Need Help (forget Plug Ecs And Come Out Two More Problem)

My 93 ES300 has been overheating the last one month. It has almost 120K on it.
No leaks. Did full engine coolant flush, thermostat & 2 rad cap replacement,
But forgot plug the connector of cooling temp sensor back to cooling temp sensor and driver around 5 miles and plug back. Then come out more problems. The A/C system not working anymore, so I check the MAGNETIC CLUTCH by Connect the positive (+) lead from the battery to the terminal on the magnetic clutch connector and the negative (–) lead to the body ground. I find compressor will work a few seconds then stop. When I start car and push A/C button and compressor will working but Freon did not pass through compressor so come out worm air. The A/C system already changes to 134a and EXPANSION VALVE also change too on June 2004. The A/C diagnostic code is 00.
Then Airbag light is come out after do magnetic clutch test. I check airbag code that show 22.
The overheat problem did not solve and come out two more problem.
The overheat problem –
I also check hydraulic fan by short OP1 & E1 in the diagnostics port and it run fast.
I check the condition of solenoid and cooling temp sensor by unplugs the connector at the cooling system ECU. The Cooling temp sensor is ok. The resistance of solenoid is 8.8 ohms at 88 degree F. I know that should be 7.6 to 8 ohm at 77 degrees F, but the temp around 83 – 95 degree F in south.

Did someone know what is wrong on A/C System, Airbag?
Did my solenoid is bad so come out overheat?
Please help me.

:banghead: :banghead: :banghead:
David

The factory manual says that the cooling fan temp. sensor should have 1.48-1.58kohm at 80 C (176 F). Did yours check out like this?

The factory manual says that the cooling fan temp. sensor should have 1.48-1.58kohm at 80 C (176 F). Did yours check out like this?

Yes, it is 1.5kohm at 80 C and it is brand new from dealer. :frown:

The A/C system not working anymore, so I check the MAGNETIC CLUTCH by Connect the positive (+) lead from the battery to the terminal on the magnetic clutch connector and the negative (–) lead to the body ground. I find compressor will work a few seconds then stop. When I start car and push A/C button and compressor will working but Freon did not pass through compressor so come out worm air. The A/C system already changes to 134a and EXPANSION VALVE also change too on June 2004. The A/C diagnostic code is 00.
Code 00 is normal. There is no problem.
The clutch may have burned out. (Never seen that one happen), or the compressor may have been destroyed by running it while it was low on freon/the thing was improperly converted to r134a.
Keep in mind that the oil for the compressor is contained within the gas you put in it.
Then Airbag light is come out after do magnetic clutch test. I check airbag code that show 22.
Are you sure that's for the airbag, or for the A/C system? If it's for the A/C system it's:
 All conditions below are detected for 3 secs. or more.
(a) Engine rpm: 450 rpm or more.
(b) Ratio between engine and compressor rpm diviates 20% or more in comparison to normal operation.
Check the drive belt tension, the compressor lock sensor & its wiring, and the magnetic clutch.

If you really mean it's for the airbag, then:
WARNING LIGHT CHECK
Check the airbag warning light. If the light remains on, a malfunction is stored in the center airbag sensor assembly, so proceed to step. If the airbag warning light is not on, a malfunction has occurred in the airbag warning light circuit, so perform troubleshooting for code 22. HINT: Code 22 is recorded when a malfunction occurs in the airbag warning light system. If an open malfunction occurs in the airbag warning light system, the airbag warning light does not light up, so that until the malfunction is repaired, the diagnostic trouble codes (including code 22) cannot be confirmed.

I.E... The light burned out, or the wiring to the light is dead.



I also check hydraulic fan by short OP1 & E1 in the diagnostics port and it run fast.
I check the condition of solenoid and cooling temp sensor by unplugs the connector at the cooling system ECU. The Cooling temp sensor is ok. The resistance of solenoid is 8.8 ohms at 88 degree F. I know that should be 7.6 to 8 ohm at 77 degrees F, but the temp around 83 – 95 degree F in south.
The sensor is fine.
:banghead: :banghead: :banghead:
David
You blew the head gaskets out of the car & warped the heads by continuing to drive it around while it overheats. Do a compression / leakdown check to see.
If you're just the luckyest person on Earth... The radiator is clogged from not changing the coolant often enough & it hasn't blown up it.

What is rpm of hydraulic fan will run when engine is hot.
Did you know what kind of speed the fan will run?
I find out the hydraulic fun run same speed when I drive around 20 mins.
I remember it will run high speed some time and change to low speed some time, but I am not very sure.
I already did lead down test once and find the air run out from valve that area.
When I change to #2 spark plug hole the air sound will come out on #2 spark plug hole and under of valve cover.
When I change to #3 spark plug hole then air sound on # spark plug hole too.
All lead down test is 0% ~ 10%.
I already put one carbon cleaner into gas tank. I will do lead down test again due to I find out the piston have a lot of carbon on it and I think the carbon build up the valve area so the valves can not complete close.

Thanks
Your answer help me a lot