clutch bleed problems with 94 Ranger

I have a 1994 Ford Ranger/Manual Tranny. A few weeks ago i noticed it was getting hard to shift and eventually became very hard. I discovered that my clutch fluid reservior was empty. When i filled it up it became much easier to shift but the clutch was still a little mushy. so upon further studying online decided that air must've gotten into my clutch line when it was empty and it needed to be bled.

I must've not been thinking when i started bleeding because i loosened the bleed screw and then pumped the clutch in and out. obviously all this was doing was pumping air into my line. once i realized my mistake i gave it a day and then tried bleeding correctly according to Auto Zone's guide here...

AutoZone.com | Repair Info | Ford Ranger/Explorer/Mountaineer 1991-1999 | Drive Train (http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0b/ac/21/0900823d800bac21.jsp#hd1-1-2)


immediately when i loosen the bleed screw clear clutch fluid comes out, not bubbly or anything. i can tighten it and repeat it forever without any effect. if i let it drain for just a second or two it stops and nothing comes out. is this where the air bubble is? i can let it set open for a while and still nothing bleeds from it. and my clutch is complete mush. is bleeding correctly going to fix this problem? like i said, before i pumped air into my line, it worked fairly well, so i don't know what else it could be, i just can't figure our this bleeding thing.

do you guys have any suggestions or more questions. please let me know, i'd like to have a functioning truck again, thanks!

I have a 1994 Ford Ranger/Manual Tranny. A few weeks ago i noticed it was getting hard to shift and eventually became very hard. I discovered that my clutch fluid reservior was empty. When i filled it up it became much easier to shift but the clutch was still a little mushy. so upon further studying online decided that air must've gotten into my clutch line when it was empty and it needed to be bled.

I must've not been thinking when i started bleeding because i loosened the bleed screw and then pumped the clutch in and out. obviously all this was doing was pumping air into my line. once i realized my mistake i gave it a day and then tried bleeding correctly according to Auto Zone's guide here.. .do you push the clutch all the way to the floor before opening the bleeder valve?it stays on the floor and then tighten it again,then let the clutch up and then push to floor and open valve,it should only be open when clutch all the way down.i had '94 ranger manual.but prior to me ever getting it bleed successfully,i took a chance in replacing the hydraulic line from the master to the slave.i had replaced everything but that,the line had a small leak apparently,never could see it either.once replaced,it bled quickly.

AutoZone.com | Repair Info | Ford Ranger/Explorer/Mountaineer 1991-1999 | Drive Train (http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/0b/ac/21/0900823d800bac21.jsp#hd1-1-2)


immediately when i loosen the bleed screw clear clutch fluid comes out, not bubbly or anything. i can tighten it and repeat it forever without any effect. if i let it drain for just a second or two it stops and nothing comes out. is this where the air bubble is? i can let it set open for a while and still nothing bleeds from it. and my clutch is complete mush. is bleeding correctly going to fix this problem? like i said, before i pumped air into my line, it worked fairly well, so i don't know what else it could be, i just can't figure our this bleeding thing.

do you guys have any suggestions or more questions. please let me know, i'd like to have a functioning truck again, thanks!are you bleeding it correctly.the pedal should be all the way to the floor before you open bleeder valve,let the air out and tighten it before you let the clutch up.push it down again to floor and then open valve,close it and let clutch up.if this is not it, like mine was,i replaced the hydraulic line from the master to the slave(the only part i had not replaced)that fixed it.apparently it had a leak,and you could not see it.

are you bleeding it correctly.the pedal should be all the way to the floor before you open bleeder valve,let the air out and tighten it before you let the clutch up.push it down again to floor and then open valve,close it and let clutch up.if this is not it, like mine was,i replaced the hydraulic line from the master to the slave(the only part i had not replaced)that fixed it.apparently it had a leak,and you could not see it.

Thanks for the reply! I've tried to bleed it the way you have said, first and no luck. then i have read many articles like the one on auto zone that suggests to open the bleed screw and then push the clutch in - hold and close the screw. but that didn't help either.

how fast did your leak take to be noticed when you would fill? If mine is a leak it isn't noticable after 3 weeks so far.

My father is coming today and we'll try again, if it doesn't work i may look into the line itself.

Thanks for the reply! I've tried to bleed it the way you have said, first and no luck. then i have read many articles like the one on auto zone that suggests to open the bleed screw and then push the clutch in - hold and close the screw. but that didn't help either.

how fast did your leak take to be noticed when you would fill? If mine is a leak it isn't noticable after 3 weeks so far.

My father is coming today and we'll try again, if it doesn't work i may look into the line itself.i never did see the leak,it was not leaking fluid out,i think it sucked air in somewhere on the hydraulic line--soon as i changed it,the bleeding was easy.the only thing though,i could only get the line from ford,even a guy who makes them said he was not allowed legally.

my neighbor is a ford mechanic and checked it out. he said since there is absolutely no pressure being built up from pumping the clutch (when you bleed it there isn't any type of strong flow at all, just a slow trickle)... than he thought the master cylinder must have gone or have a air leak somewhere not allowing pressure to build in the line. The slave looks good and is no trace of leak there, so it probably is the master.

does that sound right to everyone else? i guess there's no way of really knowing other than buying the part and replacing it. i'd rather not spend that money and then find out it's something else though if it is though, what's your thoughts?

my neighbor is a ford mechanic and checked it out. he said since there is absolutely no pressure being built up from pumping the clutch (when you bleed it there isn't any type of strong flow at all, just a slow trickle)... than he thought the master cylinder must have gone or have a air leak somewhere not allowing pressure to build in the line. The slave looks good and is no trace of leak there, so it probably is the master.

does that sound right to everyone else? i guess there's no way of really knowing other than buying the part and replacing it. i'd rather not spend that money and then find out it's something else though if it is though, what's your thoughts?you are into it,i would replace it,from what i recall the master was not that much.i replaced everything except the line and that was my main problem,although the clutch plate did need replaced.good luck.