Safc

whats up everybody...its been way to long...

anyways...anybody got the new SAFC Neo yet?

started thinkin about what i want to get next...and my car being automatic...sometimes it doesnt want to downshift and i cant afford to go all out and get an EMS....and seeing how they dont make dsm link for us N/A guys...i was like what else does everybody have...so i started lookin for a SAFC II and stumbled accross the new Neo...i have to say it looks badass and i want one...but i want to know how effective it is and just wanted to know if anyone has, or knows someone who has, the new one yet...is it worth 400ish bucks? or should i save 100 bucks and get an SAFC II?

heres the apexi link
http://www.apexi-usa.com/news_article.asp?id=15

does it do anything extra that the safc2 doesn't do?
It doesn't look like it --> so I would say not worth it and just get the original safc2

the display looks like it would be easier to read....not to mention it looks badass in color...and features are the same...but it also has the features of the AFC and the VAFC...also if i read right...the safcII has ab 8 point correction? where-as the new safc neo has 16

why do you think you even need one?

Yeah, I dont think you'll really need one NT style.

I don't see why he can't have one. David has one and had a good gain when he tuned his car. I thought about getting one before I decided to sell the RS. Just cause some of us aren't all turbo doesn't mean we can't get fine tuning devices.

I would say if you want it that bad, then get it. Otherwise the safc2 will work just fine.

Yeah. With little mods, the SAFC isn't worth it. The only thing you will see is your gas mileage go down. You've got some mods, but not enough. I got the controller because I knew I was going to rebuild at least the head. Also, the mods that I have now are suffient enough to help make a difference when tuned with the SAFC. In short, you need more mods for it to make a difference.

The new one does look nice. Just wait for the one after that to come out, so it drops the price of this one. :wink:

be ready daivd :-P i orderd my data logger yesterday and im ordering my s-afc next friday so be ready to be questiond to death lol

well...ok so here's my problem

being that my car is NA AT...its slow....thats all there is to it...but since my basic mods...the car wont downshift when i get on it....let me rephrase that...it'll downshift...but sometimes when im driving around 50mph and get on it...it will only drop down one gear and my rpms will still be low...say around 3500...but it feels like the car needs to drop one more gear...but the computer wont let it...so i figured...bigger intake = burns more gas = bigger exhaust to get rid of...but the transmission is still slower than hell....maybe id be better off with a high stall torque converter? i dont know alot about them...how complicated are they to install? any other modifications i could make to try and compensate/fix the problem?

The SAFC will not fix your downshifting problem. Yeah, you can tune it for more gas at specific rpms, but with an auto it's not going to help it out. It'll downshift, dump the extra fuel in, and sit there burning it with no gains. If you lighten up the car (weight reduction, pulleys...) it'll help out a lot. Also, upgrading the ignition will also help. Better spark plus better transporting of power to the plugs (plugs, coil pack, wires) will help too. And last but not least, cams designed for a certain power range will help too. However, you will need to upgrade the whole head with springs, lifters, valves... and so on.

Also, if you're cruising at 50 and it downshifts to 3500, that's pretty good. If it downshifted once more down (to 2nd gear) you'd be redlining. Then, the car would sit there and try to shift to 3rd again, and you would lose more time between that. I don't think there's anything you can do to get it to downshift lower. I don't think you want to.

You can manually downshift it. On the shifter it is P-R-N-D-2-1. Just put it into 2...and voila. It works for me when somebody is goin like 50 down the highway and I want to pass. Just make sure that after you put it back into D.

You shouldn't have to though. When I'm doin 50 and go WOT, it downshifts to 2nd and I still have about 2k worth of rpm to go through before it redlines and shifts to 3rd.

Manually downshifting on at AT at those speeds is hard on the seals inside the tranny. I wouldn't do that unless you really need to.

yea there is a difference between need and want, you dont need to pass that guy but you want to and you want your car to sound mean by going to those high rpms so you can feel it take off. I had a grand prix with a six cylinder and I always liked to hit passing gear. It was my first car, the tranny only lasted 4 months lol but then again its a GM product. but if your looking for more power like one of these guys said all the little things you can do add up. good luck

you better get the safc while you can cause they announced they are going to discontinue that model and then you will have to pay the extra for the new neo

From what I have read so far the new GM MAFT 3 is a much better tuning tool then the new Neo...

Manually downshifting on at AT at those speeds is hard on the seals inside the tranny. I wouldn't do that unless you really need to.

Does it matter if I do it manually or if the car does it when I go WOT? Either way it's going into that gear, the timing of when exactly it does it is just different. I've been doing it off and on for awhile, and my tranny still shifts very smooth and have never had any problems with it.

It's not whether it goes into that gear or not, it's when and how. Downshift manually and then stomp on it. Then put it back in OD and then go WOT and let the tranny do the work. The shifts definitely feel different.