Need help with my headache of a Q-jet

Im about fed up with my rochester right now, it has way too much shit for it to have it work, im really consdering replacing it with a holley 650.

Im in the process of hoooking the carb back up, but theres this contraption thing for it, its a series of hoses, a relay and two cricle vaccum things and there all hooked to eachother(it makes for one big pain in the ass)

theres 4 hoses that need to attach some where, a 2 large one, a medium one and a small one.

I have the small one were it has to go, the medium one as well, but one of the larger hoses needs to go somewhere. and i cant fucking figure out where.

Anyone have diagrams, or kniow the name of this worthless contraption?

Im about fed up with my rochester right now, it has way too much shit for it to have it work, im really consdering replacing it with a holley 650.

Im in the process of hoooking the carb back up, but theres this contraption thing for it, its a series of hoses, a relay and two cricle vaccum things and there all hooked to eachother(it makes for one big pain in the ass)

theres 4 hoses that need to attach some where, a 2 large one, a medium one and a small one.

I have the small one were it has to go, the medium one as well, but one of the larger hoses needs to go somewhere. and i cant fucking figure out where.

Anyone have diagrams, or kniow the name of this worthless contraption?

Hold on tight and don't let it go yet. When I get home from work, I'll post up some pictures to help you with. Don't despair, when they're adjusted right these are really good carburetors. The thing you're referring to, if it's above the electric choke heater on the passenger side, is the choke pull-off.

If you're referring to the rest of the vacuum routing, I'll have that info later tonight. What year is your car?

Yeah, its about the rest of the vaccum routing. I have a holley 650 (4150) from another engine, but its need rebuilt. Im keeping my rochester for a lot longer, seeing as I just rebuilt it, and once I lean it out i hope ill have to stop messing with it.

mines is a 1987 im gonna put the radiator back in, and hook all the hoses up for that, and add coolant and see if itll start. its been sitting for month -_-.

maybe once I start it itll be obvious were the hose goes, like a huge leak makking all kinds of noises.

Stick with the QJ over the Holley. If you have to contend with emissions and need the computer hookup to be intact, the QJ is the way to go.

For future reference, take digital pictures of everything before you take it apart. I do that, print them out and mark them up do when I go to reassemble things they go smoother.

I have a great local carb shop, the last non-computer QJ they did for me cost $175, they charged me $250 for my last one that is more complex for the computer related stuff. I had to change it myself, but part of the deal is that I bring the car to them after and they do all the adjustments. For all the FUN that goes with a QJ rebuild, its money well spent.

Bob

I live in Michigan, we dont have emission testing up here.

but I figured out were that hose went to! and the car started :sunglasse theres nothing like hearing a very tired 305 start up at 10:30 pm with its exhaust leak and squeaky belts, lol. my neighboors will love me again, when I leave for school at 6 am. BtW im replacing the squeaking belts, its my altenator belt, and ac compressor belt, for some reason there fraying and ripping apart.

the hose went to this fuel evap thing on the driver side of the car, idk what it does but everything worked, and no vaccum leaks etc.

If you think you're having trouble with the E4ME, wait until you try to get the 4150 to work. You'll be playing with main jets on both sides, air bleeds (yes, drill/press new ones in place), secondary springs, float levels forever, trying different pump nozzles, fitting up various venturi pods to get the correct vacuum signal (which will still be a compromise), and MAY eventually get it close to what the E4ME can do. Then you'll have to come up with a distributor that can manage advance/retard/advance again in various load ranges like the ECM timing tables do (which is impossible with a mechanical vacuum adv/ret unit), and will still have to retro-rig some system to lockup the torque converter. You'll have more in Holley Track-Packs alone than the car is worth, and will never equal the primary metering capability NOR the 800CFM+ total capacity of the Rochester. All you might need to tweak the Q-Jet is a secondary hanger and pair of rods.

Since you eventually mentioned that the car is an '87 and finally cleared up that it's a 305, the vacuum routing diagram should look something like this:

http://72.19.213.157/files/YCXVacHose.jpg

Damn, sounds like a holley wont be good for me XD. now that my rochester works again, im gonna keep it, all I need is a new choke, and fix the mixture problem.

Yeah, the canister control valve, the right most hose on it, was the one I didnt know were it went, but now it has a home.

I think its time to put my car in my sig:smokin:

Mixture problem? Anything specifically? I'm sure you can find some help here...

Mixture problem? Anything specifically? I'm sure you can find some help here...
Lol, You and silicon aleready helped me with the mixture problem in my "adjusting the m/c soleniod" thread I made

Now I just need to get my lazy ass out there and do it. :icon16:

I do have a question about my choke. Its been acting up ever since I owned the car (itll be a year in jan) the choke will either work the way its supposed to, go from fully closed to slowly opening. And sometimes itll just stay closed for second then fling right open.

whats it doing?

Clean, lube, and check high idle cam? Is this sn electrically heated choke?

Clean, lube, and check high idle cam? Is this sn electrically heated choke?

I was thinking the same thing. I would suspect it'd be an electric choke, do they even make an E4MC? I know that I've had problems with the choke heater wire falling off, leading to some behavior that's so aggravating with it, I permanently zip-tied and taped it in place.

Um, weres the fast idle cam? my choke is electric. the wire going to it is fine, as is the connector clip thing fits on is tight, and doesnt budge.

http://72.19.213.157/files/E4MEexplode.jpg

The Fast Idle Cam is mounted on the RH (passenger side, except in RH drive vehicles) side of the carb, just above the throttle shaft lever. It's a little difficult in that diagram, and I don't have an E4ME available right now, but the M4ME is very similar:

http://72.19.213.157/files/M4MEFastIdleCam.jpg

Make sure the linkages (especially the cam marked by the arrow) can move freely. The fast idle cam itself should move solely by gravity.

I checked all those linkages, and they move pretty well. I sprayed a little wd-40 on them anyways.

is there something else that controls the fast idle cam. Could my cam be bad?

If the choke heater is not warming completely, or the bimetal coil is not unwinding completely, the fast idle cam may not release. They normally only engage to the highest cam step when the choke sets fully closed, and slowly back off to lower steps as the choke opens. In order for the high idle screw to fall off the cam, the throttle must be opened slightly (formerly known as "kicking down" the idle). .

If the electric choke unit gives you trouble, you're best off getting a whole new electric choke unit. Mine went in the middle of a 10 degree cold snap and I had my mechanic change it for me.

Bob