Stuck Rotor

I went to take the front rotor off of my 97 taurus and its stuck. I sprayed it with some rust eater and waited a couple of hours, still stuck. HELP please.

Sometimes the Rust Eater needs some encouragement to wick into the depths of the rust. I usually use Blaster PB and spray it around the center hub and around each of the wheel studs. After a few seconds, smack the rotor hub with a hammer to help the penetrant penetrate.

You may also need to use a rubber mallet or similar to help break the rotor loose.

Check the rotors for two little holes in the hub surface. If there are two holes almost across from each other, they are likely threaded. Find a couple of hardened bolts that fit the threads and use them to walk the rotor off.

If that still doesn't work, get out the air hammer and use it between the wheel studs. I've never had one that wouldn't come loose after treatment with a penetrant and air hammer.

-Rod

In the past I have replaced the rotors, so I know that they are not threaded. So far, I have sprayed it with PB blaster and smacked it with a mallet. I let it soak over night and I plan on trying to get it off again when I get home. Will I screw anything up if I hit it with a hammer instead of a mallet? I do plan on replacing the rotors, so I'm not worried about damadging the rotors.

If you plan to smack it with a regular hammer, wear hearing protection, and of course safety glasses. You probably won't screw anything else up though.

As for being threaded, I'm not referring to something holding the rotors on, but threaded holes that are there to help you take them off. I'm not sure how else to describe them. Some cars have them (most imports) and some don't. Some aftermarket rotors have them, some don't. It's too bad they all don't, they come in quite handy.

-Rod

I tried the penetrant and the hammer. No luck. I'm going to try the air hammer. How long does it usualy take? this one is realy stuck. The car sat for a couple of mothns and the rotors rusted up something fierce. Also, why apply the air hammer on the side the tire slips over and not on the outside edge of the rotor pushing the rotor away from the car? I checked for threaded holes. unfortunatly, these rotors don't have them.

I tried the penetrant and the hammer. No luck. I'm going to try the air hammer. How long does it usualy take? this one is realy stuck. The car sat for a couple of mothns and the rotors rusted up something fierce. Also, why apply the air hammer on the side the tire slips over and not on the outside edge of the rotor pushing the rotor away from the car? I checked for threaded holes. unfortunatly, these rotors don't have them.

Since you are planning to replace the rotors, you could use the air hammer on the back surface of the rotor. When hammering on the hub, it is usally possible to reuse the rotors. With a good air hammer and the blunt hammer tip, it usually would only take about 10 seconds of hammering in a couple of spots on the face of the hub.

-Rod

As usual, I appreciate the help. I tried the blunt tipped air hammer (not sure its a good one) and the rotors still wouldn't come off. I have a freind who is a shop mechanic (who I usualy try to leave alone about my cars). He came over and had a go at it with a 10 poind mini sledge. It still wouldn't come off. We heated it with mapping gas, poured some water on it to weaken the metal, than wailed on it with the hammer some more. The fins borke off the rotors (we did this on both sides) and the circular part of the rotor that lies against the hub split in half. At that point it came off. Fortunatly, the hubs survived the experience.

Thanks again for all of the help.

Ironicaly, on my way home from work my other car (that one a sable) had the speed censor "malfunction" (at least thats the code it threw) so I'll need the taurus tomorrow. One day both cars will work at the same time. Really they will.

Wow! You may want to use a very thin layer of anti-seize compound between the rotor and hub on the new one.

-Rod

I used white lithium.

Hopefully just a very thin layer of it. You don't want the heat from braking to cause the grease to flow and get on the braking surfaces.

-Rod