ECU code 0 on LX sedan

I recently blew up the stock D15B2 in my EF sedan (LX) (5 spd), replaced it with
1)a D15B2 block/D16A6 head combo,
2)SI intake (MPFI swap) with fuel rail, and EG injectors (92-95)
3)resistor box from an Accord (hope it's ok),
4)HF dizzy (had it laying around),
5)used a PM6 from an 88 SI,

Did all the wiring, as per the 10 million walkthroughs online for the MPFI swap (which count the ECU pinouts wrong, by the way), and now, the engine starts, when it's cold, but it's loading up with fuel after running to operating temp and I turn it off, then it don't wanna start again... When this happens, the CEL stays on, the main relay doesn't click, but if you wait like 15 mins, the car will start again, and run on it's own... has almost no power driving, idles erratically at about 1000 rpm, And the Tach is also erratic... it bounces while you rev it from idle, always at a different point depending on the throttle you're giving it. the CEL isn't always on, after you start the car, it goes out for awhile, but if you wait, it will come back on, checked the LED in the ECU, no code. I'm tearing my hair out trying to get this car running.... it's starting to piss me off. please help. :banghead:

Whitch tutorial tells you the wrong pinout?

I have about 5 of them printed out, and all of them say to use B10 and B12, then wire C1 to B10, and C2 to B12 (in more words than that), however honda's pinout diagrams count from left to right, then second row, left to right, so the pinouts given for C and B plug were wrong, and for A plug, they counted right. basically, from honda, their pinouts are supposed to be read as you're looking at the wire side of the clip, starting with top, left to right, then bottom, left to right... instead of how you count pins in a computer, top to bottom, toward the right.

Just so you know, I"m not here to dispute the walkthrough, I just need help with this issue.

You know the pins are also counted from the backside, not the front? Sounds like you wired it wrong.

If you had read that post correctly, you would have noticed that you just said the same exact thing as I did, in different words... where I stated that "basically, from honda, their pinouts are supposed to be read as you're looking at the wire side of the clip" yeah.. that means from the back... the side that DOESN'T plug into the ECU.

Aside from that, the plug tells you what pin you're looking at... it's numbered... I can't believe the person that wrote the walkthrough didn't notice that... or read a manual or something.

But AGAIN I'm not here to dispute the walkthrough, I've had my wiring checked like 30 times now. I did find out that I had the cover to the ECU on backwards, which is why I couldn't see it flashing a code... however, now I have no spark to the dizzy... tried wiring the coil direct to the battery, still nothing... car was running fine after I took the injector resistor box out... (92-95 injectors don't need it)

We tried so far:

Resetting the ECU (again)
Retesting all the connections (again)
Testing the dizzy with an Ohm meter.. (at the coil... no reading on either test)Car was running this morning, still severely lacking power, started up fine until I pulled the plugs out to check for signs of "loading up" the cylinders with fuel... after that, got no spark from the dizz.

So the code 0 thing was prolly false, b/c i fucked up there... but now the problem has migrated... so any help would be appreciated.

Ok, this is an update.

We're making progress...

Changed the main relay,
Changed the FPR,
Igniter was dead in the dizzy, changed that for the one from the DPFI dizzy
Made a jumper harness for the grounds on all the injectors out of the jumper from a 92-95 harness, coupled with the Accord Resistor box plug end (So it's easily swappable in case we decide to run Peak/Hold injectors again)NOW, the car starts everytime, starts up after 3 or less rolls... the only things left are the following:

We have a nasty advance in the ignition timing... by something like 16-20 degrees
The ECU is spitting a code 16 at me after the engine runs for 30 seconds or so, or after it reaches approx 3k rpmWe have the advance narrowed to two things, one will be verified in the morning.

Checking to see if the reluctor in the Si dizzy is set at a different angle than in the HF dizzy, and if so, building a hybrid Dizzy to work with this engine.
The cam jumped a tooth off while tightening the belt again, this will be checked tomorrow as well.