?'s on CV joint assembly replace
sl0d0wn
08-20-2002, 12:39 AM
Ok, i got the CV joint/axle assembly today from autozone. I am gonna put it in tommorow but have a few last second questions. I have a hayes manual and went thru the process, i understand all the steps but this one: (one of the last steps)
-Insert the stud of the lower controll arm balljoint into the steering knuckle and tighten the nut. Be sure to use a new cotter pin.
I think cotter pins are kinda like hair barretes but not sure. Does anyone know what size it will be?? Also does anyone know the size of the driveaxle nut?? I just want to have everything before i start. -thanks
Also kinda off topic from this post, would a intake for my si also work for a ZC?? I think it should but not sure -thanks
-Insert the stud of the lower controll arm balljoint into the steering knuckle and tighten the nut. Be sure to use a new cotter pin.
I think cotter pins are kinda like hair barretes but not sure. Does anyone know what size it will be?? Also does anyone know the size of the driveaxle nut?? I just want to have everything before i start. -thanks
Also kinda off topic from this post, would a intake for my si also work for a ZC?? I think it should but not sure -thanks
bobbyd
08-20-2002, 07:09 AM
should be able just to ue your old one i would think.
Bleebdat
08-20-2002, 10:18 AM
Yes cotter pins look like bobby pins, and at autozone they have assorted size boxes for like 2 bucks, just get one of those and it will last you a while and good luck on the axle.
88_SC_CRX_Si
08-20-2002, 10:04 PM
Mr. Helm says your suppose to re-place the "Castle Nuts". They are self locking, and are not very reliable when used again. over the long run... per say
However it's up to you...
However it's up to you...
sl0d0wn
08-20-2002, 10:13 PM
ok, got all the way up to loosening the castle nut. Well didnt budge and now it is completely stripped. In the process of stripping the castle nut, i was putting so much force into it it looked like the steering pieces were taking alot of strain, is that normal??? Also i saw u say the castle nuts are self locking, whats that??? was i supposed to do anything before attempting to take them off (besides removing the cotter pin). Also, what do i do now to remove a stripped nut that was already hard to get off when it wasnt stripped?? Everything went so smooth until this. Any replys are appreciated -thanks
BullShifter
08-21-2002, 12:55 AM
:bandit:
nice job!
Take it to some one that knows what there doing
nice job!
Take it to some one that knows what there doing
Bleebdat
08-21-2002, 01:01 AM
Sl0, you need to remember these cars are old, and most of the times havent had the best care. Lots of times when replacing things nut are siezed or rusted. Get a Propane torch and something like wd-40. Spray some lube on the parts you cant get loose, wait like 10 minutes then try and get it off again, if that still doesnt work hit it with the torch, holding on the seized part for at least 20 seconds. Then try to get it off again, if it doesnt work at that point, take it to a shop or just chop the part off and go get one from a junkyard or dealership. Also to get the pieces you stripped off use vise grips.
sl0d0wn
08-21-2002, 07:08 AM
Take it to some one that knows what there doing ??? yea, cuz i stripped a nut that was severely rusted and was probably already slightly stripped. Shut ur stupid mouth dude. U obviously have no clue what u are doing or else u would of made a reply like Bleebdat.
You should use tools for what they are designed for now i see this!!! u must have serious issues in ur life man. Why cant u be normal and make helpful comments instead of retarded "im cool" comments??? I honestly would like to see what ur gay ass looks like in person. Ur probably ugly as hell and cant get a bitch and all that sexual tension causes u to be like this.
You should use tools for what they are designed for now i see this!!! u must have serious issues in ur life man. Why cant u be normal and make helpful comments instead of retarded "im cool" comments??? I honestly would like to see what ur gay ass looks like in person. Ur probably ugly as hell and cant get a bitch and all that sexual tension causes u to be like this.
Bleebdat
08-21-2002, 09:45 AM
Sl0, dont get too bent up on what people say on these boards, take what you can use from it and forget everything else, I mean his name is Jackass.
BullShifter
08-21-2002, 03:42 PM
Just trying to help
well thats my reply
you asked for it
not me
:flipa:
well thats my reply
you asked for it
not me
:flipa:
Bleebdat
08-21-2002, 08:11 PM
Jackass maybe next time you could help him solve his problem instead of trying to irritate him.
sl0d0wn
08-21-2002, 11:18 PM
Ok, i had to work all day so i really couldnt do much (the 48 hour axel change LOL) anyway, the castle nut wouldnt budge so i said screw it and just unbolted stuff around it and got the axel off, the other castle nuts were a breeze to get off but that one wont move so i am just gonna leave it. Now, when putting the new axel into the tranny is there a certain way to do it?? cuz it slides in a little but then doesnt budge, i am gonna get a new spring clip tommorow (not sure if the remanned has a new one) and see if that helps. but should i just jam it in??? i was scared to put alot of pressure until i got some info from here, hopefully i will just slide that puppy in tommorow bolt everything back up and be set. -thanks
Bleebdat
08-21-2002, 11:30 PM
On the spring clip, Push it as far in the tranny as you can you might or might not hear a click, but if it is in correctly when you try to pull it out again it will have a lot of resistance.
FourthGenHatch
08-21-2002, 11:41 PM
Lemme ask you a question. When you have the axel out and the spindle nut off are you able to pull the hub off also?
Bleebdat
08-21-2002, 11:43 PM
Fourth: You have to take a few other things off, but the hub comes off very easy at that point.
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