Clutch Options

Haha, I read the other thread titled "which clutch", but I felt that this didn't exactly fit in that other thread (and I didn't want to jack his thread), so I have a quick question for you guys and I hope you guys know your drivetrain!

I have a worn clutch and I'm in the market for a new disc. I have my eyes set on a race disc, but I want to keep cost down as much as possible. What I want to know, is: Would I be able to use the stock pressure plate with a race clutch disc or would it be too much for the stock pressure plate? Would the race disc affect the durability/performance of the stock pressure plate at all? Should I get a race ready pressure plate to compliment the race disc? I'm all for dishing out a bit of extra cash to make things work smoothly, but I don't want to spend money on something I don't need. Thanks..

Yeah, I would just do both. I would also suggest a sprung 6 or 4 puck 2600. I dont think they are too expensive. I just drove my buddy's del sol with a sprung 3 puck stage 2 exedy clutch and uber lightweight flywheel. That shit was bananas. Sprung pucked clutches and lightweight flywheels are the shit. This faggot ass grand am wanted to race. Yeah, that was funny. He was a stock V6 (not sure if it was a grand am, but it was some domestic 4dr V6) and Eric's del sol has I/H/E and the clutch and 7.5lb flywheel. I didnt even launch and at the end of 3rd gear I had easily a bus length and a half on him. Anyway, back on topic, I would suggest a sprung pucked clutch. :)

7.5 pound flywheel? Holy shiiiit. I also heard about durability issues regarding the exedy clutches...

Haha, so it would be fine if I used a race clutch on the stock pressure plate without any below OEM performance issues and durability, correct?

I'll definitely replace the entire clutch assembly, but for now, I just want to get the clutch disc. I'm just trying to get the most needed parts in first just so I can get my car back on the road -- so that kind of explains why I'm trying to cut costs down as much as possible and I'm sure many people understand :)

I wouldnt do that. I would just save up and get the whole thing. If you just have the clutch disk, I would imagine that the disk would get worn to the pp, then a new pp would cause it to not work as well as it should. If you were to use a different disk with the old pp, I would just get another used one or a autozone or something.

I would just replace the whole assembly....usually when you kill a disc the pressure plate is done too....and even just regular use can warp your pressure plate enough to where you probably wouldnt want to keep it around....

DSM drivetrains and puck clutch discs do not get along well, even sprung. But sprung is better than solid. Of course then you give up one of the only advantages puck clutches really have in my opinion; low weight. ;) PEople often do lower the pressure plate pressure significantly when using pucked clutches, like a 2100 instead of a 2600. A stock might be too light, but if there was a reason to use one, it should be a new one, not the used one you already have in there.

The vast majority of people on this forum will do well going to an ACT 2600. I don't recomend even bothering with a 2100. You can also look into SBR and other comapanies equivelant of the 2600. The main point being a full face organic disc. At high HP levels organic discs can be tricky, but the only worthwhile alternative IMO is a twin disc clutch from PTT, Tiliton, Quartermaster, etc, and those are much more expensive and come with thier own list of problems to deal with :)