ignition moduel

alright i dont have any spark so i tested the coil to see if it was bad well no spark so i tested to see if the coil had power....no power.... a guy i know is a mechanic he told me that it might be the ignition moduel where is it at tho and how would i test it

Try a different coil. There is no ignition module. It's the coilpack... that's all. Just replace it.

I've got the MSD coil on the way put there is no power running to the wires going tot he coil. I've already checked the fuse its good.

could it possibly be the power transistor (ignition module)???

well wheres it at and how do i test it

not sure where its located but I do know this is how you test it


Connect the negative terminal of a 1.5V power source to terminal 5 of the power transistor connector.
http://autozone.com/images/cds/jpg/small/0900823d801cbc5f.jpg (javascript:pop()
Fig. 1: Testing the power transistor



Check whether there is continuity between terminal 5 and terminal 8 when terminal 6 and the positive terminal are connected and disconnected.
Connect the negative probe of the tester to terminal 8 of the power transistor connector.

With terminal 6 and the positive terminal connected, there should be continuity between terminal 5 and terminal 8 of the connector.
With terminal 6 and the positive terminal disconnected, there should be no continuity between terminal 5 and terminal 8 of the connector.
If the results of the test are not as specified above, replace the power transistor.

isnt that for the 4g63,,,i think it is......

this should help you at least understand the ignition system in our cars.When the ignition switch is turned ON, battery voltage is applied to the ignition coil primary winding. As the crank angle sensor shaft rotates, ignition signals are transmitted from the multi port injection control unit to the power transistor. These signals activate the power transistor to cause ignition coil primary winding current to flow from the ignition coil negative terminal through the power transistor to ground or be interrupted, repeatedly. This action induces high voltage in the secondary winding of the ignition coil. From the ignition coil, the secondary winding current produced flows through the spark plug to ground, thus causing ignition in each cylinder.

Travis, there's a relay under the hood that has some control over the coil. It's called the ASD relay and I believe it's the second one from the left in the pack of 4. The pack is on the back right hand side, mounted on the firewall. You should be able to see it pretty easily. Don't just to breaking the relays though, they're definitely a pretty penny at the dealer and no aftermarket places carry them.

Edit: Also check your Crank Position Sensor. Mine was broken one time and I had no spark. I didn't check for power at the coil because it was brand new and figured it had to be something else. It's the sensor on the back of the block on the oil filter housing. Be careful when you remove it though if it's not already broken because they are pretty brittle.

ok guys i've narrowed it down i did some reading on 2gnt and i check the asd and i figured out that the coil only has power for like 2 second after u turn the switch on. so the coil has power everything is great. so this is what i narrowed it down to.

i put in NGK iridiums and they were "pre gapped" but they were at like .28 way low for a 420a because its suposed to be from .49-.53 so


A the plugs foueld out
B i blew my head gasket a while back and i warpeed some vaulves ( but it wasnt over heating at the time this happend)
C cam sensor
D crank angle sensors



OH an d i alsol tryed my ecu in a friends car to make sure it wasnt the ecu and there car started with it in it so ecu is great!

Plugs being fouled out or incorrectly gapped will have NOTHING to do with the coil having no power (or for only 2 seconds), nor will a blown headgasket. I'm still leaning towards the relay or crank sensor. I don't know if the CAS will shut down the coil or not, but I'll take a look on Mitchell and check. Were you doing any electrical work on it before it took a shit? (installing stereo, lights, etc)

EDIT: The CAS and CPS are in fact both interconnected with the coil. If both check out fine, I would check out the ASD relay, they have been known to go bad a few times before.

so did you figure it out yet travis? let us know

what is the CAS and CPS????


well i changed out my

cam sensor
crank sneor
plugs
wires


and i checked my
ASD reply
and my fuel relay
both of them are good

im leaning twards the coil went bad...my msd coil should be here anyday now hopefully tommrow



no garret i wasnt doing ANY eclitrical work the only thing i did before this happend was a tune up

new k&n air filter
fuel filter
spark plugs wires
the basic tune up nothing to do with anything elitrical

CAS is Cam Angle Sensor
CPS is Crank Position Sensor

http://i3.tinypic.com/25q9lyw.jpg

need i say more.....


i've almost got the head off all i need is the 2 bolts for the intake manni but i couldnt find them working with a spot light. ill finish it up tommrow and let you guys know something.

I had my balance shaft belt look like that one day, shattered my CPS, 3 months later my timing belt had 3-5 inches of the teeth ripped off and was smooth.

Travis is running a 420a, we don't have balance shaft belts.

Trav, I'm PRETTY sure that you've got at least a couple bent valves.

im hopeing i do :-) i've been looking for an excuse to build the motor and here it is lol

sand the finaly results......motor pass's with a A+

http://img119.imageshack.us/img119/7113/picture045an6.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/9977/picture047cw4.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/6614/picture050al8.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/7855/picture051cm2.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
and finaly my beautifle rebuild tranny
http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/7115/picture046le5.jpg (http://imageshack.us)