thump while slowing down (without the brake depressed). The sound goes away when you step on the brake or accelerate. Is this related or is it a bad hub/ halfshaft? (I may have killed the hub or halfshaft getting the frozen rotor off).

Its a 97 taurus (that it may just be time to give up on). there is a code showing for a bad camshaft positioning sensor. The car idels at about 700 RPM and the sqeek goes away as the RPM increases. I'm thinking its an oil preasure problem, but I'm not sure if it is, and if it is what to check. This car did it for over three months, and I haven't done an oil change. Could that be the problem?

I just did a search and found on taurus club that the CMP sensor makes alot of noise when it goes bad. How do I tell if I need to replace jsut the sensor or the whole unit?

From what I understand there aren't any moving parts in the sensor, just the syncronizer. My '03 has the same problem, and if you feel the senson during the squeak, there is a distinct vibration at the same time. I am going to replace the syncronizer tonight and see if that should fix the problem.

Supposedly there is a special tool to install the syncro, but if you are careful and make sure you put the new one back in the same spot as the old one, you don't need it.

Z.

Also (may be unrelated) the car started making a grinding sound and a thump while slowing down (without the brake depressed). The sound goes away when you step on the brake or accelerate. Is this related or is it a bad hub/ halfshaft? (I may have killed the hub or halfshaft getting the frozen rotor off).

So are you saything that if you let off the throttle, the noise occurs, but as long as your foot is on either the accelerator or brake pedals, the grinding/thump is not present? Do you hear any rumbling noise when cruising down the highway? Any change during turns?

-Rod

"So are you saything that if you let off the throttle, the noise occurs, but as long as your foot is on either the accelerator or brake pedals, the grinding/thump is not present?"

Correct

"Do you hear any rumbling noise when cruising down the highway?"

Not sure. I can check on my way home

"Any change during turns?"

Yes. I hear the sound durring turns. I'm thinking I broke something pounding on the rotor with my hammer. The sound seems to come from the wheel area (passenger side).

From what I understand there aren't any moving parts in the sensor, just the syncronizer. My '03 has the same problem, and if you feel the senson during the squeak, there is a distinct vibration at the same time. I am going to replace the syncronizer tonight and see if that should fix the problem.

Supposedly there is a special tool to install the syncro, but if you are careful and make sure you put the new one back in the same spot as the old one, you don't need it.

Z.

Two questions:
1) is it bad for the car to drive it with the bad sensor?
2) I was looking at where it seems to hook up on my car and it seems difficult to get to. Is there a trick to this or do you have to "dig deep?"

Turned out the noise coming from the wheel was a loose brake pad. The spring on the pad wasn't seated properly. At least that is what I think it was. I won't know for sure till I drive it more than the mile test drive.

Two questions:
1) is it bad for the car to drive it with the bad sensor?
2) I was looking at where it seems to hook up on my car and it seems difficult to get to. Is there a trick to this or do you have to "dig deep?"


1) I have no idea. I understand that a bad syncro can cause problems with the injectors.

2) You have to move a wiring harness out of the way, remove the throttle linkage, and remove a coolant line. It took me about 1.5 hours to do. It's not really that difficult at all.

Z.

Two questions:
1) is it bad for the car to drive it with the bad sensor?
2) I was looking at where it seems to hook up on my car and it seems difficult to get to. Is there a trick to this or do you have to "dig deep?"

I drove with mine not working for a year without a noticable symptom. Others on this and other forums do experience performance problems.

It look like I'm going to take a shot at fixing this myself. There is no longer a squeeking sound, but the computer still throws a code for the CPS. Do I need to align the new sensor, or do I just pull off the old one and screw the new one on?

Do a search for 'Cam Sensor Taurus' on this forum. You will see a post answered by me to a post specifically titled 'Cam Sensor on 97 Taurus'. The specifics are in that response. Do not include the words 'on 97' or you will get an error message stating the words are shorter than 3 letters long.

I hope that your synchronizer vane is not too damaged or you will not be able to replace it as easily as this procedure describes. My procedure works if you can record the position of the rotating vane relative to various slots on the assembly. If it is just bent you should be able to determine and record the positions of the vane edges.

You will find complete information to replace the cam position sensor driver @ tauruscarclub.com. The driver makes a "chirping" noise when the bearing goes and usually quiets down after the engine warms up. I found a Motorcraft replacement part at an independent parts house for $99 and replaced it myself without any special tools.

You will find complete information to replace the cam position sensor driver @ tauruscarclub.com. The driver makes a "chirping" noise when the bearing goes and usually quiets down after the engine warms up. I found a Motorcraft replacement part at an independent parts house for $99 and replaced it myself without any special tools.

I can't find the post. Can you tell me where to look?

If you are asking how to find info on www.tauruscarclub.com - after on the site go to "forums" then click "search" in the bright blue box along the top. Enter "CMP" in the first box and several entries about it will come back at you.