Transmission problem

I normally participate in the Montana forum, but I've got a Grand Am question today...

My sixteen-year-old niece drives a Grand Am...I'm guessing it's probably a '98 ish.

Last night, she was leaving our house and had to sit in the driveway for twenty minutes letting her car warm up before the transmission would work. I stood out there and watched as she would put it into reverse, rev the engine, and the car would barely move. Finally, after about twenty minutes she was able to go.

Her Mom and Dad have no money and someone gave her this car. I really don't want my niece out on the streets in this car like this.

I know a really good transmission guy that can repair this, but I want some idea of what I'm getting into. If the transmission is shot, I really can't afford to replace it for her. However, if we are talking a solenoid that's easily replaceable or something, the guy I know is pretty reasonable.

I know I haven't given you a lot to go on, but transmissions are like brain surgery to me. I can fix a computer. I don't touch transmissions.

Does this sound like a relatively inexpensive repair? Is it possibly something I could do myself for her? I think it would be really cool to steal her car away from school one day and bring it back all fixed up!

Thanks!

Sounds like it just might be low on fluid.....
Has anyone checked that?

I'd probly ask your neice Not to rev the engine when its not going, this will only further damage the trans.

I too hate working on trnays. But sometimes you get lucky and its something easily fixed.
Then other times, your better off letting a pro work on it.

Find out what year/engine/ auto/manual etc.

The car is a 1996 Grand Am 4 cyl with automatic transmission.

I'll see if someone has checked the transmission fluid, but I would have to think that someone would have thought of that! Maybe not, though. Stranger things have happened.

I'm getting this third-hand, but my wife tells me that a mechanic-friend told my sister-in-law (niece's mom) that "a switch needed to be replaced." Although that doesn't sound right to me, I'm too uninformed to make a good judgment.

The whole idea that it just has to warm up to start working is what confuses me. I don't think I've ever heard of that.

Anybody have transmission experience?

I dont even know All the parts thats in thier.

Wish I did !
It could just be a valve body issue which on some it can be removed and worked on with out removing the whole thing.
Thats what cost so much is the time in removal and installation.

Looks like they might need to head to the trans repair shop.
I'd have them check for trouble codes first off, It will show if anythings been loged.

Good Luck

The trans might have been neglected and might just need a flush (TransTune), filter, and new fluid. I have found that this relieves alot of problems in transmissions that I have dealt with. It smooths out the shifting alot too.

OK, here's some additional info. The transmission was recently serviced (flush, fill, filter). I checked today and it is right up to the line with fluid (warm in park).

In another thread, "irocgirl" posted this question:
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I am having some problems with my 1995 gramd am SE. It has a 3.1 and its an automatic. Sometimes when I shift my car into drive or reverse, it wont go. But, if i let it warm up for a while first, then it usually will shift in. We have changed the tranny fluid and now it still is looking good. It also runs roughly some times and the RPM's sometimes will surge. We replaced the EGR, but it didnt help. Wondering if the tranny problem is caused by the ECM???
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I talked to my sister-in-law, and she told me that this exactly describes the way my niece's car is acting. She also said that it got WORSE after the transmission was serviced. Hmmm.

In reply to the above question, "Knifeblade 03" answered:
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If, IF, IF the ECM is the hassle, it should have sent a code that your dealer or a shop can read.

Have you checked the vacuum modulator? A bad modulator will show several of the symptoms you describe. However, the surge and rough idle, is an engine, not tranny problem.

Vac. modulator is found on the transaxle, has a hose running to it, check for tight connects, and leaks in the hose itself.
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Here's what I know:

- The car IS sending a code. The Check Engine light is on. I didn't have time to take it to AutoZone to get the code today. As soon as I can, I will do that and post it here.

- Does anyone know where the vacuum modulator is at on the transmission? I'd like to check that. Does anyone else concur that this could be the problem?

- The transmission runs GREAT after it warms up.

- I doubt it is related, but my sister-in-law says that the fuse to the fuel injectors blows once in a while.

- When the car is cold and idling, and you put it into reverse, it will begin to creep backwards just like normal. However, when you give it gas, it seems to actually go into neutral. It does not whine or squeel or anything...the engine just revs and the car sits still.

- Like I said before, my sister-in-law says that the problem got WORSE after the fluid and filter were changed.

I'm leaning toward some kind of vacuum problem myself, since everything works so well when it is warm.

Well For starters the flush could hav messed it up.

The flush is under pressure and washes away good friction material. Then can stick that material where it isnt good, up in the Valve body. :nono:

Might try some seafoam, sometimes a stuck vavle body will make the trans mess up.
If that doesnt help, tell them to get ahold of the jokers that flushed it, and complain !

Just a few tips from my ole tranny days. Not shifting or not going into gear when cold was known as --Morning Sicknes-- The rubber seals and o-rings would'nt or can't hold the oil pressure until they warm up and become pliable. Its worse when its colder. Valve boby problems will also give u probs of the same nature just a little friction plate dust in there will cause a valve to not slide properly. Modulators-Vacuum-tell the car when to shift-there is a spring and a diaphragm in there that on some can be adjusted--some are preset and have no adjustment--quick look is to take the vacuum line off the modulator if tranny oil come outa drop or 2 its bad. White smoke coming out ur pipe is a dead giveaway since thats how tranny fluid burns--ur taken it up into the motor usually in extreme cases where theMOD has just blown up and ur suckin fluid into ur engine Best bet is to take it to a few and I mean more than 1 and have them road test the car and give u their explanation. You'd be surprized how many different answers you'll get from the pro's. If it has high miles on it then your looking at some or all of the above. Most places will always try to sell u a fix or rebuilt unit. A FIX if it gets involed becomes a sort of a la carte deal and ends up costing more than a new unit.---Got more questions just ask--Got a friend who i started with doin trannys that still works at AAMCO down the street--Can't get any deals but good info is free-----Chris

I normally participate in the Montana forum, but I've got a Grand Am question today...

My sixteen-year-old niece drives a Grand Am...I'm guessing it's probably a '98 ish.

Last night, she was leaving our house and had to sit in the driveway for twenty minutes letting her car warm up before the transmission would work. I stood out there and watched as she would put it into reverse, rev the engine, and the car would barely move. Finally, after about twenty minutes she was able to go.

Her Mom and Dad have no money and someone gave her this car. I really don't want my niece out on the streets in this car like this.

I know a really good transmission guy that can repair this, but I want some idea of what I'm getting into. If the transmission is shot, I really can't afford to replace it for her. However, if we are talking a solenoid that's easily replaceable or something, the guy I know is pretty reasonable.

I know I haven't given you a lot to go on, but transmissions are like brain surgery to me. I can fix a computer. I don't touch transmissions.

Does this sound like a relatively inexpensive repair? Is it possibly something I could do myself for her? I think it would be really cool to steal her car away from school one day and bring it back all fixed up!

Thanks!


What you have described is morning sickness.
If transmission fails to go into reverse or forward when cold it is leaking pressure inside the transmission.
Just no fordward could be electrical but no reverse is always internal.
The transmission flush is the worst thing you can do on a weak transmissin.
If the transmission filter has not been replaced replace it.
May help or may not but will not hurt it.

The only real fix for is a transmission rebuild or replace.

Make sure you are checking fluid level with transmission good and hot and with engine running in park.

Also there is a additive that may help or may not but worth a try.
Not a real fix but may help get a few more miles out of it.
It is lucas transmission additive.
You can find it at most parts places.
But do not use anything else.
Remember additives is not a fix just a aid to help it along for a while.
And never use additives in a good transmission or engine.
Let us know how it goes.
Good Luck MT

I got my niece's car yesterday and started working on it.

I took it to Autozone, and it is showing two codes:

P0420 - Catalyst system efficiency for Bank 1 is below threshold for the current engine operating conditions.

P0325 - A malfunction exists in the electrical circuit for Knock Sensor 1.

Something new to figure out after I get the transmission working. Maybe I should make another post.

While checking out the vacuum modulator, I am 90% sure that a check valve at the modulator was installed backwards. I could suck TOWARD the modulator, but now AWAY. Since the vacuum goes TOWARD the manifold, I'm pretty sure that was backwards.

The car sat for about five hours on ramps in my garage, and backed off and uphill up my driveway when I left. I'll get the full story from my brother- and sister-in-law today.

I also found a new problem that my niece didn't tell anyone about. After the car has been sitting for several days, the rear brakes lock up for the first 2-3 stops. When I say lock up, I mean they BARK on a light stop. Anyone know what might be causing this? Maybe that should be a THIRD post!

Keep those cards and letters coming...anything I can do to make this run better makes me look like Uncle Hero!

I got my niece's car yesterday and started working on it.

I took it to Autozone, and it is showing two codes:

P0420 - Catalyst system efficiency for Bank 1 is below threshold for the current engine operating conditions.

P0325 - A malfunction exists in the electrical circuit for Knock Sensor 1.

Something new to figure out after I get the transmission working. Maybe I should make another post.

While checking out the vacuum modulator, I am 90% sure that a check valve at the modulator was installed backwards. I could suck TOWARD the modulator, but now AWAY. Since the vacuum goes TOWARD the manifold, I'm pretty sure that was backwards.

The car sat for about five hours on ramps in my garage, and backed off and uphill up my driveway when I left. I'll get the full story from my brother- and sister-in-law today.

I also found a new problem that my niece didn't tell anyone about. After the car has been sitting for several days, the rear brakes lock up for the first 2-3 stops. When I say lock up, I mean they BARK on a light stop. Anyone know what might be causing this? Maybe that should be a THIRD post!

Keep those cards and letters coming...anything I can do to make this run better makes me look like Uncle Hero!


It does sound like you may have several problems.
On the transmission check/replace the transmission filter first.
And look in the bottom of transmission pan for any extra metal or clutch plates material.
And make sure it is full of fluid after it is hot engine running in park.
On the modulator not many transmission have it any more.
But ones that do should not have a checkvalve in vacume line to it.
Run the vacume direct to it and make sure it is getting full engine vacume and no fluid in vacume line.
What is the year and engine and 3 or 4 speed transmission?
On the 420 code go for a good tune up first thing.
On brakes check rear wheel cylinders for leakage and inspect rear shoes and adjustment.

OK, so far I am a candidate for Uncle of the Year award. This morning, the car started moving right away after startup. The check valve was definitely installed backward. Now, the vacuum modulator is actually doing whatever vacuum modulators are supposed to do.

Next, I think I'll take a look at the brakes. The engine is running ok for now, and I think the brakes seem like a scarier issue.

I just wanted to give another update on this for the record in case anybody does a search someday.

The check valve on the vacuum modulator was definitely causing the problem with the car refusing to move when cold.

Regarding the rear brake lockup, I tore into the rear brakes today, and it looks like the passenger side wheel cylinder was leaking. I rebuilt it and bled the lines. The driver's side was a different story. Just very rusty. No brake dust, just rust dust. It looks like they haven't really been doing much of anything. Since the cylinder rebuild kit was $4, and I already had new shoes and drums, I completely rebuilt and greased up that side, too. I also bled the line.

So, everything in the rear is completely new for her. Hopefully she won't be hitting her head on the windshield the first few times she stops in the morning.

Maybe someday I'll get spunky and start tracking down those codes I talked about earlier. At least I've tackled the major safety issues.

I just wanted to give another update on this for the record in case anybody does a search someday.

The check valve on the vacuum modulator was definitely causing the problem with the car refusing to move when cold.

Regarding the rear brake lockup, I tore into the rear brakes today, and it looks like the passenger side wheel cylinder was leaking. I rebuilt it and bled the lines. The driver's side was a different story. Just very rusty. No brake dust, just rust dust. It looks like they haven't really been doing much of anything. Since the cylinder rebuild kit was $4, and I already had new shoes and drums, I completely rebuilt and greased up that side, too. I also bled the line.

So, everything in the rear is completely new for her. Hopefully she won't be hitting her head on the windshield the first few times she stops in the morning.

Maybe someday I'll get spunky and start tracking down those codes I talked about earlier. At least I've tackled the major safety issues.

Glad to hear you got the trans & brakes taken care of.
Those two are pretty important :grinyes:

It is always a good idea to replace/rebuild wheel cylinders in pairs, front or back, that'll workout great :bigthumb: