Cheep turbo setup

Hey guys got some new questions

Lately I’ve been focusing on getting my car to peak performance with simple bolt on mods and first off were the headers, Intake sys, stabalizer bars F/B, and I’m saving up for JWT S3 cams.

But yesterday while shopping at a parts store I came across some Garret Turbos for sale at an incredible price! (NEW $300). Now they guys there told me that they themselves did not do the install but I could talk to a guy who did. To make the long story short here is what happened:

I went to the guys shop and was currently installing one of those turbos on (get this) a Hyundai! He told me the turbo model was a GARRET GT1495 or a T4 (?) I know nothing about turbos so maybe this one is for a diesel engine. . . or maybe they are the same and It does not matter. (I don’t know that’s why I’m setting this post) he told me I needed a Blow Off valve, Turbo Gage, and an oil intercooler as the turbo is cooled of by oil and not water. Needed custom piping and finally to reduce my compression.

I’m cool with all the parts, I always like to be able to take things off if something goes wrong (hence bolt on mods) but two things that worry me are reducing my compression and taping into the oil sys of my engine to cool of the turbo (drilling : ( ).

Do I really need to lower my compression and how can I do this? What happened to the intercooler? Don’t I need one? What is the safe limit in lbs. I can run before destroying my engine he said the turbo can put out up to 22 lbs. but he recommends 8 at the most.

PART 2: after talking turbo for a while we went for a spin on the just finished Hyundai. . . the car ran quite well with its 1,500 cc engine and made a beautiful sound Pfft! After speeding up and down an abandoned road testing the acceleration we came to a stop and popped the hood to see why so much smoke was coming from the engine bay. Turns out the engine spit out the oil rod and splattered oil all over the engine also the oil cap seemed to be leaking oil. Could this have been do to excess oil temperature and internal pressure that the Hyundai engine could not handle or is there something really wrong?

He also told me I had to let my car run for 10 min before turning it off (to let the turbo cool)

Does this setup sound safe to you guys?


Thanks

I'm not sure what happenned to the hyundai, but I can say a couple of things:

1. Saab used to use oil-fed turbos years ago. They don't any more, for a couple of reasons: firstly, if the oil changes are missed, then dirty oil running through the turbo causes a great deal of wear and tear which breaks the turbo. Secondly, because the turbo heats the oil up too much, which in turn drops the pressure. This can either lead to the engine overheating because it's pumping super-hot oil through it, or as the oil gets hot, the oil pressure gets too low and doesn't feed the engine properly (consider your pistons melted). If you are going to use an oil-fed turbo, you need to fit an intercooler or very big oil cooler. The opposite consideration here is that you use already hot oil from the engine to cool a very hot turbo, which of course it doesn't. Bingo, turbo melts.

2. You will need to reduce compression ratios on your engine. Turbos need to spin at a uniformal rate. A high compression ratio puts a lot of on-load, off-load, on-load (etc) force on the engine. For normal engines this isn't a problem, since the flywheel dampens it out, but think about your poor turbo. It's happy running at it's obscene rpm, then along comes a massive load hammering down on it. The turbo begins to come with the load, then suddenly it's released, which causes the turbo to spin off into oblivion. Again, get it wrong and either your turbo or engine will disappear in a shower of metal.

Turbos are delicate things. The problem is that they spin at stupidly high rpms and use potentially still-burning gas to power them. The high rpms mean that everything must be machined down to incredible tolerances, but the extremely high temperature just goes and makes all the metal expand and warp into a different shape (hence cancelling out the tolerances).

So, once you've managed to get all the dynamics of the turbo sorted out, you've then got to consider the impact on the engine. Is the engine capable of the extra power? I'm not just talking a few extra bhp here, but think about the moment the turbo engages - engine running quite happily, then suddenly struck by a huge power-rush. This sudden increase alone could produce a stupidly high power (which of course, doesn't actually relate to the overall bhp of the engine).

In other words, if you are going to fit a turbo, be very careful about how you do it. You've got three options:

1. get an engine/turbo combination - i.e. let the manufacturer do the hard work.

2. get your calculator out and be prepared to do the maths before tinkering. Get your input rpms, output rpms, compression ratios, cut-in rpms and cooling ratios right on paper, and it'll work like a dream.

3. use the trial-and-error approach, but be prepared to buy a couple of turbos and a couple of engines (maybe even a couple of new fingers) in the process.

Sorry, didn't mean to be depressing!

ah forget all that shit, let the hynda guy slap a turbo on there, and just make sure to cool the oil, there is a guy in canada that did it to an automatic g20 he set it on like 5 psi, puting out like 200 something, i say go for it and let warranty handle the rest. ;)

Cutting your compression ratio is a step that is optional if your engine is a low compression engine. I'd say anything more than 9.5:1 and you should probably cut the compression ratio, if you are going to intercool the charged air then you will be able to run a higher compression ratio. The main concern in this is to avoid detonation, detonation is usually a result of excess heat, and since turbos are run by exhaust gas they heat up the charged air before it enters the engine. Intercooling the charged air will drop its temperature and reduce your chances of detonation. Now if you dont want to cool the charged air, then cutting the conpression ratio can be a costly venture, but its your choice, it will cut the power your engine makes naturally aspirated, but will allow you to increase the boost level that you want to run (7psi is a typical boost with stock compression ratio). Another issue is will your fuel system be able to supply enough fuel for it to run without "leaning out" (running with too little gas), if you engine leans out the worst that will happen is that you will "window" one or more pistons(put holes in them...thats bad). If your fuel system is a returnless system you may have to pay for pricey ecu's or reprogramming, if it isn't you should be able to use a rising rate fuel pressure regulator, that monitors the MAP and adjusts fuel accordingly. Detonation will window your pistons just like leaning out so make sure you have enough fuel, and that your air is cool. So onto cooling, oil cooling shouldn't be a problem but incorporate a large oil cooler to be safe. make sure to keep up on your oil changes, and another thing, unless you invest in a turbo timer, make sure you let the engine idle for 5-10 minutes after driving so that the ceramic turbine has a chance to cool or elso it will crack or shatter. Remember, compression ratio is subjective, the guys at sport compact magazine turboed a matrix with 11.5:1 compression ratio and ran 7 psi boost, without cutting the ratio at all...and they ran the car on pump gas. That reminds me use high octane gas only to help resist detonation...sorry i kinda rambled but there is a lot of stuff to know about turbos, and i only scratched the surface, hope ive been help. And by the way, turbos are the most cost effective way of boosting power. but you will probably have to ditch those headers you have for som turbo headers. Have a good time with the turbo, i know i do.

It seems to me that your problem is too much pressure in the crankcase.. (under boost..), do you think about this when adapted the unit???, do you relocate the hoses of the crank case ventilation system???, sorry for my poor english..,
Erik