99 Surb PassLock
Steve Farmer
08-18-2006, 01:03 PM
Is there any way to totally disable the PassLock system? If I just cut the yellow data wire to the PassLock module while the engine is running, will the engine start the next time.I have seen PassLock By-Pass kits sold on the internet but it seems they have to be used with a remote stater kit which I don't necessarily want. Any tech help would be appreciated.
69hdflh
10-28-2006, 08:35 AM
I also would like an answer to that. Been trying to get around it.
ponchonutty
10-29-2006, 08:11 PM
Yep, you sure can. What you need to do is this....
Find your PK2 wires which is the yellow (resistance) and usually a black or orange black. Both should be small 20 or 22ga. wire. Once you've found those you'll cut the yellow wire and slice some insulation off the black wire. Don't start it but turn the ignition on and put the car in gear then crank the starter. The car won't crank but the ignition will then send out the code. Put a meter on the yellow wire GOING TO THE IGNITION and the other end on the black reference wire.
You should get some number anywhere from 800ohms all the way up to 80,000ohms. Usually it'll be around 6000 to 20000. Once you get that number, go to radio shack and buy resistor(s) that'll come as close as you can to that number. Once you have that, connect the resistor to the yellow wire going AWAY from the ignition and the other end to the reference wire. Then test it.
If it fails to start you can try the "change ignition module" programming mode which I've stated on here before. You can do a search and look it up. It's the same thing mechanics use when replacing the ignition switch. Basically you just turn the ignition on for 10 minutes, turn it off, then do it again then start it.
By design, these GM PK2 systems were made to compensate for changes over time. That's great but the problem is when the magnets in the switch fail too quickly then the BCM shuts everything down. Using the resistor method fixes it perminately.
Find your PK2 wires which is the yellow (resistance) and usually a black or orange black. Both should be small 20 or 22ga. wire. Once you've found those you'll cut the yellow wire and slice some insulation off the black wire. Don't start it but turn the ignition on and put the car in gear then crank the starter. The car won't crank but the ignition will then send out the code. Put a meter on the yellow wire GOING TO THE IGNITION and the other end on the black reference wire.
You should get some number anywhere from 800ohms all the way up to 80,000ohms. Usually it'll be around 6000 to 20000. Once you get that number, go to radio shack and buy resistor(s) that'll come as close as you can to that number. Once you have that, connect the resistor to the yellow wire going AWAY from the ignition and the other end to the reference wire. Then test it.
If it fails to start you can try the "change ignition module" programming mode which I've stated on here before. You can do a search and look it up. It's the same thing mechanics use when replacing the ignition switch. Basically you just turn the ignition on for 10 minutes, turn it off, then do it again then start it.
By design, these GM PK2 systems were made to compensate for changes over time. That's great but the problem is when the magnets in the switch fail too quickly then the BCM shuts everything down. Using the resistor method fixes it perminately.
Steve Farmer
10-30-2006, 07:54 AM
After much research and comments from others on the forum, I just cut the yellow wire while the engine was running and taped the 2 ends. It works great. I realize a couple of things will happpen. One, the "security" dash light will stay lit continually and two, if I ever have to disconnect a battery cable, I"ll have to reconnect the yellow wire to start the engine. The resistor method discussed here will also work, as well as the installation of a "contact switch" method as discussed in other forum posts.This is one aggrevating problem to which GM should be ashamed .
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