Ground to trigger stutterbox? Wiring help?

Ok, well to make this short I'm planning on setting up a different kind of stutterbox (alot cheaper then dsmlink or msd dis-2). Which is a unit made by Bee*R as a rev limiter and stutter box. And the stutterbox is activated by a ground.

So... on the clutch there is a button which is used for cruise control. From what I have found, it has a positive charge of 12v when depressed (clutch out). But once pressed (clutch engagged) it loses this 12v current. Using a relay or something, is there anyway that once the 12v current is cut, it activates a trigger ground for my stutterbox?

The manuel on line tells you to use the e-brake ground... But I really dont want to do that with a stutterbox.

Please help me out, since I really dont know shit when it comes to relays..

http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/1778/revtq4.jpg


Edit: Shit, now that I think of it, I'm not sure how the current on the cruise control switch on the clutch works... Is it 12v when clutch is engaged or when its dissengaged?

Use a switch so you dont have to have it on all the time... Its much easier and if you decide to shift WOT its going to try to set RPMs at the stutter box limit basically killing the power to the motor if you are over the RPMs of the stutter box.

If I got the clutch trigger to actually work, I was planning on running a switch between the relay and ground. But yeah, if someone cant help me out on this relay trigger thing, I guess I'm gonna have to run only a switch without the clutch.

Well that would be the smartest way to do it. Then its only on when you want it to be, you dont have to touch the clutch if you dont want to and you dont have to have an ebrake held up. Simple as that.

I don't see how you could put a stuter box on a switch, like hand operated. My first gear is about a half second long, no way I could get it off before the shift to second.

What I would do is use the clutch switch, but hijack both leads. Run one to ground, and one to the sutterbox. There is your switched ground to activate it. The switch in stock configuration is also a switch to ground, but the system puts 12 volts on it (IIRC), so that is probably what you are measuring. Best thing to do is cut both leads so you know extactly what you have hooked up to them.

I don't see how you could put a stuter box on a switch, like hand operated. My first gear is about a half second long, no way I could get it off before the shift to second.

What I would do is use the clutch switch, but hijack both leads. Run one to ground, and one to the sutterbox. There is your switched ground to activate it. The switch in stock configuration is also a switch to ground, but the system puts 12 volts on it (IIRC), so that is probably what you are measuring. Best thing to do is cut both leads so you know extactly what you have hooked up to them.

Hahaha thanks alot Kevin. I know I can always depend on you! :iceslolan
I will give that a try and see how it works out. I still have about a week before I can try it, but I like to know how things work and how to do it before I install it.

I've been thinking, and I have may have gotten it wrong in my first post. The switch on the clutch gets 12v when its NOT engagged and the circut is broken once the clutch is engagged... Can someone confirm this?

So if thats the case, then that means Kevin your idea with the switch wouldnt work... Shit, I'm confused... lol

I believe the switch closes to ground when actuated. Disconnet the connectot, put an ohm meter on it, and actuate it, I believe you will find this is the case. It has been a very long time since I messed with it at all, especially since DSMlink uses the upper switch, which may be different, so I reserve the right to be wrong ;) You definitely want to unplug it before testing it though, since it pulls the ECU output to ground, which can be confusing for most poeple (more used to putting 12 volts on something with a switch, not ground).

Back to the switch idea, I came across an example of this at the SO. Joe Bucci runs something like this in his mid 10 second 14b/16g powered FWD 1g. The switch is on his steering wheel, and he can hold it as long as he thinks he needs to. In this case it can work, since your hand is on the wheel anyway. Interesting solution.

Thats what I was talking about. Company's make remote mounted switches (push button) like on steering wheels or shift knobs. I run the same type of switch on my shift knob so I can press it while shifting WOT. Works great with DSMlink, sets my shift point right where it needs to be and adds a little anti-lag on top of that in between shifts.