94 Metro ignition switch

Previous owner had the key break off in the ignition so he took that as artistic license to totally hack the wiring harness to the ignition switch (to the point where the top half of it is gone). I have managed to remove all his "work":banghead: , pull the ignition switch and get the partial key out of the lock. Next on the list is to get a replacement harness from the switch down to the fuse block. My question is does anyone know if there is a spring in the part of the harness that plugs into the ignition switch to return the key from the start to the on position:screwy: ? With just the ignition switch in place the key turns fine but does not return from the start position to the run position, without a harness to compare to I don't know if I need to be looking for just a harness or a harness and a replacement switch.

You might try looking at a salvage yard and see if you can take a look at another car to compare to yours and see if there is a difference. Or just to get the parts you need to fix and or replace yours.

That was my general plan I was just hoping to get an idea if I needed to be looking for the wiring harness or the harness and the lock itself before I went to the wrecking yard. Metro's in the local salvage yards are getting picked over pretty hard especially with gas prices escalating.... My ultimate goal is to get it repaired and keep all the locks keyed the same.

there is a spring in the switch that tunr key back when you release it. to remove the lock if it needs it easiest way i have found is to cut slots in the 2 rivet looking heads holding lock in and unscrewing them with a screwdriver

Crvett69:
Cutting a slot in the top of the "tamper resistant bolts" and unscrewing them with a screwdriver is exactly the method I used to remove the lock assembly from the steering column and it worked quite well. I plan on reassembling it with "regular" bolts, after all how much of a theft deterent are those funky bolts anyway? What I was trying to determine ahead of time is if the return spring is in the ignition switch itself (cast metal portion) or in the the portion of the wiring harness that plugs into it.

its in the electrical part of the switch but if key part is stiff it won't return to '"run" position

Thats what I was hoping for as my key turns easily and I figured I'd lubricate the lock cylinder but I wanted to make sure the key wouldn't be stuck in the start position with the starter consequently grinding away on the ring gear (the poor car has enough other flaws created by the previous owner).

if you cant find electrical part of the switch, let me know i have a few i could pull

Awesome. I'll let you know how I fare the current plan is to search this weekend.

I found the electrical part of the ignition switch, got it home and plugged into the key portion which all appears to work well (the spring returns the key from the start to the on position). But now I have a new dilemna: there are two green wires going to a small detent type switch at the same end of the harness as the portion that plugs into the cast portion of the lock cylinder. Since I've never had the top portion of the harness; I have no idea what this switch is for or where it goes.... Can anybody help?

thats for the key in the ignition buzzer. it ataches to the lock part of the switch next to where key goes in

Thanks Crvett69, I'll take another look and see if I can figure how it is supposed to go. Have you replaced the tamper resistant bolts that hold the switch to the column? If so where did you locate replacements, I'm thinking a regular style bolt head would work just fine.

you have to use the old bolts or buy new ones from dealer. heads on different ones won't fit very well. what i usually do is just cut the slots in them with hacksaw then use screwdriver to screw them back in

A little late for this thread, but I had a problem with my ignition switch on my '93 Geo, so I took it to a local locksmith to have him fix. He let me watch him as he tore into removing the ignition switch. To remove the slotless bolts, he used a spring loaded punch with a pointed tip. He repeatedly "pinged" the punch on the side of the bolt at an angle and after just about a minute on each bolt, they came loose. The punch just requires you to push it with your hand until it "snaps". After he got them out, he did what was stated before and cut a slot in each one with a hacksaw so he could re-insert them with a screwdriver. A few weeks later I had a screw in my drivers side door that stripped out and I couldn't remove. I went to Home Depot and purchased one of these punches (about $10.00). Took me about a minute to loosen the screw and remove it. I highly recommend one of these punches as part of your tool kit. I have used it a few times since I purchased it - lawnmower, ATV, GMC Jimmy. Worth EVERY penny.