Need help on TS36 Fluorescent red. Please help me out

Hi,

I'm quite new to modeling and hopefully anyone can give me any advise. I'm currently in the progress of making my new kit TAMIYA Super GT ARTA NSX. I used TS36 fluorescent red as recommended in the manual and it's supposed to look like this http://www.hlj.com/product/TAM24288. But, mine turned out really red instead of fluorescent. It looked like some solid red and no fluorescent at all. Anyone have any idea what happened? Or is there any other colour that i can use to replace TS36? Is it possible to mix a fluorescent red out of Tamiya acrylic paint? I'd really appreciate any help! Thanks!

A Photo of your model would help. What primer did you use?? Flourescent colours are translucent and should be applied over white to get the correct hue/shade. Maybe this was your problem. TS36 is normally reliable - I used it a few times with no problems.

Like this,

http://images15.fotki.com/v260/photos/8/823979/3078269/DSCN0505-vi.jpg


It sounds like you may have to start again - applying further coats won't solve the problem I'm afraid. You'll need to strip the paint off of the body, reprime with white primer and reshoot your TS36.

Whoops!

How many coats of paint did you apply?

The model is molded in white. In this case, is primer needed? Can a white or pure white spray be used instead?
Also, how do i strip the paint off the body? Thanks!
PS: i took a pic using my digi cam but it looked slightly fluorescent in it. However, its solid red when looked at using bare eyes.


Could it be that i've sprayed the paint too thick? Is there anyway i can mix flourescent red out of tamiya acrylic paint?


I didn't use any primer because i'm worried it'll get too thick. so i just sprayed 3 coat of TS36 on it since the body is molded in white. I've noticed that i got a slightly brighter or fluorescent red on the one part that i only sprayed one thin layer coat of TS36. btw, is there any such thing as mixing fluorescent colour out of acrylic paint?


Sheene machine, your bike's fluorescent red is the one i wanted but mine just looked solid red!:banghead:

The pics i took today
Note that the area i circled is the slightly fluorescent look spot compared to the whole body and yes, i messed up the wing :frown:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v518/Eugene_kho/zDSC02585.jpg

And the body... looked slightly brighter than what it would look like using bare eyes (maybe of the higher exposure rate i used)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v518/Eugene_kho/zDSC02583.jpg


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v518/Eugene_kho/zDSC02577.jpg


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v518/Eugene_kho/zDSC02568.jpg

Please advice.:eek:

Looking at the photos it raises more questions to me.

Did you spray any mist coats or just heavy coats?
How much time did you leave between coats?

I suggest you perhaps strip the paint and start again, the red looks very heavy and uneven suggesting you didn't use any mist coats and just layed down some heavy coats.
Primer would also help the paint stay more even as it gives the paint something to bond too as opposed to just the plastic.

There are several subjects on painting covered in the How To and FAQ sections, you may find some interesting pointers there which could help you resolve the problems experienced here.

Finally, please use the EDIT feature.

Looks to me like the paints coats have pooled , ie the paint has run into spots on the body creating darker shaded areas which you refer to as solid red. Looking at the photos - the red looks to flouresce ok - just the body has darker patches about. You will need to do what Freakray has suggested and strip it all off. Use a white primer, 2 or 3 lights coats should be fine - allow to dry overnight and gently wet sand with a fine grade paper to smooth it out. Then reshoot your TS36, a couple of light coats at first, then slowly build up the coats. The first coats will almost look pink - don't be fooled into applying the coats heavy at this stage - slowly does it! Allow some time between coats - 10 minutes or so - 3 to 4 heavier coats should get the coverage you looking for. Oh - and read the FAQ and How to's - they are very good and designed for newcomers.

Looks like you have sprayed too heavily and the paint has built up in areas and dried thick. Probably best to strip off the paint, prime with Tamiya primer and mist the coats of TS36. Primer and the mist spraying will provide a key for the paint. I find that Tamiya aerosols are usually quite thin and run easily at the best of times.

Sigh, but the wierd thing is that it looked solid red to me all over the whole body :frown: I did spray light mist but somehow it ended up too thick thanks to my itchy hand :banghead: I left it about 10 mins in between each coat.

I've only got a grey tamiya primer which i never use because i've no idea how to wash it off and i'm afraid to use it on my airbrush because i didn't know how to clean the airbrush after that. Please guide me :frown:
Also i didn't know how to strip the paint off for now or do i have to get another new kit? :eek: Do i sand it off?

Sigh, this is supposed to be my favourite kit and it turned out to be my worst kit because this is the first time i use tamiya spray can on body paint.

I just need to know how to strip off the paint for now...and another problem...seems like TS36 had ran out of stock in my area :banghead:

I tried Tamiya TS-36 on a Tamiya Mclaren model once and I didn't like the way it turned out.It seemed too red and not 'orange' enough although I've never seen the McLaren for real.I found it tended to run quite easily and go darker in places if applied too heavily.
I would certainly have used white primer under the paint as I'm sure the TS36 will stick far better and you'll get a more even finish than spraying on the bare plastic itself.I think the other guys are right the TS-36 needs to be built up in very light coats to get an even coverage,if you spray it too thick it will just run into pools and create dark areas.Strip the body and start again.I think brake fluid or Isopropyl Alchohol is the usual methods recommended on here to strip the body.I think Finishers also make a Flourescent Red and also McLaren Red which is a good match for the car you are building.I've not tried it myself but I have used other Finishers paints and they do spray very nicely with the airbrush and dry incredibly fast with a beautiful shine.Good luck with it anyway.

Thanks! :) Do i dip the whole body into the brake fluid? or do i apply it slowly? Yup, TS36 (for me) didn't really turn out to be the fluorescent red (with more orange) as i expected. Oh, is grey primer gonna give the fluorescent red as expected or must it be a white primer? Acrylic paint are easy to come off with water but primer seems much more stubborn :(

You need to get a container and fill it with brake fluid then immerse the model in it and leave it to soak perhaps overnight.I have done some where the paint has come off in one go and others where I have had to re soak the body several times to get all the paint off.I usually give the model a good scrub with a tooth brush and some dish washing detergent after the soaking to help loosen the paint.You may also want to test a bit of the brake fluid on the model first just to be safe.It shouldn't hurt the plastic but you never know.Also I would use the white primer.The Flourescent red will be useless over the grey primer.

Thanks! :D Do i use the common dot 3 or dot 4 brake fluid?

Looks like tamiya's got only one, the spray can white primer i can opt for..
:( guess i'll start to order online for now. Btw, what company is 'Finishers' ? Where can i find the fluorescent red mentioned? I tried in ebay but no luck.

As has been mentioned, you should really pay a visit to the FAQ. Not only is applying paint well covered in the FAQ, so is stripping paint and where to find online supplies.

Since you're in Malaysia, your best bet for online supplies will be either mediamixhobby.com.sg or hlj.com

I've always used DOT4.Try this link for the Finishers paint (there are a few pages of them.They do a Lumi Red and a McLaren Red.I think both would be suitable.They are used in the airbrush and are sort of like the Tamiya TS sprays but in a jar.The McLaren red actually has three stages to the application.A white,then a pink sort of undercoat,then the flourescent coat on top.Have a look here for the Finishers paint.

http://hobbyworld.aoshima-bk.co.jp/scripts/hw/kengte.aspx?sc=23


Type Finishers in the search box and they should come up.

Thanks barry, exhaust smoke, freakray and stevenoble! :) I've bought a bottle of DOT 4 brake fluid today and dipped in my testing piece car body and i'll wait to see how it end up tomorrow. Thanks for the big help guys! U were great! :) I'll update on how it goes for the stripping progress. I've ordered new paint and white primer from HLJ and waiting for them to arrive :D

Yup, everything came off just nice except those stubborn one in lines :(

I think whether a problem is already settled
The old painting had better strip it off if not settled
If it is paint of Tamiya, I can easily drop it with thinner for normal models
But undercoating declines together, too
Of a manual if is particular to do it; surfacer (white)→ ts31 → ts36 will be good
I do not understand it whether I come over and handle a Japanese burr if not particular about a manual, but it is possible for a near color to a true car with finishers color and a Lumi red + pure orange of saying paint
I send an image of ARTA NSX that my production is in the way
http://www.geocities.jp/hinasannzu/gazou/SEISAKU2/ARTA_NSX_07.JPG

Hi Hinasan,

I don't quite get what you mean :) But i've tried like the seniors here told me before, primer then TS36 and i got quite a satisfying result this time :)


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v518/Eugene_kho/zDSC03080.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v518/Eugene_kho/zDSC03075.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v518/Eugene_kho/zDSC03086.jpg

I've left it to dry for about a week now for my next TS26 :) Thanks for the info anyway :)

Always always prime before spraying colour... i think those paint pools are due to that u didnt prime the model... i dont see any other way to get those pools unless u spray on a spot for awhile lol... which i doubt u did anyway.. good luck

Here, after my second colour. I've waited for the first paint to dry for almost a month now :D and the masking tape couldnt do the paint any harm (plus i take them off within 2 hrs) I'm gonna start my next colour few days later :)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v518/Eugene_kho/DSC03302.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v518/Eugene_kho/DSC03297.jpg

While i'm at that, i might as well post some of my previous amatuer projects :)
I'm not a good photographer so the layout was lousy :P

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v518/Eugene_kho/DSC03011.jpg
I did the wing using studio 27's carbon decal
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v518/Eugene_kho/DSC03000.jpg

Comes with photoetched part :)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v518/Eugene_kho/DSC02995.jpg


PIAA Accord with INGs wing
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v518/Eugene_kho/DSC03149.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v518/Eugene_kho/DSC03147.jpg

ITR's
^_^

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v518/Eugene_kho/DSC02650.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v518/Eugene_kho/DSC02603.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v518/Eugene_kho/DSC02670.jpg
S2K with INGs wing
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v518/Eugene_kho/DSC02250.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v518/Eugene_kho/DSC02171.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v518/Eugene_kho/DSC02284.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v518/Eugene_kho/DSC02306.jpg


Four more Super GT NSX's coming up :D

TAKATA nsx is an announced decare change than a Tamiya model, but epson, raybric, arta, the release that want to try to make four of them even with takata are November the other day

It is the Japanese which is my work exhibit space
http://www.geocities.jp/hinasannzu/TENNJI.htm

Wow!! COOL!! I always wanted to know how you put on the red colour for the honda badge.