OEM vs. Autozone

I was thinking about it today and realized I needed a new waterpump. I got to looking and an OEM one costs like 120 dollars whereas the Autozone ones cost 40 somethin... Do you guys think the Autozone one would be just as good as an OEM one or should I only buy OEM accessories? The same thing goes with the starters, OEM is 170ish while Autozones is 120...

personally when it comes to accessories that require a lot of time and labor to replace I always go OEM, (timing belts, water pumps, oil pumps, etc.) If it's something that is easily replacable then the vatozone stuff should be fine. After all, if it breaks, then it's easy to replace and it will probably still be under warranty.

I look at it this way: If it's something really important to the life of your car and your not sure of the quality of non-OEM, go OEM. Something like a blown oil pump could be devastating to your car, you would hate to know you only bought the shitty Autozone one to save a few $$. If it's something that if it breaks or screws up your entire car won't be destroyed, then give it a try.

It also come down the the quality of the part and who makes it. Many mechanics stand by NAPA parts for their quality and warranty, even if they cost a little more then AutoZone or Checker.

I've noticed that alot of parts from napa or stores like that are the actual oe parts and if not they have a better warrenty and are usually just as good

get an autozone water pump their guaranteed for life.

I agree with crunchy. And Brian, with all the money you're investing in the motor, why not go OEM. What if, just what if that Advance (or wherever you get it) waterpump goes to shit and your overheat the shit out of your motor. You'll be kicking yourself for not spending the extra $80 for an OEM one. Parts stores do have good products, but it's just a mental thing with me that the important parts need to be OEM.

Right, I've been leaning towards OEM on that for a while now here... I'm still debating the thermostat though. I can get a 160 thermostat at autozone. Think there would be any problems with running such a cold thermostat? Stock is 190 I do believe...

if you dont plan on driving it in the winter or cold weather I wouldnt even put one in but if you do I'd go 160

I'm not gonna drive it in the winter unless I have to... Why would that matter in this decision? lol

b/c No thermostat in the winter means no warm air. or it takes for ever for it to heat up to get the warm air.

Oh my bad, I misread Scotts post completely. lol

If it's a newer car with an ECM/PCM, you'd better not go any lower than a 180. If the engine never reaches a set temp, it will stay in open loop and get horrible milage, and wear the engine out faster. Even the oil needs to be at a certain temp. before it fully protects your engine...Which is why I never hotrod until it's fully warmed up...

As far as vatozone 'n' Ho-reilly, If it's a pump with stamped steel anywhere on it, turn around and walk out. I bought a pump at autozone for my car that had a stamped steel impeller. It was a piece of crap. I took it back and got one with a cast impeller. It al has to do with the quality, not so much as where you spend your money..

What do you mean it'll stay in open loop?

Open loop is when the ECM is running the engine on a pre-programmed fuel output set by the factory, kinda like a limp mode..sort of. Once the oxygen sensors heat up to operating temp, and other sensors like the coolant temp sensor senses the coolant is warm enough. When this happens, the ECM uses the signal from the O2's to regulate fuel output, so the combustion process is more accurate.

Well if thats the case then why would they even make a 160 thermostat for this car?... It just doesn't make sense.

The only reason that 160 degree t-stats are available is because too many folks believe colder must be better and re-engineer away from what every manufacture has determined is optimum operating temp. One t-stat manufacture began production and people bought them, the others followed so they wouldn't loose their sales market to competitors. T-stats are a designed restrictor that improves cooling efficeintcy especially at higher RPM. Engines are heaters, cooling systems are coolers. The greater the HP the more heat is generated. If an engine produces more heat than its respective cooling system is capable of taking away, it will get hotter and hotter regardless of t-stat choices. The only sense that lower temp t-stats make is sales dollars to the manufacture. Each t-stat manufacture will tell you that. They would rather sell you the most efficeint t-stat which is with few exceptions 192-195 degree.