Paint Oxidation
jcase350
08-15-2006, 05:19 PM
I have a Beautiful 1990 Iroc. The only bad thing about it is, it is badly oxidized on the roof. Does anyone have any tips on how to make the paint come back to life? Thanks
CamaroRS92
08-15-2006, 07:33 PM
4 step process and it will look like new again
1) wash the car to remove any grit and dirt.
2) Next use 3M finess it rubbing compound and machine rub until the oxidation has been cut off.
3)Then use either Black Magic or Liquid Ebony whirl remover (by machine) to remove the haze from the compound and to remove any buffer swirls.
4) Wash the car thoroughly and then rewax with a Carnauba Paste Wax to seal it
A word of warning - if you dont know what you are doing with a buffer (espescially an electric one) you will burn thru the paint or burn the edges .
You have to keep the pad wet and keep it moving
1) wash the car to remove any grit and dirt.
2) Next use 3M finess it rubbing compound and machine rub until the oxidation has been cut off.
3)Then use either Black Magic or Liquid Ebony whirl remover (by machine) to remove the haze from the compound and to remove any buffer swirls.
4) Wash the car thoroughly and then rewax with a Carnauba Paste Wax to seal it
A word of warning - if you dont know what you are doing with a buffer (espescially an electric one) you will burn thru the paint or burn the edges .
You have to keep the pad wet and keep it moving
ikeyballz
08-15-2006, 10:07 PM
if you want to be careful, use your hands to do the rubbing compound, make sure you do everything evenly tho, or else you will be able to see the marks. do that part slowest. if anything, use rubbing compound really lightly and then use polishing compound, since its a little less abrasive
jcase350
08-16-2006, 05:58 PM
When you are using the electric buffer, do you always keep the pad wet or just when you are using the whirl remover?
CamaroRS92
08-16-2006, 07:02 PM
The reference to the electric buffer is because of the fact that they have excessive RPM and it is much more difficult to control the proper speed .
A lot of electric "buffers" are actually a grinder with a buffing pad applied to them. Grinders turn way too fast to buff. You want to keep the speed down to around 1200 RPM or less. High Speeds will generate heat super fast and that where you can mess up. Air buffers are the best because they have near infinate speed control.
As for keeping the pad "wet" i should have been more specific to say while doing your compound cutting , keep plenty of compound on the area until you have the oxidation removed then lighten the pressure to burnish off to a clean -dry surface and keep moving , dont just hold the buffer in one place with a dry pad to keep from building a lot of heat.
Same goes for the whirl remover.
A lot of electric "buffers" are actually a grinder with a buffing pad applied to them. Grinders turn way too fast to buff. You want to keep the speed down to around 1200 RPM or less. High Speeds will generate heat super fast and that where you can mess up. Air buffers are the best because they have near infinate speed control.
As for keeping the pad "wet" i should have been more specific to say while doing your compound cutting , keep plenty of compound on the area until you have the oxidation removed then lighten the pressure to burnish off to a clean -dry surface and keep moving , dont just hold the buffer in one place with a dry pad to keep from building a lot of heat.
Same goes for the whirl remover.
jcase350
08-17-2006, 07:50 AM
Appreciate the info. I will try it and let you guys know how it turns out. Thanks for the help.
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