Rear Quarter Windows

Anyone ever have the power rear quarters just quit out of the blue?
The fuse is good, and I checked the connections after dropping the overhead console. I don't have any power to what I think is the positive/brown wire, but I can't be sure. I have a manual for a older Venture, but don't know if it is the same.

Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.
We hardly ever use them, but I hate to let things slide or pretty quick I have a total POS:icon16:

Anyone ever have the power rear quarters just quit out of the blue?
The fuse is good, and I checked the connections after dropping the overhead console. I don't have any power to what I think is the positive/brown wire, but I can't be sure. I have a manual for a older Venture, but don't know if it is the same.

Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.
We hardly ever use them, but I hate to let things slide or pretty quick I have a total POS:icon16:
I think you need to look at a different connector (C4 - the blue one) on the back of the "multifunction switch". Check out the YELLOW wire at pin E of that connector. That is what my factory manual says. This should be about 12 volts when the key is on (or in ACC). I believe it comes through fuse 19 (http://www.my-chevy-venture.com/fuses.html) on the right side of the instrument panel (when you open the passenger side door).

I hope this helps.

Take Care,

I think you need to look at a different connector (C4 - the blue one) on the back of the "multifunction switch". Check out the YELLOW wire at pin E of that connector. That is what my factory manual says. This should be about 12 volts when the key is on (or in ACC). I believe it comes through fuse 19 (http://www.my-chevy-venture.com/fuses.html) on the right side of the instrument panel (when you open the passenger side door).

I hope this helps.

Take Care,

Yes, the yellow would appear to be the hot wire, but I have a strange thing happening. If I take my meter, I have around 11 volts at the reading lights and the yellow wire. If I take my test light, it will light for the reading/map lights, but not for the yellow wire(I grounded a couple of different places)

It's as if maybe I am getting a false reading for the window circuit.
I tested the switch, and I can get continuity on the other pins when I rock it one direction or the other. This still does not explain why I can't get the test light to light(with the key on, of course) but have a 11 volt reading:screwy:

The other thing I did was run a jumper wire from the yellow to either the black or brown(which I believe run back to the motors) and they did nothing.
Makes me wonder if I have a bad connection at the fuse block?

....It's as if maybe I am getting a false reading for the window circuit. I tested the switch, and I can get continuity on the other pins when I rock it one direction or the other. This still does not explain why I can't get the test light to light(with the key on, of course) but have a 11 volt reading:screwy: ....

Does any of the wiring run under the kick plate (the door sill) in the channel on the driver's side or passenger side of the vehicle?

I had this happen with my power locks. A false reading under 12 volts at the switch. Couldn't trace it.

Turned out to be a bad, corroded wiring harness (wires and connectors were corroded) under the kick plate. Water damage. Replacing the wire and splicing into the harness corrected the problem.

Water from the Air/Con was seeping under the carpet on the driver's side and into the channel.

Have a look and see if this is a root cause.
.

Does any of the wiring run under the kick plate (the door sill) in the channel on the driver's side or passenger side of the vehicle?

I had this happen with my power locks. A false reading under 12 volts at the switch. Couldn't trace it.

Turned out to be a bad, corroded wiring harness (wires and connectors were corroded) under the kick plate. Water damage. Replacing the wire and splicing into the harness corrected the problem.

Water from the Air/Con was seeping under the carpet on the driver's side and into the channel.

Have a look and see if this is a root cause.
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Thanks for that tip. I took a peak under the carpet in the "water trough" and found a splice that was badly corroded. Fixed it and the windows work now.:grinyes:

All the other wires looked fine, but what caused that moisture?!@#
My A/C drains as normal to the outside, but makes me wonder if something else is plugged.

Anyone have any ideas?
Or do we just have to live with it.

...All the other wires looked fine, but what caused that moisture?!@# My A/C drains as normal to the outside, but makes me wonder if something else is plugged....Anyone have any ideas? Or do we just have to live with it.

Two schools of thought on this one. First, the possibility that the windshield leaks and the water follows the frame to the "A" pillars and down to the channel. Possible, but not probable.

Second thought, that the tray on the air conditioner evaporator backs up due to a plugged drain from time to time. My drain bearly clears the insulation on the firewall. In fact, if you didn't feel around, you wouldn't even see it.

I think for $0.15 GM could have included a down pipe made from nylon or PVC pipe attached to the tray and extending through the firewall pointing downward. Would make sense, but like many things on this van, common sense has not been applied, nor has conmmon sense engineering.

Appears to me to be the making of a generation of engineers who lack the experience to do it right. Will only come back to haunt GM, I think.
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My 2000 Montana had the same problem it was a broken wire under th kick plate on the passanger side