best oil for 3.8L Lumina

Okay this thread's gonna get sticky!... I'm about to change the oil for the first time in my '99 lumina LTZ (3.8L) (65K) I was wondering what are some good oil's to use. I use Castrol 10W30 in my '93 lumina (3.1). I didn't know if the 3.8 would make any difference. Any thoughts???

Okay this thread's gonna get sticky!... I'm about to change the oil for the first time in my '99 lumina LTZ (3.8L) (65K) I was wondering what are some good oil's to use. I use Castrol 10W30 in my '93 lumina (3.1). I didn't know if the 3.8 would make any difference. Any thoughts???

I have the same car. I use an AC Delco filter and Mobil 1 10-30.

Corndog

I like Valvoline semi-syn or full syn...both good oil. Most oil is good oil anymore...the worst rated oil today is much better than the best rated oil 20 years ago...it's hard to go wrong..

If you were asking about the grade, 10w30 is fine...I don't use 5w30 even when they are new...the manual lists both grades as acceptable.

I think they like to put 5w in them when new because they get slightly better fuel economy running it...

c'mon guys valvoline or valvoline max and an ac-delco filter.

suppose this would be a good place to post a link to a great oil filter study.

http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterstudy/oilfilterstudy.html

1999 Lumina 3.8liter LTZ. I buy the cheapest oil and filter I can find. Usually at WalMart. Sometimes real good deals can be found at garage sales or estate sales. If I have to mix brands, I do it. Normally I do not mix grades, but it doesnt bother me to do it if I am a bit short. I bought the car with 34,000 miles. 5 years later, I now have 245,000 miles with absolutely no engine trouble. Oil is change ever 4,500 mile or whenever I get to it after that. SAE10W30. Treated my 1994 Cavilier L4 the same. Donated it to the Salvation Army after 280,000 miles. Engine ran great, no issues. Save your money and buy beer. The key is to change the oil and filter frequently.

Engine ran great, no issues. Save your money and buy beer. The key is to change the oil and filter frequently.

Yup. When I was poor(er), I always ran that Exxon Superflo (.98/qt at AutoZone), but changer every 3000 or so...never caused any problems...

I will say I am a fan of Slick 50, $14 every 50,000 miles is well worth the longevity and cooler operation I can document...

The best oil is not oil. Polyaphaolefin synthetic is the better lubricant. Mineral based multi-graded oil has inherent weaknesses. Then again, I've been biased by engine and equipment teardowns after long-duration use of synthetics, and will never go back if I don't have to.

Thanks for the info. I read somewhere to avoid FRAM oil filters. What do you think about that?

Thanks for the info. I read somewhere to avoid FRAM oil filters. What do you think about that?

Honestly,

I think it really doesn't matter but I am no expert. If you keep the car well maintained and change all of the fluids, hoses, belts, filters, tires and keep it relatively clean you will be fine no matter what you use. I used to run Valvoline in everything. I switched to Mobil 1 to spend more money. I can't tell any difference.

This may sound dumb but I would recommend buying the proper weight of oil and if you like the color of the bottle and the filter, use it. Just keep the maintenance up.

Corndog

Honestly,

I think it really doesn't matter but I am no expert. If you keep the car well maintained and change all of the fluids, hoses, belts, filters, tires and keep it relatively clean you will be fine no matter what you use. I used to run Valvoline in everything. I switched to Mobil 1 to spend more money. I can't tell any difference.

This may sound dumb but I would recommend buying the proper weight of oil and if you like the color of the bottle and the filter, use it. Just keep the maintenance up.

Corndog
LOL!:lol: That's funny. I have used fram oil filters ever since I started changing my own oil, with no problems. I don't remember what thread I read that in but it still makes you wonder. :uhoh:

LOL!:lol: That's funny. I have used fram oil filters ever since I started changing my own oil, with no problems. I don't remember what thread I read that in but it still makes you wonder. :uhoh:

There is an issue with durability on FRAM oil filters, that is really a non-issue if they are changed regularly, and not subjected to unusual stresses and prolonged service life...it has to do with a resin inpregnated cardboard disc that CAN fail and cause either compromised filtering capability or flow impediment...big "could" here, because as it has been documented, it is extremely rare, and severe neglect/long service intervals were the actual root cause.

There are large differences in how filters are constructed, some are so overbuilt, it's kinda pointless for normal service. Just depends on how high you like the bar set...if you are a regular driver, who does things on schedule, it's hard to go wrong with any known brand...

read the like on oil ilters i posted, it will give some reasons frams suck total ass, and why an ac-delco is a much better choice, and about the same price

read the like on oil ilters i posted, it will give some reasons frams suck total ass, and why an ac-delco is a much better choice, and about the same price
I think I've found what you are talking about. Is this it?... "The rubber anti-drainback valve seals the rough metal backplate to the cardboard end cap and easily leaks, causing dirty oil to drain back into the pan. If you have a noisy valve train at startup, this filter is likely the cause. The bypass valves are plastic and are sometimes not molded correctly, which allows them to leak. The backplate has smaller and fewer oil inlet holes, which may restrict flow." I can see why you (tblake) say they suck. However, I would agree with jeffcoslacker, in that the cause for this was probably neglect.

The drainback valve is not a problem on most Chevy engines, since very few of them mount the filters upside-down. The paper end for the filter support is a concern, and the thin canisters are suspect. As someone said, other filters are "overbuilt", but if they are almost the same price, why risk it? A $4 filter, or a $2,500 engine? It's your choice.

FWIW, I get my AC/Delco and Wix filters for $3.49, whether they are PF47s, PF25s, PF52s, PF1218s, PF47s, or PF46s (for the trucks). Frams are about a whole 20¢ cheaper. I use Mobil 1, so saving 20¢ on a filter is hardly justifyable. I can still do a 5-quart oil change for under $26 ($22 for oil, $3.49 filter).

The drainback valve is not a problem on most Chevy engines, since very few of them mount the filters upside-down. The paper end for the filter support is a concern, and the thin canisters are suspect. As someone said, other filters are "overbuilt", but if they are almost the same price, why risk it? A $4 filter, or a $2,500 engine? It's your choice.

FWIW, I get my AC/Delco and Wix filters for $3.49, whether they are PF47s, PF25s, PF52s, PF1218s, PF47s, or PF46s (for the trucks). Frams are about a whole 20¢ cheaper. I use Mobil 1, so saving 20¢ on a filter is hardly justifyable. I can still do a 5-quart oil change for under $26 ($22 for oil, $3.49 filter).

I do usually use the AC/Delco filter...

Hey, here's something we haven't brought up...how many prime your filter before putting it on?

I always have, just seems right. makes that oil light go out instantly on start up, with no wait time and no rattle while it builds pressure...even the 45 degree mount like the 3.1 can be filled pretty good before installing....

Another benefit...I got everybody in the shop doing it also, and it save a motor once...one of the guys had been on the phone and forgot he hadn't filled the car back up with oil after changing it, I looked over just as he hit the starter and saw the unopened bottles of oil on his bench and ran over to his bay and shut it off...never made a sound, thankfully, was still pumping that shot through the mains as I shut it off....

I do usually use the AC/Delco filter...

Hey, here's something we haven't brought up...how many prime your filter before putting it on?

I always have, just seems right. makes that oil light go out instantly on start up, with no wait time and no rattle while it builds pressure...even the 45 degree mount like the 3.1 can be filled pretty good before installing....

Another benefit...I got everybody in the shop doing it also, and it save a motor once...one of the guys had been on the phone and forgot he hadn't filled the car back up with oil after changing it, I looked over just as he hit the starter and saw the unopened bottles of oil on his bench and ran over to his bay and shut it off...never made a sound, thankfully, was still pumping that shot through the mains as I shut it off....

I have been priming oil filters for years. I do it on all of them. I owned a Ford once and it was at an angle. You could always get some in there before spining it on.


Corndog

I have been priming oil filters for years. I do it on all of them. I owned a Ford once and it was at an angle. You could always get some in there before spining it on.


Corndog

I like the old V8 chevys where it hung straight down...could get almost a whole quart in before spinning it on...

I do usually use the AC/Delco filter...

Hey, here's something we haven't brought up...how many prime your filter before putting it on?....

What does it mean to prime it? Does it mean putting some oil in the filter before "installing" it or is there more to it than that?

What does it mean to prime it? Does it mean putting some oil in the filter before "installing" it or is there more to it than that?

Yeah, that's all. You can get a lot in them, just have to fill it, wait for it to work in, fill, wait, etc...

Would you still use the same amout of oil? I think the luminators use 4.5 quarts.

Would you still use the same amout of oil? I think the luminators use 4.5 quarts.

Yes. You can get about 1/4 quart in them by filling them, they actually hold 1/2 quart, but that's after being driven in under pressure and saturating the filter media. Some will drool out as you spin it on if you get it real full, because of the angle...that's ok, because you have the extra 1/2 quart after you're done anyway...

Yes. You can get about 1/4 quart in them by filling them, they actually hold 1/2 quart, but that's after being driven in under pressure and saturating the filter media. Some will drool out as you spin it on if you get it real full, because of the angle...that's ok, because you have the extra 1/2 quart after you're done anyway...

Woo Hoo:naughty: If you save the 1/2 quart left after each oil change, that means that after nine oil changes, your tenth would be free:) ...gotta save $$$ whenever possible.